1997 Land Cruiser Intermittent "Stall" EGR related? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Aug 6, 2021
Threads
3
Messages
15
Location
Alpine TX
Eight years ago this identical symptom was cured by eventually replacing:

EGR valve assembly (25620-66011)

Vacuum Switch Valve (90910-12079)

EGR Vacuum Modulator (25870-66011)

This was easily the most difficult maintenance issue to have diagnosed that I have ever experienced. Now that it has returned, I am questioning why three parts would fail simultaneously. If they were all $20 parts I would just have my current mechanic replace them and move on. He also feels that something just is not right.

This only occurs at highways speeds and seems be less frequent under 65 mph. Most of occurrences are extremely short duration, initially feeling like a hiccup or perhaps something was run over. Perhaps every fifth time it will seem as though the engine quits or as if your cruise control shut off. I don't recall seeing any dash lights come on. It might last for 5 seconds, but it seems a lot longer.

This recent occurrence began about ten miles down the highway and continued for about another ten miles. I turned back for home and only occurred once in twenty miles and I noticed that I had let it creep up towards 70mph. Cruise control was never on.

Another thing that makes me question this is that this has happened twice to me now, and I have not been able to find anyone having similar problems.

Any insight anyone might have will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance and have a good weekend.

 
If I had this problem, I would start looking at the fuel system (or maybe plugs, wires, etc) prior to going down the EGR path.
 
Which year/model 80 series do you have? Is the check engine light on? Any codes (misfires)? Any recent work done, anyone messing around in the engine compartment?

FWIW many of us have had non-working EGR systems for years, and some have removed their EGR systems entirely, but the engine still runs fine.
 
It's a 1997. No engine light, so have not checked for codes.

No one messing around under the hood. Odd that it reoccurred after 8 years.

It was the third mechanic who eventually replaced these three parts at the recommendation of the dealer.
 
Thought I would provide an update. Ran four errands locally with the first being Autozone. No stored codes. No incidents what so ever.

Eight years ago my first stop was with my regular mechanic. I trust him 100%, but his repair did not work and was not cheap. He really had no plan B, so I got a second opinion. The next guy was sure it was the computer, it was not, not cheap either. The final guy must have taken it as a personal challenge. He kept it for some time and drove it personally, even had to gas it up. Ended up charging me only an hour's labor.

At that point I was super happy to have a vehicle that worked again. Never questioned the likelihood of three parts failing. I can understand a dealer's mentality of replacing everything.

I am far from mechanically inclined, but it makes me wonder if some connection, or the like, was made good during the installation process and now has loosened or become fouled again.

Thanks for reading this.
 
Maybe worth checking the main engine harness where it runs close to the EGR hot pipe. If it has been touching the pipe then expect some damaged wires in the harness. Not sure what runs through the harness that would cause complete stall symptoms but the fuel injectors feeds are there and i guess a few disconnecting would feel like a stall.
 
I would start by replacing the fusible links. Cheap ( < $20 ), and is an item you want to periodically replace anyway and their failure is consistent with your symptoms.
 
Eight years ago this identical symptom was cured by eventually replacing:

EGR valve assembly (25620-66011)

Vacuum Switch Valve (90910-12079)

EGR Vacuum Modulator (25870-66011)

This was easily the most difficult maintenance issue to have diagnosed that I have ever experienced. Now that it has returned, I am questioning why three parts would fail simultaneously. If they were all $20 parts I would just have my current mechanic replace them and move on. He also feels that something just is not right.

This only occurs at highways speeds and seems be less frequent under 65 mph. Most of occurrences are extremely short duration, initially feeling like a hiccup or perhaps something was run over. Perhaps every fifth time it will seem as though the engine quits or as if your cruise control shut off. I don't recall seeing any dash lights come on. It might last for 5 seconds, but it seems a lot longer.

This recent occurrence began about ten miles down the highway and continued for about another ten miles. I turned back for home and only occurred once in twenty miles and I noticed that I had let it creep up towards 70mph. Cruise control was never on.

Another thing that makes me question this is that this has happened twice to me now, and I have not been able to find anyone having similar problems.

Any insight anyone might have will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance and have a good weekend.


This may be overkill, but here's the list of T parts I compiled/ordered sifting through the mound of ih8mud data for egr/vacuum. Please add/edit as you see fit.

Gracias.

25620-66011EGR valve assembly
90910-12079Vacuum switch valve
25870-66011EGR vacuum modulator
16261-66040Water bypass hose
16264-66021Water bypass hose
16267-66020Water bypass hose
25695-66010EGR vacuum hose
90917-10049Check valve
90980-11153Connector housing
90413-04019Three way
90910-12043Vacuum switch valve
90999-92006Vacuum hose
90999-92007Vacuum hose
90925-03192Vacuum control valve
22271-66010Throttle body gasket
17179-66010Intake manifold gasket
17171-66010Intake manifold gasket
25627-66010EGR valve gasket
44773-60150Brake booster vacuum hose
90480-24015Check valve grommet (brakes
44730-28010Brake booster check valve
90999-92003Hose vacuum (I think you can order multiple quantities of this to cover most of the vacuum hoses)
90999-92004Hose vacuum
90999-92008Hose vacuum
95337-06020Hose fuel
95333-06010Hose fuel (100cm)
25701-66011Vacuum control valve
 
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Even a poor/loose battery connection that's briefly losing contact can cause odd symptoms like the cruise control disconnecting. Drove me nuts once until I started over by checking the basics. Replaced the original negative battery terminal which had become deformed over the years and wouldn't get any tighter no matter how much I tried to tighten the bolt for the terminal.
 
Thank you all! Thought I would provide an update.

My mechanic was finally able to look at my vehicle yesterday afternoon, right before beer-thirty. I had printed out every comment on this thread for him. He said he had gone through the list and could not find anything, so I just walked over to pick it up.

As I got there he was closing the hood, and said he just found a fusible link that looked like it needed replacing and crossed his fingers. I asked what it went to, but he said he had not traced it.

Twenty-five miles on the highway this morning with zero issues. I started experiencing a couple glitches in town after the incident, so the problem was probably getting worse rather just disappearing on it's own. With any luck, I am good to go.

Again, thanks to all. This forum is awesome. A godsend to someone like me.
 
Good to hear the cause of the stalling may have been identified by replacing the fusible links.

There could be reasons that the links failed. If the link was just beat up it could be that it was under strain or was suffering from abrasion. Are the holes it passes through in the battery box protected by grommets and is there sufficient slack in the links? Is the battery secured so it can't move around pulling on the links?

If the link failed by excess current - melted/burned then I would inspect the main engine wiring harness where it passes by the EGR for a possible short. Even when the outside insulation looks OK open it up and check for damaged wires. If everything is OK, bundle back up and cover it with some heat protective wrap.
 
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Good to hear the cause of the stalling may have been identified by replacing the fusible links.

There could be reasons that the links failed. If the link was just beat up it could be that it was under strain or was suffering from abrasion. Are the holes it passes through in the battery box protected by grommets and is there sufficient slack in the links? Is the battery secured so it can't move around pulling on the links?

If the link failed by excess current - melted/burned then I would inspect the main engine wiring harness where it passes by the EGR for a possible short. Even when the outside insulation looks OK open it up and check for damaged wires. If everything is OK, bundle back up and cover it with some heat protective wrap.

I never saw where it came from, but I did see it in his hand. Looked old an brittle, like plastic that had been lying out in the sun.
 

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