1998 100 series Electrical issues - ABS and rear locker lights illuminated, turn signal blown fuse... (1 Viewer)

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Sep 3, 2016
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3
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Location
Denver, CO
I've searched this board, the YouTubes and elsewhere to no avail. I believe I have 3 issues on our 1998 stock 100 with OE electric rear locker and 230k (she's a baby):

1 - crank no start condition. This was worst last winter after big spring snows. My mechanic cleaned the ignition switch, then I replaced the EFI/ECS fuse with a 30A (oe is 20A) after searching this board, and that issues has been at bay.

2 - turn signals blowing 15A fuse. Isolated to front right, replaced the bulb and was fine. For a bit. Then it did it again. Simply replacing the front right bulb solved the problem for a bit, so I haven't dug in.

3 - per my partner, the rear-locker (red) and ABS lights began flickering, then became steady. I gravel lot tested and the rear is not presently locked. Assuming the ABS is disabled, but, you know, we're from the 80's. My 60 didn't have ABS, so... you know. Functionality of the center and the rear locker are presently intact per my slow circle testing. My best guess is the sensor that is at the left lower part of the rear locker actuator on the front. Looks like a $75 switch; I'm always up for throwing at least 1 part at the vehicle.

Of note: the wiring harness to the rear diff was previously partially melted against the rear exhaust (not uncommon) and repaired by my normal mechanic. On inspection, the bracket that the "S"-shaped wiring and locker/ABS switch plug attach to had rusted and broken off, was hanging by the wires, so a short is not out of the question. Oddly, when driving a block to a neighbor's house to tinker, the ABS/RD lights flickered, and went out for a few moments, then came back on. They also would flicker or go out on firm braking/accel. Wiggling the wiring harness did not affect the lights nor did unplugging the sensor or jumping it.

At present, I have an appointment with a reputable indy (ATLR in Arvada/Denver) next Wednesday. Thought I'd throw it out to you guys to see if you can make any suggestions. I'm happy to pay to fix this thing... I usually give it the old college try first, but, I've been busy.

Incidentally, airing this down to 20# for jeep roads and moderate 4WD around Georgia Pass was a game changer. Amazing. Felt like I was driving a built Jeep.
 
I've searched this board, the YouTubes and elsewhere to no avail. I believe I have 3 issues on our 1998 stock 100 with OE electric rear locker and 230k (she's a baby):

1 - crank no start condition. This was worst last winter after big spring snows. My mechanic cleaned the ignition switch, then I replaced the EFI/ECS fuse with a 30A (oe is 20A) after searching this board, and that issues has been at bay.

2 - turn signals blowing 15A fuse. Isolated to front right, replaced the bulb and was fine. For a bit. Then it did it again. Simply replacing the front right bulb solved the problem for a bit, so I haven't dug in.

3 - per my partner, the rear-locker (red) and ABS lights began flickering, then became steady. I gravel lot tested and the rear is not presently locked. Assuming the ABS is disabled, but, you know, we're from the 80's. My 60 didn't have ABS, so... you know. Functionality of the center and the rear locker are presently intact per my slow circle testing. My best guess is the sensor that is at the left lower part of the rear locker actuator on the front. Looks like a $75 switch; I'm always up for throwing at least 1 part at the vehicle.

Of note: the wiring harness to the rear diff was previously partially melted against the rear exhaust (not uncommon) and repaired by my normal mechanic. On inspection, the bracket that the "S"-shaped wiring and locker/ABS switch plug attach to had rusted and broken off, was hanging by the wires, so a short is not out of the question. Oddly, when driving a block to a neighbor's house to tinker, the ABS/RD lights flickered, and went out for a few moments, then came back on. They also would flicker or go out on firm braking/accel. Wiggling the wiring harness did not affect the lights nor did unplugging the sensor or jumping it.

At present, I have an appointment with a reputable indy (ATLR in Arvada/Denver) next Wednesday. Thought I'd throw it out to you guys to see if you can make any suggestions. I'm happy to pay to fix this thing... I usually give it the old college try first, but, I've been busy.

Incidentally, airing this down to 20# for jeep roads and moderate 4WD around Georgia Pass was a game changer. Amazing. Felt like I was driving a built Jeep.
Hey, did you ever figure out #3? I had successfully searched for this a few months ago, but now I can not find the threads that were helpful to me. Hoping you found a solution to your problems!
 

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