1995 No Start Isuue (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
125
Location
Sacramento, CA
At this point I'm getting ready to take this thing to Georg at Valley Hybrids, because it is driving me up a wall.

Recently I had a continuing 30a fusible link issue, the pink wire would fry every time i turned the key to start the truck. That issue turned out to be the crappy duralast distributor i had put into this thing, changed it back to oem and my issues were gone.

Truck fired right up and idled beautifully (although it did make some weird metal-ish grinding noises momentarily) , and upon checking the timing with my light, it was idling at around 25* to my surprise. No adjustment to the distributor could've reigned it back into spec. So i shut it off, pulled the dizzy, reclocked it back to roughly 11 o clock after i set my crank pulley back to 0*.

Now the truck wont run at all. It'll turn over and shudder and get so close to firing up but it seems like it just quite doesn't have quite enough juice.

Some things to note at this point of the process:

1.) I have fuel and spark, when I pull my no. 1 spark plug, it wreaks of fuel, dripping slightly. And when i jumped my main coil/plug wire from the coil to the intake manifold, it reached out and gave me a little hug.

2.) The battery seems to be draining much much quicker than before. When the truck initially left me stranded on the side of the highway, i could let it crank and crank for what seemed like ever, take the key out and do it again 10 seconds later. Now, the battery seems to want to drain itself in about 5 seconds of cranking.

3.) I have some dash lights staying on when i take the key out of the ignition. This would point to my ignition switch it seems, and something to note about this specifically is when I disconnect my battery with the lights illuminated, they go off until i turn the key and take it out again. It would make sense if they would come back on when I connect the battery again (something sticking inside the cylinder or the switch itself) but this aspect I'm not all too keen of.

4.) I heat wrapped my main harness away from my EGR. Nothing jerked on or broken, just snugged away and insulated. pic attached

So to sum it up, I have spark and fuel, and the timing is dead nuts. What could this be?

IMG_4662.jpg


IMG_4691.jpg


IMG_4711.jpg
 
Some other thoughts, ill need to check back on my voltage drop when cranking, i haven't checked that yet

Also, i have no accessories hooked up right now. no lights, winch or amplifier to speak of.
 
Some other thoughts, ill need to check back on my voltage drop when cranking, i haven't checked that yet

Also, i have no accessories hooked up right now. no lights, winch or amplifier to speak of.
Just because you had your HB set to TDC does NOT mean it was on the COMPRESSION stroke. I'll bet you're 180° out on your distributor. What you're describing sounds like that.

Rotate the engine until it's on TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, THEN set your distributor. Pull #1 spark plug, rotate the engine in the correct direction (do NOT turn it backwards) and with your hand over the hole or a paper towel stuffed into the hole, feel the compression occurring, then you'll know you're on the compression stroke.
 
Truck fired right up and idled beautifully (although it did make some weird metal-ish grinding noises momentarily) , and upon checking the timing with my light, it was idling at around 25* to my surprise.
I'm going to say a short "no" to that statement.
If your ignition timing was at 25 degrees in either direction, this engine wouldn't run.
 
Just because you had your HB set to TDC does NOT mean it was on the COMPRESSION stroke. I'll bet you're 180° out on your distributor. What you're describing sounds like that.

Rotate the engine until it's on TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, THEN set your distributor. Pull #1 spark plug, rotate the engine in the correct direction (do NOT turn it backwards) and with your hand over the hole or a paper towel stuffed into the hole, feel the compression occurring, then you'll know you're on the compression stroke.
I pulled the No.1 plug and looked it, it was at the top. So you’re saying it’ll be at TDC once more before the Compression stroke?
 
I'm going to say a short "no" to that statement.
If your ignition timing was at 25 degrees in either direction, this engine wouldn't run.
Put the ignition light on it and it was the same distance away from 13 as 0 is to 13 roughly
 
I pulled the No.1 plug and looked it, it was at the top. So you’re saying it’ll be at TDC once more before the Compression stroke?

yes, 4 stroke engine, so it is at TDC at top of exhaust stroke and at top of compression stroke.

This is easy to do, as I just rebuilt an engine and put the distributor 180 degrees off... swear I looked at the cam journals to make sure valves were closed but clearly I did not....
 
yes, 4 stroke engine, so it is at TDC at top of exhaust stroke and at top of compression stroke.

This is easy to do, as I just rebuilt an engine and put the distributor 180 degrees off... swear I looked at the cam journals to make sure valves were closed but clearly I did not....
Well then.... guess I skipped basic training

I’ll rotate the crank and re rotate the distributor and fire it up

Still will need to figure out the dash lights though
 
Any way to tell without the VC off it it’s on the compression stroke?
Yes....... See my post #3 from earlier. I told you how to check it.
 
Just because you had your HB set to TDC does NOT mean it was on the COMPRESSION stroke. I'll bet you're 180° out on your distributor. What you're describing sounds like that.

Rotate the engine until it's on TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, THEN set your distributor. Pull #1 spark plug, rotate the engine in the correct direction (do NOT turn it backwards) and with your hand over the hole or a paper towel stuffed into the hole, feel the compression occurring, then you'll know you're on the compression stroke.
Well I made 100000% sure it was on the compression stroke, I could definitely feel it with the plug out. Rotor right at 11, it wanted to start on the first key turn, then after that, the battery winds down very very quickly. I have it on a tender in between tried. Battery is winding down fast when I turn it the second time and after that when my dash lights are staying on and my ignition bell is ringing louder/different tones intermittently. Could the ignition switch cause this? My guess is yes but I’ve clearly been wrong before
 
Well I made 100000% sure it was on the compression stroke, I could definitely feel it with the plug out. Rotor right at 11, it wanted to start on the first key turn, then after that, the battery winds down very very quickly. I have it on a tender in between tried. Battery is winding down fast when I turn it the second time and after that when my dash lights are staying on and my ignition bell is ringing louder/different tones intermittently. Could the ignition switch cause this? My guess is yes but I’ve clearly been wrong before
You've probably killed the battery as long as it's been down and as many times. After so much completely discharged a battery gets, sometimes they don't recover.
 
You've probably killed the battery as long as it's been down and as many times. After so much completely discharged a battery gets, sometimes they don't recover.
Wants to start far better now, stumbling and almost firing over, but not quite.
 
You've probably killed the battery as long as it's been down and as many times. After so much completely discharged a battery gets, sometimes they don't recover.
So, I have an aftermarket alarm/remote start. I had the idea to start it with my fob, it did everything it normally does when it remote starts except start. So I put the key in and started it like normal and it fired right up.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom