For Sale 1997 LX450

Location

United States

SOLD SOLD SOLD as of 31 January....



1997 LX450 with factory lockers For Sale in Northern Virginia/DC Metro Area

202,500 miles

Well maintained, no major or unusual issues.

Vehicle has the 294 Option - Factory Locking Differentials! Everything works - I added the dash switch to be able to lock the center diff when in 4H. I just checked the function of everything yesterday. All three diffs lock and unlock easily, and all lights operate correctly. Transfer case shifts easily. Right after I bought it, I had to put in a new transfer case switch, and all is well since then.

Black with Silver/Grey Trim (FACTORY) No accidents or respray.

Oak interior, no rips, but two front seats are worn a bit and separating along seams. I just ordered a Wheelskins steering wheel cover and will put it on when it gets here.

Upgraded Stereo, Kenwood Bluetooth model. Original stereo head unit, sub woofer, and CD changer included.

It currently has Michelin LTX M/S tires, lots of tread on all tires, two tires are 14 months old, other two were on it when I bought it in Oct 13.

I replaced the PHH about 4 months ago, used Toyota Red coolant, no problems since then.

I was going to replace the A/C Expansion Valve and the Dryer, new parts on hand, never had time to do the work. A/C works well, I was just going to service it, see if the air box needed cleaning, etc.

It has some kind of aftermarket roof rack, installed long before I purchased the vehicle, there is no visible sign of rust at mounting points.

I removed the Viscous Coupler, because the "one wheel" test showed it to be bad, plus I had noticed some drive line binding at times. I still have it, included with other parts.

I wired in a Blue Sea fused power distribution box under the center console, with 2 of 8 slots being used, 1 for the phone mount/charger and one for the powered sub woofer I put in with the stereo upgrade. it uses 10ga wire directly to the battery, with another fuse there.

The power antenna is non-functional.

Vehicle is in Northern Virginia (Woodbridge)

I am selling the vehicle due to overseas assignment.

$6,500/OFFERS

CONTACT: iridium318@gmail.com

 

[ADHLX]

 

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[ADHLX]

Here are some undercarriage pics, to TRY to show the situation... there is no heavy rust on frame or body. Vehicle was in souther VA until last year.

 

[ADHLX]

I can work with buyer on delivery on central East Coast...

 

[dutch865]

looks great, nice price....!

 

[orttauq]

Is the Virginia Motor Vehicle Safety Inspection up to date?

 

[ADHLX]

Yes, Virginia Inspection good through Nov 2015......

 

[orttauq]

Thanks.

 

[ADHLX]

The LX is still for sale, new lower price: $5500/offers.

My deployment is approaching and I'd like to make a sale ASAP. By next week, I'll put it out to the larger market if no 'Mudders are currently interested in a 1997 LX with factory lockers.

 

[dutch865]

The LX is still for sale, new lower price: $5500/offers.

Holy s*** that's approaching ludicrous territory... I wish I was ready, I'd jump on this! GLWS man!

 

[DetroitDiesel]

The LX is still for sale, new lower price: $5500/offers.

My deployment is approaching and I'd like to make a sale ASAP. By next week, I'll put it out to the larger market if no 'Mudders are currently interested in a 1997 LX with factory lockers.

I'm new to 80s what does removing the viscous coupler do and is it an expensive fix? I bought a 95 and now my girlfriend wants one. Want to get her a lx. Lockers a bonus but this price is right.

 

[ADHLX]

OVER THE NEXT FEW POSTS, I WILL CUT AND PASTE IN QUESTIONS AND ANSWER THAT I HAVE GOTTEN FROM PEOPLE INQUIRING ABOUT THE VEHICLE. I DO THIS IN ORDER TO SHARE THE DISCUSSIONS WITH EVERYONE. HOPEFULLY, MOST QUESTIONS THAT PEOPLE HAVE WILL BE ANSWERED.

IN GENERAL, THIS IS A MOSTLY STOCK 1997 LX450 WITH NEARLY 203,000 MILES ON IT IN ITS 18+ YEARS. IT IS NOT BEAT UPON, TRASHED, CRUNCHED OR MUNCHED.

OTHER THAN SOME SURFACE RUST UNDERNEATH, IT IS RUST FREE..... NO HOLES OR BUBBLING IN PAINT OR ANY EVIDENCE OF RUST ANYTHERE THAT I HAVE FOUND.

I AM PRETTY CERTAIN IT NEVER WENT OFF-ROAD BEFORE I BOUGHT IT, AND I HAVE ONLY BEEN ABLE TO DO VERY LIMITED OFF-ROADING, BEING THAT I HAVE BEEN STUCK HERE ON THE EAST COAST WITH VERY HIGH POPULATION DENSITY AND TIGHTLY CONTROLLED PUBLIC LANDS SINCE I HAVE OWNED IT. I TOOK IT ON ONE EXCURSION ALONG THE TASKER'S GAP TRAIL IN FORT VALLEY, VA. I RATE THIS TRAIL ABOUT A 2 OR 3 OUT OF 10. THERE IS NO EVIDENCE OF ANY DAMAGE OR CONTACT ANYWHERE ON THE UNDER-CARRIAGE, AND THE RUNNING BOARDS ARE STRAIGHT AND UNDAMADGED. MY FEEL IS THAT THE VEHILCE WAS A FAMILY TRUXSTER BEFORE I BOUGHT IT.... USED TO HAUL KIDS AND TO TOW A BOAT ONCE IN A WHILE.

AS MENTIONED, I REMOVED THE VISCOUS COUPLER (VC) FROM THE VEHICLE. FOR THOSE WHO DON'T KNOW, THE VC SERVES TO GIVE SOME LIMITED SLIP FUNCTION TO THE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL OF THE VEHICLE USING FLUID SHEAR DYNAMICS. MOST "AWD" VEHICLES (LIKE AUDI QUATTRO'S) USE SOME VERSION OF THIS. ACCORDING TO MANY THREADS HERE ON IH8MUD, THE VISCOUS COUPLER CAN SIEZE UP DUE TO OVER HEATING OR OTHER FACTORS. BUT, THE BEAUTY IS, ON THESE VEHICLES, THE VC IS NOT NECESSARY, AND SOME SAY IT WAS ADDED JUST TO DAMPED SOME OF THE DRIVELINE LASH (CLUNKING THAT IS NORMAL ON VEHICLES WITH THE TYPE OF DRIVELINE THAT THE LC/LX HAVE.) AFTER I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE, I NOTICED SOME DRIVELINE BINDING WHEN ON HARD SURFACES.

I RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION HERE ON IH8MUD AND FOUND THE NUMEROUS THREADS DISCUSSING THINS PROBLEM. I FOLLOWED THE SUGGESTED METHOD TO TEST IT---- WHICH IS JACKING UP ON WHEEL, PUTTING THE VEHICLE IN "N" IN THE TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE AND SEEING IF THE RAISED WHEEL CAN BE TURNED EASILY.... IN MY CASE, THE ANSWER WAS NO.... SO, I REMOVED IT PER INSTRUCTIONS AND GUIDANCE I FOUND USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION HERE ON IH8MUD. I RESEALED THE TRANSFER CASE PER INSTRUCTIONS USING TOYOTA FIPG (FORM IN PLACE GASKET) MATERIAL, WHICH IS WHAT WAS USED AT THE FACTORY INSTEAD OF A NORMAL, OLD STYLE GASKET. I FOLLOWED THE GUIDANCE AND TIPS FOR THIS JOB THAT I FOUND USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION HERE ON IH8MUD.

THE VEHICLE IS STILL FULL-TIME AWD WITH THE VC REMOVED, AND IT DRIVES AND FUNCTIONS EXACLY THE SAME AS BEFORE...... MINUS THE BINDING I NOTICED, AND YES, WITH AN INCREASE IN CLUNKING IN SOME SITUATIONS.... BUT IT IS NOW ALMOST EXACLY LIKE MY 1989 FJ62 WAS, AND I PUT OVER 150,000 ON THAT VEHICLE, NEVER HAVING ONE BIT OF TROUBLE, EVEN WITH SOME CLUNKING. IT IS ABSOLUTELY NORMAL FOR THESE KINDS OF VEHICLES..... SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT THAN WHAT YOU WOULD HAVE ON A "SUV" STYLE VEHICLE THAT ISN'T AS CAPABLE OFF-ROAD AS A LC/LX IS. REMOVING THE VC HELPS THE DRIVELINE LAST LONGER, AND THE VEHICLE DRIVES AND FUNCTIONS THE SAME AS BEFORE.

ALL THREE FACTORY DIFFERENTIAL LOCKS WORKS CORRECTLY AND EASILY. I ADDED THE NON-US TOYOTA DASH SWITCH THAT PLUGS INTO THE FACTORY WIRING HARNESS THAT ALLOWS MANUAL LOCKING OF THE CENTER DIFFERENTIAL WITH THE TRANSFER CASE IN HIGH RANGE. I FOUND OUT ABOUT THIS SWITCH, HOW IT WORKS, AND HOW TO CONNECT TO THIS UNUSED PLUG IN THE FACTORY HARNESS USING THE SEARCH FUNCTION HERE ON IH8MUD.

WHEN I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE, THE SYSTEM DID NOT WORK, BUT IT ONLY NEEDED A NEW DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH TO THEN BEGIN FULLY CORRECT FUNCTION. I CYCLE IT ALL ABOUT ONCE A MONTH TO KEEP IT ALL FUNCTIONING.


SOME OTHER QUESTIONS:


1. Do you have any more pictures of the interior?

YES, I WILL POST THEM SHORTLY. GENERALLY, THE INTERIOR IS IN GREAT SHAPE. THERE ARE NO RIPS, HOLES, TEARS, BIG STAINS, CIGARETTE BURNS, FOOD AND DRINK SPILLAGES ( I CLEANED THE ONES FROM PREVIOUS OWNERS SINCE I HAVE OWNED IT) OR DAMAGES.

2. Are third row seats included? YES

3. When was the last front axle rebuild? UNKNOWN, SOMETIME BEFORE I OWNED IT. I HAVE GREASED IT A COUPLE OF TIMES, AND THE SEALS LOOK FINE, WITH NO MAJOR LEAKAGE GOING ON.

4. When you did the PHH, was it because it failed? NO..... MY BROTHER ALSO OWNS AN LX AND HIS WENT BAD, SO I DECIDED TO DO MINE AS PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE, PLUS, I WANTED TO FLUSH AND REPLACE THE COOLANT. I USED THE PROPER TOYOTA RED COOLANT AND DISTILLED WATER MIX WHEN REFILLING.

5. Any overheating issues or coolant use? NO.... AND NO MIXING OF COOLANT AND OIL IN EITHER THE RADIATOR OR CRANKCASE...... I HAVE NO INFORMATION ON WHETHER OR NOT THE HEAD GASKET HAS BEEN REPLACED, BUT I HAVE NO EVIDENCE OF PROBLEMS WITH IT EITHER.

6. Anything else I should be concerned with that doesn’t work/needs PM on the truck? SINCE POSTING FOR SALE, I CHANGED OIL AND FILTER AND REPLACED CAP, ROTOR, WIRES AND PLUGS.

MORE IN A MOMENT...

 

[ADHLX]

very nice looking rig. How is the rust situation on the undercarriage...





I haven't found any.... rear parking brake was seized up when I bought it, but that is the only evidence of anything. I bought it from down in the VA Beach area, where I think it spent most of it's life.... so probably not much road salt. There isn't any body or frame rust that I have found....

 

[ADHLX]

I noticed you've only owned it for a bit more than a year--do you have any service records from the previous owner(s). Have you pulled a carfax?
Can you tell me more about the viscous coupler removal? This would be my first LX/LC--what causes them to fail and how is drivability affected by its removal?
Any maintenance issues needing attention?


Yes, still available.

No, I bought it from a dealer, so none of that was available. They did give me a Carfax when I bought it, but I don't have it now.

If you go on IH8MUD and do a search, there are several threads with pretty in depth discussions about the Viscous Couplers, with many people saying Toyota shouldn't have even put them in.... It is still Full-Time 4WD in normal driving, and since this one was locked up, it actually drives smoother without it....

Maintenance is pretty much up to date, but I recently discovered some leakage at the outer seal on the rear axle, driver's side..... With the Full Floating axles, it is a pretty easy job.... Parts for both sides are about $75 or so, and a couple of hours of work....

I just don't have time to fix that... My deployment is fast approaching, so it would be something for new owner to deal with. It is drivable as is, even for long distances; I would just check rear differential oil level before going for anything more than a few hundred miles...

 

[ADHLX]

ANOTHER SET OF QUESTIONS ABOUT THE VC AND THE OTHER ISSUES:


Title is clear and in hand, so no issues for quick transaction

Removing the VC made it feel about like my FJ62 felt.... a bit of clunking in some situations, but not bad. Yes, many 'Mudders say that the VC was built into the vehicles to stop that.... but it isn't a big deal to me....

I do as much of the work as I can myself. I used to own a FJ62, drove that for 10+ years with the same mindset. The parts for these vehicles, generally speaking, are not overly expensive, with some exceptions... they are "complicated but simple" to work on, meaning, they have a lot of modern features and conveniences, but underneath, they are pretty robust and straightforward.... as an example, this axle seal is a relatively simple job, but it can take some time.... You can find at least two threads on IH8MUD FJ80 pages that will walk you through the whole procedure.... BUT, if you pay someone else to do it, it gets expensive real fast at $75+ per hour that places charge, at least around here... I think the only way to realistically own one this old is to be able to do most of the work yourself, or be willing to learn. IH8MUD is an awesome resource.... I think that paying people to work on these gets too expensive too quickly...

As far as a PPI, no problem, I'd be glad to take it to someone for that....but you ARE looking at a vehicle that is 18+ years old with approx. 203,000 miles on it.... so they will surely find lots of stuff..... For me, I use it as a daily driver, and have made a couple of longer trips in it, and used it for camping and light off-roading. It has been completely reliable, and I have never had any problems. I just did a rotor, cap, wires, plugs replacement, and changed the oil and filter. It DOES have some leaks, one, the seal mentioned, and some oil on the front of the engine, maybe oil pump gasket, from what is mentioned on IH8MUD. BUT, it doesn't leak enough to cause drips under the vehicle in normal use.

I do not know it the head gasket has been done, but I see no symptoms of problems in that area.

I recently replaced the "Pesky Heater Hose," using the fancy clamps that people recommend, and I used proper Toyota Red coolant to refill it.

Brake pads are all new, and I replaced the rear shoes and discs as well.

ETC.

You should have no problem driving it MANY miles as is, and then you can look at going through things once you are home and can deal with local folks. Prices for ANYTHING around here can be shocking....

 

[ADHLX]

I'm new to 80s what does removing the viscous coupler do and is it an expensive fix? I bought a 95 and now my girlfriend wants one. Want to get her a lx. Lockers a bonus but this price is right.

A new VC, if they are even available, is about $1200. There are a bunch of threads about the whys and hows of removal to be found here on IH8MUD. Many people take them out and leave them out permanently.

The vehicle is still full-time AWD/4WD, and the only difference is the possibility of some clunking in some situations. Other than that, all function is the same.

The VC just gave the center differential some limited slip function, kind of like Audi Quattros. It drives fine without it, and all 4WD functions the same.

 

[ADHLX]

I'm new to 80s what does removing the viscous coupler do and is it an expensive fix? I bought a 95 and now my girlfriend wants one. Want to get her a lx. Lockers a bonus but this price is right.

I don't think your 95 even has one in it from the factory.... they only put them on for a couple of years.... so, my '97 without the VC drives and functions pretty much exactly like your '95.... if I have it right that yours didn't come with one....