1996 Starter Clicks but No Start

[Hornd]

Conditions:

• Recently hooked up 2nd battery with Blue Sea ACR (unhooked to rule out)
  
• Changed EFI Relay
• Has a Viper Remote Start and Alarm
  
• Changed out Fusible Links then changed back to Originals
  
• Changed Starter to Denso Reman
  
• Check coil plug - no corrosion
• Did not Check Neutral Safety Switch, but ran selector thru gears
• Starter Clicks but will not turn over
• Old Starter clicked the exact same as new Starter
  
• Tried jumping it with 2nd battery and a portable power pack. Starter still clicked

Would ignition cause starter to engage but not start?
Would Neutral Safety Switch cause starter to engage but not turn over?
Battery tested good 2 days ago, It's a 2 yr old Costco Interstate.
I did not have a multi-meter today to check battery, but AAA tried jumping with zero luck.
Wanted to check power wire to starter but no multimeter kept in truck.
What more should I have attempted?

 

[mct75]

When you say it clicks, do you mean the starter relay clicks or the solenoid plunger pulls in? if the plunger is enaging the problem is the starter or perhaps a severe undervoltage. I had that on my RN50, starter would clunk but not enough to hit the contacts for the motor. I had to upgrade some wiring.

 

[george_tlc]

Do you have GOOD +12V cable integrity all the way from the Battery +12V post to the start motor +12V lug??? If not, the solenoid will happily click with the ignition key, but you'll get no cranking.

cheers,
george.

 

[BILT4ME]

FUSIBLE LINKS!!!

I had to say it before anyone else did.......

 

[Hornd]

FUSIBLE LINKS!!!

I had to say it before anyone else did.......

Already went thru those.
2X today.

 

[Hornd]

Do you have GOOD +12V cable integrity all the way from the Battery +12V post to the start motor +12V lug??? If not, the solenoid will happily click with the ignition key, but you'll get no cranking.

cheers,
george.

I think your on to something, I should just make a new set of cables.
I have a swedging tool at work.
Takes very little time.
A quick test at the starter should show if it is getting 12V+

 

[BILT4ME]

Wasn't there something about a BYPASS switch that some of the guys were doing to counteract this? It was like giving more direct power to the solenoid.

 

[george_tlc]

Wasn't there something about a BYPASS switch that some of the guys were doing to counteract this? It was like giving more direct power to the solenoid.

No, that's a switch that bypasses the ignition switch. Basically provides +12V to the solenoid to engage the solenoid. That's great *IF* you have a GOOD +12V from battery to Starter +12V Lug already.

Given the OP seems to feel his solenoid is clicking, that would imply that the solenoid/ignition switch is fine and there's a problem with the high current battery to motor cable (the big cable that goes direct from +12V battery lug to +12V starter motor lug (actually the 'input' side of the solenoid contact).

A starter motor is essentially two items, one is the actual motor that spins the flywheel and second is the solenoid (essentially a high current relay) that provides the high current +12V to the motor. The solenoid gets its activating +12V via the ignition switch path, the motor gets its +12V through the solenoid contacts/plunger direct from the battery +12V. Ground is via the starter body and the big black ground cable from the battery -ve to the block.

cheers,
george.

 

[BILT4ME]

Which would lead me to believe either dirty cable ends or bad cables.

 

[george_tlc]

Which would lead me to believe either dirty cable ends or bad cables.

Which would explain why I suggested verifying that the cable integrity between the +12V battery post and Starter +12V lug is in GOOD condition

... and making sure the negative from Battery - to block is also good.

cheers,
george.

 

[Hornd]

I always try to tell the truth so here it is:

Toyota Dealership called back today and told me the Denso Reman starter 3 days old is no good.
Bill to Toyota $117, AAA tow was covered by my Membership, I also wasted 2 hrs removing old and putting on new and 2 hrs sitting waiting for a tow and trying to get it running.
Toyota wants $77 labor and $260 for OEM Starter to replace or about $350 with Tax.
Rock Auto is sending another starter and will be to me in 2 days.
1st issue I have ever had with a Denso part (this one said made in USA on box)

I guess the OEM purists can kick me while I'm under the truck putting in the 2nd starter.

 

[george_tlc]

^hmmm - could be, wouldn't be the 1st time a reman unit has been defective.

But, I'd also suspect and question EXACTLY how did the dealership determine the starter is bad? Other than $350 potential income...

Oh, I always connect a 'new' starter to some jumper cables to verify it at least engages/spins before the trouble of mounting it into the vehicle. At least a quick sanity check. Doesn't catch all possible issues, but better than blind faith

cheers,
george.

 

[LINUS]

Have you given the starter a touch of "controlled violence" yet?

I would get a length of pipe, round stock, prybar, etc & a 3lb+ hammer, give the case a few good smacks.

Alternately, since you're in the Midwest, shoot some Tri-flo / WD-40 on the 12v lug, let it get down in there.

When you get a chance to do it right, grease the terminal when buttoning up, keeps the salt / corrosion on a slower pace.

You could have enough power to kick the solenoid but plunger might need a lil' reminder who's in charge, so if you hadn't hit it yet, it's time.

::Edit -- Doh! If I had read your last post, I would see my advice is late. R.I.F. -- Edit::

 

[LS1FJ40]

So, this is why I went to Duralast starters from AutoZone. They are the only nonOEM part undermy hood (unless you count batteries and aux fuse panels, etc). I have heard tons of issues with new or reman OEM starters being dead out of the box. AutoZone test the starter. Lifetime warranty. I keep a spare on the shelf. If I travel a long way (more than 200 miles) from home I throw it in the back and take it with. Frankly, I've never had a problem with them. Oh, and I think I paid $56 for the last one...

 

[Hornd]

^hmmm - could be, wouldn't be the 1st time a reman unit has been defective.

But, I'd also suspect and question EXACTLY how did the dealership determine the starter is bad? Other than $350 potential income...

Oh, I always connect a 'new' starter to some jumper cables to verify it at least engages/spins before the trouble of mounting it into the vehicle. At least a quick sanity check. Doesn't catch all possible issues, but better than blind faith

cheers,
george.

George,
My dad said the same, but when you run the truck for 2 days prior with said starter, it kind of negates testing.
I told myself I'm starting this one 20X before it leaves the driveway.
Nobody wants to see a LC on a Flatbed!

 

[mct75]

Are you a brave enough person to put multimeter probes on the solenoid while someone cranks it?

 

[Hornd]

Are you a brave enough person to put multimeter probes on the solenoid while someone cranks it?

Wife said she's not interested in cranking it while I probe it, and I'm not brave enough to ask a man.

 

[kombi]

if you jumped it at the starter its ether A the starter or B the 12v source (didnt read the other posts if this was already said.

 

[Hornd]

I'm in this exact debacle right now.
Bought a Denso Made in America Rebuild from Rock for a little over $100. Looked like brand new.
Drove it 2 days.....Died at Gas Station. Tried everything I knew to get it running.
Had it towed to Toyota Dealership...$117 later they tell me the "new" starter is bad .
Toyota wanted $77 labor and $260 OEM Starter (Denso) to replace.
For $350 I can put on 1 Rock Auto Junker and put 2 in the glove box for backups, but I will never have back the 4 hours and $117 I wasted. Proceed Accordingly.

In theory same goes for Alternator, Battery, Fusible Links, EFI Relay, Belts, Hoses, Mixing Valve.....

1996 Starter Clicks but No Start

 

[Tools R Us]

... but I will never have back the 4 hours and $117 I wasted. Proceed Accordingly.
...

Best bet, don't drive old cars, oh wait, new cars can break too, so ride the bus?!

Sounds like Rock Auto is doing the right thing, replacing it? By my observation, the one you got from Toyota likely came from the same place. The replacement Toyota starter that I had die was on a hundy, much bigger pain to change. All companies have had failures, parts break, it's part of life. Overall the Denso/Toyota reman starters have been the most consistent quality of the ones that I have used, had apart. All of the others have been disappointing quality, poor and/or missing parts, etc.