Builds 1997 Lexus LX450 - Rexus the 500 HP LS SWAPPED LX450 (1 Viewer)

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what @bloc said. The gm computer uses the ISS and VSS to ensure there is no slippage in the tranny, and as speed output if you are ditching the toyota gauges.

My fear of the DD "magnifier" is error from "upscaling" the signal. I can't remember what the electrical signal from the toyota VSS on the tcase is, 2 or 4 pulses per rev, but you're looking at 10x or 20x any error. I'm not sure that this is a real concern.

But, with the tone ring being a $35 part and someone like me being able to tear apart and put back together a tranny in a long saturday, you can probably install the tone ring w/ new clutches in 8 to 10 hours if you've never been in a tranny before, less time obviously if you have done this type of work before. For less than $150 you can have a quasi rebuilt tranny, properly do the job and you get a look inside your used transmission.

Just double checking and a dumb queation, the donor vehicle was a 4x4, correct?
 
Donor vehicle was a 4x4

The trans has been gone through and upgraded appropriately with new clutches and seals

I spoke with Dakota digital today and they say no issues up converting from the 4 pulse signal to the gm they said as it's 4000 pulses to every mile it will be plenty accurate

I ended up pulling trigger and ordering a racepak iq3s today

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I have been looking at new steering wheels im sure there's one out there with it hahaha
 
so I removed the rear heater lines, I have new ones Ill put back on tomorrow, as I enjoy being able to heat the cab up in -40C hahahahaha

for anyone questioning them, bypass them!!!! I literally touched it, and the heater hose pipe broke in half, I was like ummmm that sucks
also I built my fish plates and gussets for the motor mounts that will more than likely be welded on tomorrow, hopefully, install the torque converter and flex plate tomorrow as well, to prep for the engine installation

I also opted to remove the factory heat shielding on the firewall and install some from DEI, in -20C its tricky, I just suggest having a nice propane heater and under the hood tarped like I have at the moment :p

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the frigid weather has slowed things down dramatically, I have areal good idea of my plan forward on my wiring once i get home in 2 weeks and put the motor in its home for good

however I need some input....... starting wire to the GM harness

a couple places to steal it, I just ordered a GM Park neutral switch wiring plugs as my harness did not come with it, and now I really dont feel like messing with the reverse light wiring, so Im putting it back in, not hard, however, this is my dilema

Do i steal from IL1 Pin 15..... and feed that over, this is after the Park/Neutral switch and theft deterrent ecu of steal from Il2 pin 1 and steal that output direct from the ignition switch, this does allow me to bypass a the Park/Neutral switch and theft detterent, However concerns are the Theft detterent may go hay wire. I have look a little close

I am open to suggestions here! Maybe i'm missing something, if so let me know and ill gladly listen


Plan to drive the GM PCM is off IG2 of the ignition switch as the factory ECM does not need it anymore, more than likely just off EA2 Pin 1 and remove the branch I7 to the Igniter, and drive a relay so the PCM has its own fuse off the battery

I also mapped out what I need for wiring from behind the dash for my new cluster this should speed things up, I think what im going to do, is depin, the connectors of what im stealing, and shoving the old connectors behind incase I ever sell and the new owner would like the factory cluster
 
Per my notes Il1 pin 15 won't get the job done. It is where the successful start signal (after park/neutral interlock) goes back to the dash harness for the ECU and instrument cluster. IIRC IL1 pin 21 B/W is straight from the ignition switch start position. But it will bypass park/neutral interlock. And won't send start signal to cluster for whatever purposes Toyota deemed necessary.

My spreadsheets show IL2 pin 1 being blank.. but the way I compiled them I could have missed something. Don't have the wiring diagrams in front of me at the moment.
 
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Just looking at the ewd

What i thought looked like IL2 was I12 lol And yes IL1 pin 21 works yes

And if you lool yes il1 15 goes the ecm as feedback that the vehicle started , it is spliced the starter on wire from the park/neutral switch. So in theory should work

I am strongly thinking of going that way, and just stealing the wire from the old starter and removing the splice

The diagram descriptions says

" contacts 6-5 on the p/n switch close with the a/t shifter lever in p or neutral" which is directly tied to il 15 and b1 on the starter

100% agree the notes from the ECM say starter signal circuit, voltage applied to the starter motor during cranking

In this case its a straight feed to say " hey im starting" in this case its the same voltage

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Ok, just clarifying that you couldn't get the starter to run by feeding it 12v from IL1 pin 15. At least not with most of the Toyota harness hacked out, and specifically the gear indicator.
 
From what the harness is doing (been lookong at it this morning) no i dont think so

My plan is at the moment to steal starter wire and getting rid of the splice
 
been a little quiet around waiting for warmer weather and gathering more parts.... but things should be moving forward a little more swiftly over the next month :p

I did manage to get the dash mocked/built, some clean up work and paint to do and add a gauge to the left and Bob's your uncle (not mine though, I dont have an uncle bob :p)

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thinking of popping this on the left

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Been a little busy"ish" but making some headway before i head up north for 2 weeks

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its been a LONG time since I updated but its been a BUSY BUSY BUSY summer, but heres some goodies

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found some gross wiring in the process i didnt know about
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mounted my pcm where the ABS pump used to be
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gm 1 ton brake booster i went with new, than a willwood brake master, actually quite simple, I decided to ditch the ABS while in the process :p
 
And this why these projects are money pits hahaha

Another 50 dollars down the drain today in getting a couple adapters for my brake system

Willwood is still stuck in their imperial ways...... So from 1/2"-20 to 3/8"-16 to m10x1.0

I really didn't feel like re flaring my factory lines
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gm 1 ton brake booster i went with new, than a willwood brake master, actually quite simple, I decided to ditch the ABS while in the process :p

Care to share specific part/manufacture numbers pls ?

My next project, very soon, is converting to hydroboost. I'm so done messing with the factory brake system, nothing seems to work and I think I've tried all the options and ideas that have been kicked about on MUD. I ditched the ABS as well.

Thanks
 
Care to share specific part/manufacture numbers pls ?

My next project, very soon, is converting to hydroboost. I'm so done messing with the factory brake system, nothing seems to work and I think I've tried all the options and ideas that have been kicked about on MUD. I ditched the ABS as well.

Thanks

Youll need
Ac Delco Power Brake Booster - 1780867
Willwood 26-8555 (stick with at minimum 1" bore) there are couple oddities just when your ordering you need to ensure they know its a GM hydroboost booster and theyll send you the right stuff
You need to fab a custom firewall plate
threaded rod to go onto your brake booster I honestly cant remeber where I got this, and than a couple adapter to to the brake pedal

After that you'll need to redo your entire hose system, you'll need to plum the outlet of you power steering pump to the booster, than the outlet to your steering box. Theres an outlet for your booster than needs to be either tee'd into you existing returning tubing OR, you replace your reservoir (99% more than likely going to need to in order to have fluid readily available PSC-SR146 would be desirable) AND than to top it off if you havent reworked your cooling on your power steering you'll want to do that too


Now is the factory power steering pump capable of keeping up to this demand, I dont know..... but its worth the shot I guess. Than theres the whole did it actually improve braking power...... I know this is just stage 1 for myself as I wait for the keyed knuckles from front range offroad to upgrade to some serious braking power up front, the rear is still going to take some work......
 
Youll need
Ac Delco Power Brake Booster - 1780867
Willwood 26-8555 (stick with at minimum 1" bore) there are couple oddities just when your ordering you need to ensure they know its a GM hydroboost booster and theyll send you the right stuff
You need to fab a custom firewall plate
threaded rod to go onto your brake booster I honestly cant remeber where I got this, and than a couple adapter to to the brake pedal

After that you'll need to redo your entire hose system, you'll need to plum the outlet of you power steering pump to the booster, than the outlet to your steering box. Theres an outlet for your booster than needs to be either tee'd into you existing returning tubing OR, you replace your reservoir (99% more than likely going to need to in order to have fluid readily available PSC-SR146 would be desirable) AND than to top it off if you havent reworked your cooling on your power steering you'll want to do that too


Now is the factory power steering pump capable of keeping up to this demand, I dont know..... but its worth the shot I guess. Than theres the whole did it actually improve braking power...... I know this is just stage 1 for myself as I wait for the keyed knuckles from front range offroad to upgrade to some serious braking power up front, the rear is still going to take some work......

Perfect, thanks so much !!!
 

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