1997 fj80 front axle (1 Viewer)

[eimkeith]

So I'm going to have a lot of 1997 fj80 stuff for sale both axles w/ factor lockers I have manual hubs for it and hellfire knuckles all the arms and sway bars can go with then also. I will get pics and get it all posted in the next day or so

I may be interested in that front axle, have you listed that stuff yet?

 

[jaybe2]

I have decided to go with a later model 6 liter and a 6L90 trans with a np205 transfer case. The 6L90 has a 4.27 first gear and a .67 overdrive with the 5.43 gears and 40 inch tires I think it will be a good combo for how I will use this rig

 

[Broski]

I would be interested in the the bead locks, let me know

 

[jaybe2]

I would be interested in the the bead locks, let me know

Keeping the bead locks

 

[Broski]

Keeping the bead locks

thought you were going with tons ?

 

[weigellj]

Honestly, I'd run the toyota axle's and if you have to down the road do the 60's, I'm doing the almost same thing as you but putting a Jeep TJ body on the 80 frame and axles and 4.10 gears and eventually 40's - Drivetrain will be a 350 chevy, chevy auto and NP205 and probably a doubler down the road. If the adapter to go to the 80 case wasn't over a grand, I'd use that as my tcase.

Here is My theory
I run a heavy 80 now with E-locked 4.10 front and rear axles and 37" tires on Steel DIY Beadlocks and low Tcase gear set. Granted, I wheel in WI so it isn't like rock crawling out west.
I used to break birfs almost every year until I did the following.

Truss the front Birfs by the knuckles (My knuckles had a 3 degree difference (looking at the front of the rig) from being bent from bouncing/Jumping on both front tires from top to bottom of tire).
Turn the steering stops out as far as you can. Also Truss or plate the steering stops if they are bent.
Go easy on the skinny pedal and don't bounce it or jump it (granted I am still not easy on the pedal).
Reverse at high speeds/skinny pedal isn't your friend.

Knock on wood, but since I've did the combo of bracing the knuckle and turning out the steering stops, I've had pretty good luck on stock birfs with hundreds of thousands of miles on them and I don't "baby" my rig.

If they break, I'll use my spares until I have the change saved up for the RCV's

 

[jaybe2]

Honestly, I'd run the toyota axle's and if you have to down the road do the 60's, I'm doing the almost same thing as you but putting a Jeep TJ body on the 80 frame and axles and 4.10 gears and eventually 40's - Drivetrain will be a 350 chevy, chevy auto and NP205 and probably a doubler down the road. If the adapter to go to the 80 case wasn't over a grand, I'd use that as my tcase.

Here is My theory
I run a heavy 80 now with E-locked 4.10 front and rear axles and 37" tires on Steel DIY Beadlocks and low Tcase gear set. Granted, I wheel in WI so it isn't like rock crawling out west.
I used to break birfs almost every year until I did the following.

Truss the front Birfs by the knuckles (My knuckles had a 3 degree difference (looking at the front of the rig) from being bent from bouncing/Jumping on both front tires from top to bottom of tire).
Turn the steering stops out as far as you can. Also Truss or plate the steering stops if they are bent.
Go easy on the skinny pedal and don't bounce it or jump it (granted I am still not easy on the pedal).
Reverse at high speeds/skinny pedal isn't your friend.

Knock on wood, but since I've did the combo of bracing the knuckle and turning out the steering stops, I've had pretty good luck on stock birfs with hundreds of thousands of miles on them and I don't "baby" my rig.

If they break, I'll use my spares until I have the change saved up for the RCV's

Right now I have a 4l80 trans in this and the adapter for the fj 80 case was just a little over 500 from marks
we plan to tow this all around the country behind our rv and we don't want to start breaking things 2000 miles from home so we are going to build t the best our wallet will allow

 

[weigellj]

Whats the secret to getting the adapter for $500 from Marks? Online I see its north of $950 plus shipping - I'm guessing you got it used? If you are interested in selling the adapter, let me know via PM

Flat towing it behind RV or Trailer it?

I've got a buddy with a dodge dakota buggy thing with a very healthy 440 Motor and 42" pitbulls running on a Dana60 that is beefed will all the things that can be done (chromoly 35 spline shafts) and he still breaks ujoints and shafts from time to time and has taken out a ring and pinion as well. Rear 14 bolt has never given him any problems in 10+ years of wheeling. Seems to me when the ujoint or shaft does go, its in a spot on pretty big rocks and the traction just makes something give. Basically anything can and will break, so how you drive it once finished will play alot into the longivity of whatever you use.

 

[jaybe2]

Whats the secret to getting the adapter for $500 from Marks? Online I see its north of $950 plus shipping - I'm guessing you got it used? If you are interested in selling the adapter, let me know via PM

Flat towing it behind RV or Trailer it?

I've got a buddy with a dodge dakota buggy thing with a very healthy 440 Motor and 42" pitbulls running on a Dana60 that is beefed will all the things that can be done (chromoly 35 spline shafts) and he still breaks ujoints and shafts from time to time and has taken out a ring and pinion as well. Rear 14 bolt has never given him any problems in 10+ years of wheeling. Seems to me when the ujoint or shaft does go, its in a spot on pretty big rocks and the traction just makes something give. Basically anything can and will break, so how you drive it once finished will play alot into the longivity of whatever you use.
[/QUOT

Sorry I was thinking of the part time kit yes the adapter was over a grand

Trailer incase I break something that cant be fixed