1994 periodically won’t start (1 Viewer)

[coreygil18]

You have to select the vehicle, then the starter size: 1.4kW or 2.0 kW
View attachment 3292442
View attachment 3292443
with a nod to @arcteryx: (Post #1); ignore the 3FE; you most likely have the 2.0, but you need to be certain - the parts aren't the same
View attachment 3292444

Here's the number you want:
View attachment 3292447

or, you can buy the solenoid rebuilt, from Toyota (McGeorge has a 30% off sale on now):
View attachment 3292449

Thank you. I went into the site and called the place. Starters are in stock, the rebuild kit isn't. How do I know if I need the 1.4 or 2.0 Kwh starter?

 

[coreygil18]

If banging on the starter gets things going, it's bad contacts.

What is the recommended fix for bad contacts?

 

[Malleus]

The contacts aren't "bad" per se; their grasp just exceeds their reach. They have to be replaced. So, based on McGeorge's ridiculously low prices, I'd just buy a new solenoid. Keep the old one though; it can be rebuilt and used again. LMK if you replace it and don't want the old one.

 

[coreygil18]

Thank you. I went into the site and called the place. Starters are in stock, the rebuild kit isn't. How do I know if I need the 1.4 or 2.0 Kwh starter?

The picture was perfect. Mine is the 2.0. Thanks for all the help on this thread so far.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, the starters are generally hard to kill; it's the solenoids that need love.

 

[alia176]

If you're doing just the starter contacts refresh, be sure to follow the FSM pages on this exact topic. It is an easy project but does require a little bit diligence on how to situate the contacts completely flat inside the solenoid. Download the FSM from this forum, up top. The last time I bought a starter contact kit from a dealer, it was less than $20. Heck, even NAPA sells them.

 

[Rifleman]

My 94 started having this same problem with not starting. The difference i have compared to the OP is i started having this problem after i rebuild the starter with new factory contacts, and after installing a brand new factory fuse able link.

So i removed the starter to check and make sure that i didn't make a mistake when installing the new contacts and plunger. Everything was installed correctly, so i reinstalled the starter.

Next i checked over the new fuse able link, everything checked out. Next i checked all the ground connections to make sure they were all clean and tight, everything was clean and tight.

Problem is, the truck still doesn't start sometimes, no click, no nothing when you turn the key. Before anyone asks, the battery cables and terminals are clean and tight, and i load tested the battery and it checked out as good.

Just a question, but i seem to remember reading about corrosion inside the neutral safety mounted on the transmission can cause starting problems. So what do you think, should i pull the neutral safety switch and see if this could be the cause of my problem?

 

[alia176]

My 94 started having this same problem with not starting. The difference i have compared to the OP is i started having this problem after i rebuild the starter with new factory contacts, and after installing a brand new factory fuse able link.

So i removed the starter to check and make sure that i didn't make a mistake when installing the new contacts and plunger. Everything was installed correctly, so i reinstalled the starter.

Next i checked over the new fuse able link, everything checked out. Next i checked all the ground connections to make sure they were all clean and tight, everything was clean and tight.

Problem is, the truck still doesn't start sometimes, no click, no nothing when you turn the key. Before anyone asks, the battery cables and terminals are clean and tight, and i load tested the battery and it checked out as good.

Just a question, but i seem to remember reading about corrosion inside the neutral safety mounted on the transmission can cause starting problems. So what do you think, should i pull the neutral safety switch and see if this could be the cause of my problem?

start here: Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/emergency-troubleshooting-procedures-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-in-truck.115816/

 

[Rifleman]

start here: Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/emergency-troubleshooting-procedures-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-in-truck.115816/

After looking at that link, and thread, it doesn't so much look to be a problem with corrosion in the NSS itself, as it is corrosion in the connector that feeds the NSS. So it looks like i have a project for Saturday morning, inspecting and cleaning my NSS connector.

 

[alia176]

After looking at that link, and thread, it doesn't so much look to be a problem with corrosion in the NSS itself, as it is corrosion in the connector that feeds the NSS. So it looks like i have a project for Saturday morning, inspecting and cleaning my NSS connector.

I'm glad that link helped you out and set up a course of action for you this weekend. Let us know what you find out and if you're able to solve your issue.

 

[jonheld]

“Fusible Link - When you 1st turn your key forward, far enough fir accessories to turn on, but not to spin the starter..... does your Check Engine light come on? If no ..... fuesable link is bad. If yes.... check your fuel injection relay under the hood!“
95% of the time one of them will fix it.

To be clear, nothing in the EFI system touches the starter circuit. It is isolated from 99% of the vehicle's electronics.
You can remove all relays, the ECU, and 99% of the vehicle's electronics, and the starter will still crank the engine.