1995 fzj80 no heat

Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
19
Location
alabama
Hey guys got a question regarding my heat system. I acquired my 80 series about a month ago and its started getting quite cold down here in North Alabama. Im not even getting a touch of heat when turned on. First thought is heater core but ive saw where some owners issues were solved with a flush. Is there any way to diagnose what the exact issue may be. Thanks in advance!
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
19
Location
alabama
Update:
Replaced the heater control valve . Come to find out that was not the issue , but I’m still glad I did a little preventative maintenance.

What should have crossed my mind when initially observing the issue was the cable in which move the valve to the open position . BINGO

If anyone has experience or has fixed the issue concerning the valve cable feel free to share .

Also, even though it’s not the hottest heat it’s better than cold air on a 30 degree morning .
 
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Olathe, KS, USA
Update:
Replaced the heater control valve . Come to find out that was not the issue , but I’m still glad I did a little preventative maintenance.

What should have crossed my mind when initially observing the issue was the cable in which move the valve to the open position . BINGO

If anyone has experience or has fixed the issue concerning the valve cable feel free to share .

Also, even though it’s not the hottest heat it’s better than cold air on a 30 degree morning .
What issue are you seeing with the cable?
Actuation?
Direction of actuation?
Sticky?
Not enough travel?

Be aware that it is possible to install the valve from an earlier version that literally travels the opposite direction of the later models.

It the cable stuck or the actuator for the cable is not making it move?
Many possibilities that need more input from you.
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
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Location
alabama
I’m getting no movement at all from the cable.
I noticed when I had the previous valve on it did the same thing but it never crossed my mind that it was the issue .

I did in fact confirm the new valve move the same direction as the old one .

But to answer your question I’m not sure weather the cable is stuck or if the actuator is not allowing it to move .
 

Irish Reiver

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Orlando, Florida
For the short term you can always disconnect the cable and manually shift the valve to open. I'm not sure how the mechanics of the cable work as I have never seen one failed before, however I do know chapter and verse on how to fix the same problem on P38 Ranger Rover :rofl:
 
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alabama
For the short term you can always disconnect the cable and manually shift the valve to open. I'm not sure how the mechanics of the cable work as I have never seen one failed before, however I do know chapter and verse on how to fix the same problem on P38 Ranger Rover :rofl:
Will it do any harm to just keep it open at all times?
 

Irish Reiver

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None what so ever but you might find that you are driving around in tee-shirt at 10f.
By the way. I take it you know there is a second heater in the cabin. It is designed for the passengers in the rear but warms the front pretty good as well.
 
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Oct 24, 2020
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Location
alabama
Today I had my local Toyota dealership flush the coolant and still no heat in to which they say it could be possible my Hester core is clogged. The previous coolant was just nasty nasty so I can believe that it may be the case . Should I go through with going back and having my Heater core flushed ?
 
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Mar 28, 2020
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Dfw
I'm chasing very similar things as you, I'm getting a little heat (enough to take the bite out of the cold) but not full heat. From my reading it gets quite hot when working as designed.

I made sure my coolant was full (it was)

You can try to make sure theres no air trapped in the heater core by jacking the front end of the truck up and letting it warm up that way.

The heater core flush isn't bad at all, took me about an hour. Here's the thread I used to guide me

The actuator for the heater valve is located behind the radio, it controls both the valve and the blend door for the HVAC. I've seen from searching others have been able to lube the cables around the actuator because they were binding. This might not be working on your rig and might need to be changed.

Last for me is a thermostat swap, other than that I have no idea what else it could be.
 

LandLocked93

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Colorado
other than that I have no idea what else it could be.
Preamble: I only flushed the core. The remaining coolant system was left untouched.
I found the actual flushing of the core happened over a season following the act of flushing.
Meaning I saw no great improvement immediately after flushing. But over the next 8 mos or so, I saw the radiator bottle slowly decrease it's held capacity while it filled from the bottom with rust or red clay. 1kmi later, enough to clean out again. Slowly, it took more miles between clean-outs and fluid level change, stabilized. Wasn't sure what was going on for a while. But then also noticed the dash heat was indeed quite improved. Don't have to run on high in sub zero temps anymore. Radiator is vintage, but no visible rust areas inside or out.
Oh and also, that rushing liquid sound in the dash @2krpms that was present since purchase is completely gone.
 

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