Builds 1995 HZJ77 wagon build - Japan sourced (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Threads
7
Messages
190
Location
Edgemoor, SC
This build is about my recently (November 2018) purchased HZJ77 70 Series Wagon and the modifications I'm working on.

I bought it nearly sight unseen (other than 4-5 photos) off of Yahoo Auctions here in Japan (I'm currently located in Nagoya) for 1,100,000yen (about $9500) and had it shipped from Hokkaido to me.

The owner said it was in daily driver running condition and just had a few rust spots that needed to be taken care of. I was super nervous spending that much on something I hadn't seen myself, but it was $6-7000 less than the average for other 70 Series auctions, so I figured what the hell and pulled the trigger. (I also figured that I could always spend the $$ I saved on the auction on fixing any issues I found along the way)

Here's a pic from the auction.
thumb_IMG_7356_1024.jpg


SPECS
1995 HZJ77 LandCruiser wagon
4.5L 1HZ engine (Naturally aspirated)
H55 5 speed manual transmission
33"x10.5 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R tires on 16" rims (285/75R16)
2" shackle lift with stock leaf springs & Rancho shocks
Electric locking front hubs
Electric H4 4wd and manual transfer case
Upgraded LED headlamp kit (maker unknown)
Front turn signals and grille "upgraded" from 1995 to 1999-2003 model year

Things I want to eventually mod/upgrade:
Snorkel
Roof Rack
Rear Bumper
Front Bumper (?)
Lockable center console
Seat covers
Lockable rear drawer system
Roof console system
Turbo (worth it?)
Locking differentials (what options are out there? I asked Toyota, but they said that the factory lockers are sold out / discontinued)

Gripes:
For some reason Japanese really don't like having the spare tire on the rear door, so they take it, and the tire mount off of the door... so I'm going to have to source a 5th wheel/tire and a mount for it sometime...


Anyways, I've been a follower for a while but this is my first post here, so I hope I don't make too many faux pas as far as rules are concerned...

I'd also LOVE any advice from people who have more experience with these trucks than I do. This is my second LandCruiser (I have a '74 FJ40 stateside), but my first diesel... so there's a learning curve for some things...
 
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Great looking 70, and great price.

As with any new cruiser, I would start by baselining it. Fluids, overall health and figure out that timing belt ASAP. If you have no records on it, just do it. Tie rod ends, steering, brakes.

Personally I would look at replacing those shackles with normal or slightly taller than stock shackles and then going with a lift. OME, Ironman, dobinson

Front bumper, ARB fan personally.

Locking diffs, I would go with ARB or Harrop E locker.


As for turbo, there are plenty of installs with turbos on 1HZ and no issues. I would however make sure your bottom end bearings are replaced or in good shape before you turbo it. Plenty of opinions and discussion on the bottom end bearings in these engines.

EDIT: the 1HZ seems to have no issues with Bottom End Bearings like the 1HD

Welcome to 70 series.
 
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First thing I did upon receiving the truck from the transport company was to check over everything that I could with my current tool set.

I then took it to the Toyota dealer next door to my apartment and get them to do a full run down on everything I either couldn't do or couldn't do easily. They said it's in surprisingly good shape for a car of its age. Just a leaky rear shock absorber, a mild leak in the Power Steering pump, and some trim/weatherstripping here and there that needed replacing.

Checks done by me/Toyota:
Timing belt age/condition
Steering system condition / grease / alignment
Brake lines/hoses/pads/rotors/drums & oil level
Clutch free play / function / oil level
Transmission/transfer case oil levels / function
Drivetrain grease / oil levels
Engine cooling system
Heat/AC system
Engine Hoses
Oil level (it was changed recently - had a receipt)
Body panels (some small dents and scratches, but it's a cruiser)
interior - in surprisingly good shape


Rust - all in all, nothing structural, but preventative maintenance would be good.
Left rear quarter panel needs work (cut & weld?)
Left rear passenger sill bottom needs work (cut & weld?)
Right rear passenger sill bottom needs work (cut & weld?)
Right front fender front needs work
Rear door sills need work
a few other small spots to touch up

One thing I quickly noticed was that the steering wheel was really (uncomfortably) close... and the shift stick was abnormally long... Upon further inspection it seems that the guy I bought the truck from must have been unusually short. (3 inch steering spacer, and 6-7 inch shifter extension) All that nonsense had to go.

Steering spacer
IMG_7869.jpg



Replaced after initial checks:
Windshield wipers
Driver's window weather stripping
Steering wheel spacer - (removed)
Shift stick extension - (removed)
New OEM shift knob - (installed)
Passenger Door Ajar sensor - (replaced)

Other things purchased:
Toyota Service & Repair manual

Random cool fact - The Toyota dealer next to me is actually where the original Toyota car company was started! It's semi-attached to the museum they made the original factory buildings into.

Cool fact 2 - Toyota was originally a manufacturer of, and still sells, fabric weaving equipment.
 
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Great looking 70, and great price.

As with any new cruiser, I would start by baselining it. Fluids, overall health and figure out that timing belt ASAP. If you have no records on it, just do it. Tie rod ends, steering, brakes.

Personally I would look at replacing those shackles with normal or slightly taller than stock shackles and then going with a lift. OME, Ironman, dobinson

Front bumper, ARB fan personally.

Locking diffs, I would go with ARB or Harrop E locker.


As for turbo, there are plenty of installs with turbos on 1HZ and no issues. I would however make sure your bottom end bearings are replaced or in good shape before you turbo it. Plenty of opinions and discussion on the bottom end bearings in these engines.

Welcome to 70 series.

Thanks for the welcome!

I've already done most of what you've suggested (my second post) but yeah, those are all great ideas!

Yeah, long term I'll look at getting an actual lift, but the shackles work for me at the moment. (and lifts/custom parts are SUPER expensive to come by in Japan... T_T)

Yeah, I'll probably go with an ARB, though I like the look of this bumper as well:
12512400_1125219367544439_2966314967364502626_n.jpg


Any idea where I can source the locking diffs?

Yeah, I've done a little bit of research on turbos, but I'm not yet sure that it's worth it. (money or durability wise) Thanks for the tip on the bottom end bearings though!
 
Was the rear door originally fitted with a rear carrier or no?

Most 70s have the spare on the rear door if it has a factory sub-tank. From what I've seen at least.

You can buy the components to mount it on the rear door if you want to go that route. If you want to stay factory you'll need to order a new door (the OEM rear carrier door has re-inforcing) and mount hardware.
 
Was the rear door originally fitted with a rear carrier or no?

Most 70s have the spare on the rear door if it has a factory sub-tank. From what I've seen at least.

You can buy the components to mount it on the rear door if you want to go that route. If you want to stay factory you'll need to order a new door (the OEM rear carrier door has re-inforcing) and mount hardware.

Yes, it originally had a carrier on the rear door. For some reason many Japanese don't like the tires on the rear door so they take the tire and the mount off of the door.... And they're like $100 to get a used one (I may get lucky and pick one up on an auction)

In the long run, i'm looking at a rear bumper mounted carrier to take the weight off the door.
 
Thanks for the welcome!

I've already done most of what you've suggested (my second post) but yeah, those are all great ideas!

Yeah, long term I'll look at getting an actual lift, but the shackles work for me at the moment. (and lifts/custom parts are SUPER expensive to come by in Japan... T_T)

Yeah, I'll probably go with an ARB, though I like the look of this bumper as well:
View attachment 1885540

Any idea where I can source the locking diffs?

Yeah, I've done a little bit of research on turbos, but I'm not yet sure that it's worth it. (money or durability wise) Thanks for the tip on the bottom end bearings though!

That is a great looking bumper. I've got and ARB already or that would be on the short list.


Factory lockers, you just kinda have to put the word out and keep looking. Check the classifieds here.

You can get ARB air lockers from all over. A good shop and vendor on here is @cruiseroutfit Cruiser Outfitters not sure if overseas shipping will work in your favor.

@wardharris and @orangefj45 with Harrop E-Locker | U.S. Reseller | Eaton Locker Technology sell the Harrop Elocker and can give you all the info on that if you want to go with electric lockers. Again, no idea on shipping if it makes it logical to ship to Japan or not.

OEM, Air or Electric is just kind of up to you on which way you want to go. Plenty of reading on both.

I would hold off on the turbo unless for some reason you just have to have that extra power or are disappointed with the stock 1HZ.
 
@Pip Bernadotte ..... "Yeah, I've done a little bit of research on turbos, but I'm not yet sure that it's worth it. (money or durability wise)"
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You have the advantage of the 5 speed manual transmissions instead of the power stealing automatic that many 77 Series seem to have so a turbo isn't as important. However a properly installed and tuned turbo / Intercooler will really bring the 1HZ to life.
 
Check junk yards for the carrier. I bought mine for ¥2000.

I wouldn’t lift the truck there unless you’re willing to go through a title mod. Is your truck 100 or 400 series?
 
Some pictures

IMG_9069.jpg


IMG_9267.jpg


With the stupid steering wheel spacer and shift knob extension
thumb_IMG_7360_1024.jpg


thumb_IMG_7361_1024.jpg
 
That is a great looking bumper. I've got and ARB already or that would be on the short list.


Factory lockers, you just kinda have to put the word out and keep looking. Check the classifieds here.

You can get ARB air lockers from all over. A good shop and vendor on here is @cruiseroutfit Cruiser Outfitters not sure if overseas shipping will work in your favor.

@wardharris and @orangefj45 with Harrop E-Locker | U.S. Reseller | Eaton Locker Technology sell the Harrop Elocker and can give you all the info on that if you want to go with electric lockers. Again, no idea on shipping if it makes it logical to ship to Japan or not.

OEM, Air or Electric is just kind of up to you on which way you want to go. Plenty of reading on both.

I would hold off on the turbo unless for some reason you just have to have that extra power or are disappointed with the stock 1HZ.

Thanks for the info!

I was told by Toyota that they've been sold out for a few years (and I think i remember Crusher saying he bought the last set on a build thread a few years ago... so... unless anyone as any leads, an aftermarket one will probably have to do)

I'll take a look at all that, but I'm not in a big rush to get them. The 70 can currently out drive my skills anyways. Plus I'm looking at bringing it back with me stateside in a year or two anyways. (so not worth coughing up the $$ for shipping for that amount of time)
 
Check junk yards for the carrier. I bought mine for ¥2000.

I wouldn’t lift the truck there unless you’re willing to go through a title mod. Is your truck 100 or 400 series?

Junk yards? I haven't seen many of them around Nagoya... at least nothing past a few K-car lots...
I assume you're in Japan? (or were) Where abouts?

Yeah, probably gonna stick with the shackle lift for now. Then upgrade in a few years when I get back stateside.
A 100 or 400 series? What's the difference?
 
Two things, firstly that steering wheel and gear knob are worth $$. Don't bin them, the spacer is probably worthless, but also the hub adaptor is a pricey item if genuine Nardi or Personal branded, look for "Made in Italy" markings on all components and a production number or date on the back of the centre spoke of the steering wheel, this will help you identify what you have. It looks to me like a 330mm Nardi Classic, the small diameter ones are more prized than the standard 350mm in Japan. A matching set of Nardi gear knob and 330mm wheel with trim ring and horn button could net you between 15-30000 yen in my opinion. Secondly, you may want to switch to a larger diameter steering wheel (365mm and above) as you'll find it less strenuous to use especially at low speed/parking lots etc.

Love the 70 in Black mate, nice purchase!
 
Two things, firstly that steering wheel and gear knob are worth $$. Don't bin them, the spacer is probably worthless, but also the hub adaptor is a pricey item if genuine Nardi or Personal branded, look for "Made in Italy" markings on all components and a production number or date on the back of the centre spoke of the steering wheel, this will help you identify what you have. It looks to me like a 330mm Nardi Classic, the small diameter ones are more prized than the standard 350mm in Japan. A matching set of Nardi gear knob and 330mm wheel with trim ring and horn button could net you between 15-30000 yen in my opinion. Secondly, you may want to switch to a larger diameter steering wheel (365mm and above) as you'll find it less strenuous to use especially at low speed/parking lots etc.

Love the 70 in Black mate, nice purchase!

Yeah, I've been told they could be worth quite a bit. I haven't looked close enough to see if it's legit, though it has a signature stamped into one of the spokes on the front. I like the leather wrapping of this wheel, but it does seem a little bit small... (though not unusable by any means) It's especially small in comparison to the MASSIVE steering wheel that comes on my FJ40... but what isn't.

There isn't a hub adapter. The spacer has the same bolt pattern as both the toyota and the Nardi.

Any suggestions for a replacement, should I decide to go that route?
 
The hub adapter is the piece that you have yet to remove from the steering column, there has to be one, as the toyota wheel as standard incorporates the toothed hole that slides over the steering column and is porqued down with the big brass nut. The hub adapter is what gives you the multiple bolt patterns (momo & nardi slightly different) and the spacer will have these two bolt patterns common to each end of it as well.

There's a high chance the parts are genuine as Japan's aftermarket scene (as well as some high spec OEM trim levels from manufacturers) has long used Nardi and Momo.

Personally I would look for any Italvolante, Nardi or Momo wheels in the 365mm and up diameter, style is an individual choice but I quite like the no nonsense look of a 370 or 380mm Momo Monte Carlo. You will save some money by being able to use the existing hub adapter also.
 
Junk yards? I haven't seen many of them around Nagoya... at least nothing past a few K-car lots...
I assume you're in Japan? (or were) Where abouts?

Yeah, probably gonna stick with the shackle lift for now. Then upgrade in a few years when I get back stateside.
A 100 or 400 series? What's the difference?

Your license plate. It should have your prefecture followed by numbers, 100, 400, 300, etc. the numbers are related to vehicle size. Sometimes 77’s are tagged 100 or 400 with no rhyme or reason. If your tagged 400 I wouldn’t touch any suspension or bar work for fear of getting it tagged as a 100. Considerable cost difference in registration, road tax, jci.

Edit, based on your photos, your truck is a 100 series plate.


I may have a carrier in the near future for you if you want it.
 
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So I have to ask, if you are in Nagoya how are you registering the Landcruiser? I doubt that it passes the Diesel engine emissions requirements for Aichi.
 

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