1997 LX450 resto build (1 Viewer)

[MrMacdugal]

Hard to say not knowing. I'll maintain these seem to be original color to the wheel, but I cannot say for sure.

 

[MrMacdugal]

delete

 

[jonheld]

That wheel design was standard on 4Runners and 91/92 FJ80s, but they were always 15x7. I have never seen that wheel in a 16" let alone a 16x6. One of the parts professionals would be able to tell you what market they came from.

 

[MrMacdugal]

Time to update a little:
Ordered a bunch of stuff from Wits-End(absolutely love everything about this family outfit)duh. I don't care how long I have to wait for an order to ship, the man is busy!
Came in when it came in, then I brought it to my friend to install. the list went as follows
Normal front axle service kit
New Japanese Birfields(not from wits-end)
1FZ-FE Engine Little Hose Kit
1FZ-FE Radiator Hose Kit
80 Series 1FZ Complete Tuneup Kit
80 Series 1FZ Curved Heater Hose Kit
OEM Vacuum Hose Kit- 3.5mm
OEM Washable Cyclonic Air Filter
PCV Valve and gasket
Also did redundant oil&filter change

The mechanic also replaced a few other hoses on the firewall he decided could be replaced. He also noticed the hose to the rear heater was just kinked and blocked off. So if what tied it off came loose, I was loosing all my coolant.

Some things he did, I really liked. Others I'm not so crazy about. I hate when mechanics don't listen to what WE, the customer, wants. Never give back unused parts that the vehicle owner knows should have been used on a particular repair. Better off throwing them out than giving them back if it'something the vehicle owner cannot see. but I digress. Looks like I'll be changing the remaining hoses myself. The majority of the work done were things I do not have time for, or don't want to do...There I said it
Noticed today I need a fan clutch. I can stop the fan with my hand. IT was looking pretty slow, so it tickled it and it came to a stop. Add that to the list.

The main issue I was after fixing is the front axle felt like it was binding in turns. The front birfields were toasted and making all sorts of clacking sounds like a game of marbles was being played nest to my front wheels. That feels to have been resolved, but still feels like the AWD is crabbing a little or something is stiff, like the Center Diff is locked in HI although that's not necessarily possible. When I take tight turns on pavement like into a parking spot it feels like I'm running 4WD on pavement, if you know what I mean. Unless there's some way the Center diff remained locked after going into LO and back into HI, this should not be possible. I feel as though its felt front and rear. I did a lot of stop and go with turns on some fresh packed gravel. My tracks honestly look like equal force is being applied to all 4 tires through the turns.... I do believe that should not really be the case in HI. IDK, but its annoying. That said, this could be how it should be. This is the first and only 80 I have owned or driven.
I engaged LO and the ABS and center diff lock light come on as expected. It shifts in and out of LO, N, HI pretty easily. I might just be oversensitive to the feeling given through turns with this vehicle?

 

[ppc]

Time to update a little:
Ordered a bunch of stuff from Wits-End(absolutely love everything about this family outfit)duh. I don't care how long I have to wait for an order to ship, the man is busy!
Came in when it came in, then I brought it to my friend to install. the list went as follows
Normal front axle service kit
New Japanese Birfields(not from wits-end)
1FZ-FE Engine Little Hose Kit
1FZ-FE Radiator Hose Kit
80 Series 1FZ Complete Tuneup Kit
80 Series 1FZ Curved Heater Hose Kit
OEM Vacuum Hose Kit- 3.5mm
OEM Washable Cyclonic Air Filter
PCV Valve and gasket
Also did redundant oil&filter change

The mechanic also replaced a few other hoses on the firewall he decided could be replaced. He also noticed the hose to the rear heater was just kinked and blocked off. So if what tied it off came loose, I was loosing all my coolant.

Some things he did, I really liked. Others I'm not so crazy about. I hate when mechanics don't listen to what WE, the customer, wants. Never give back unused parts that the vehicle owner knows should have been used on a particular repair. Better off throwing them out than giving them back if it'something the vehicle owner cannot see. but I digress. Looks like I'll be changing the remaining hoses myself. The majority of the work done were things I do not have time for, or don't want to do...There I said it
Noticed today I need a fan clutch. I can stop the fan with my hand. IT was looking pretty slow, so it tickled it and it came to a stop. Add that to the list.

The main issue I was after fixing is the front axle felt like it was binding in turns. The front birfields were toasted and making all sorts of clacking sounds like a game of marbles was being played nest to my front wheels. That feels to have been resolved, but still feels like the AWD is crabbing a little or something is stiff, like the Center Diff is locked in HI although that's not necessarily possible. When I take tight turns on pavement like into a parking spot it feels like I'm running 4WD on pavement, if you know what I mean. Unless there's some way the Center diff remained locked after going into LO and back into HI, this should not be possible. I feel as though its felt front and rear. I did a lot of stop and go with turns on some fresh packed gravel. My tracks honestly look like equal force is being applied to all 4 tires through the turns.... I do believe that should not really be the case in HI. IDK, but its annoying. That said, this could be how it should be. This is the first and only 80 I have owned or driven.
I engaged LO and the ABS and center diff lock light come on as expected. It shifts in and out of LO, N, HI pretty easily. I might just be oversensitive to the feeling given through turns with this vehicle?
View attachment 2857468View attachment 2857469View attachment 2857470View attachment 2857471

If both the inlet and outlet to the rear heater were removed or blocked then there is no risk of losing coolant causing a problem. The pictures look like both have been done.

Your remaining problem with the feeling the CDL is still locked most likely is the vicious coupler in the rear of the transfer case seizing up.

 

[MrMacdugal]

Common sense is telling me that I am missing the T and a hose or two. I’m still getting acquainted with the whole 1FZ world. I’ll replace and go from there.
As for the viscous coupler seizing, is it possible with some “exercising” of the transfer case from hi, n & lo that it could free up? I was initially thinking this could be the case but caused by some sort of stuck solenoid perhaps?? I’m certainly goin to give it a go. It has probably been in and out of lo more than a handful of times in its lifetime

 

[ppc]

Common sense is telling me that I am missing the T and a hose or two. I’m still getting acquainted with the whole 1FZ world. I’ll replace and go from there.
As for the viscous coupler seizing, is it possible with some “exercising” of the transfer case from hi, n & lo that it could free up? I was initially thinking this could be the case but caused by some sort of stuck solenoid perhaps?? I’m certainly goin to give it a go. It has probably been in and out of lo more than a handful of times in its lifetime

The rear heater lines may have been taken out of the system for a reason. In the rust belt it's common that the metal tubes may have failed due to salts on the roads. The metal lines can't be replaced without pulling the motor or trans. A few have run rubber hoses instead. Not sure of the difficulties in doing that.

The viscous coupler is a mechanical device, no electronics, in play for High or Low range, can be removed without much impact. Only the 93-97 years came with them to reduce driveline slack and clunks . You can do a search to find more information about it but it acts somewhat like a limited slip differential using a viscous fluid in place of clutches. There are threads documenting its removal as well as how to diagnose if it has failed, one of many is: Viscous Coupler Delete Questions. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/viscous-coupler-delete-questions.1235462/

 

[MrMacdugal]

The rear heater lines may have been taken out of the system for a reason. In the rust belt it's common that the metal tubes may have failed due to salts on the roads. The metal lines can't be replaced without pulling the motor or trans. A few have run rubber hoses instead. Not sure of the difficulties in doing that.

The viscous coupler is a mechanical device, no electronics, in play for High or Low range, can be removed without much impact. Only the 93-97 years came with them to reduce driveline slack and clunks . You can do a search to find more information about it but it acts somewhat like a limited slip differential using a viscous fluid in place of clutches. There are threads documenting its removal as well as how to diagnose if it has failed, one of many is: Viscous Coupler Delete Questions. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/viscous-coupler-delete-questions.1235462/

I read through the link. It seems to be that,
A. this may be my issue and it can be addressed relatively easily.
B. If I remove the VC am I removing the ability for the vehicle to lock the center diff in LO? It seems that is not the case. Or, I misunderstood and once the VC is removed I would need to install the CDL switch in order to lock the center diff(and can then lock it in HI&LO?(More reading lead me to discover it will still lock. The VC's primary function was to eliminate drive line clunk and slop...) DOES CLUNK AND SLoP BECOME VERY OBVIOUS? Like shifting a tired FJ62?
C. Or, third theory... its just not required, kind of like a persons appendix. All the other functions still work without it.

Last thought.... Now that my rear heater has clearly been bypassed... That PHH is no longer an X factor. Doesnt need to be replaced since no coolant is flowing through it. Right?

 

[jht3]

Last thought.... Now that my rear heater has clearly been bypassed... That PHH is no longer an X factor. Doesnt need to be replaced since no coolant is flowing through it. Right?

nope. PHH is still in the loop. your REAR heater has been bypassed but not the primary heater. the heater hose under the throttle body is also still in the loop.

it looks like your rear heater hoses are still exposed. when i recently did this i capped both hard lines on the firewall with heater bypass caps i found at Napa. they aren't vacuum caps but much heavier duty and just for this application...i think 5/8" sized. i'd cap them if i were you, and you are like me and may want to plumb it back in one day. no need to let road debris or bugs get in there.

 

[ppc]

The VC's primary function was to eliminate drive line clunk and slop...) DOES CLUNK AND SLoP BECOME VERY OBVIOUS? Like shifting a tired FJ62?
C. Or, third theory... its just not required, kind of like a persons appendix. All the other functions still work without it.

Maybe someone else can answer to the level of clunk and slop if the VC is deleted more specifically but the 91-92 never came with it nor do the 98 and above. Most guys just deleted it and don't look back..