The engine is supposed to nearly die when you remove the oil cap while idling. It allows a ton of unmetered air to enter and really messed up the O2 sensors and the computer tries to adjust and it can't so it dies.
1994 Fzj80 severe miss Please Help!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter claiborne86
- Start date
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That's a good thing. It means you don't have a ton of vacuum leaks.
- Thread starter
- #43
Thanks I read conflicting info on it
- Thread starter
- #44
Finally an update. First and foremost thanks to all that commented. I ended up buying and doing a lot more than I had planned but It was all worth it. The first thing I did was the Ntk 02s and it ran even worse as I said in another comment. To all of you that said wiring harness you were correct. I was able to purchase a wiring harness off here and put it on last week. Man what a pain. I am not a small guy and getting those plugs by the trans were no fun at all. My arms had a serious problems reaching through the small area you have to. I also did all my heater hoses phh included , new Pcv, and I broke a knock sensor and had to buy one of those. I’m at 120 miles with no cel and no problems. Feels like a completely different vehicle. While I was in there I also deleted all the pair - smog pretty much all vacuum lines and damn my engine bay is looking better, thanks again to anyone that posted.
Sweet result. Did you do an autopsy on the old harness to see if you could locate the damage?
- Thread starter
- #46
Yeah it looks like the distributor rpm sensing was one issue and the long o2 was the second. It also probably didn’t help that near all the injector plugs were broken before I touched them. So between those three I suspect it was one or all of them causing the issues.
Wah00
SILVER Star
I love a happy ending!
- Thread starter
- #48
Ok not so happy ending..... I got in the truck yesterday morning to drive to work. I am located in NC home of 100% humidity every other day. It was especially muggy and drizzling on the way to work, and boom same old miss and cel stayed on for a few seconds then cel cuts off. The reason I bring up the humidity and rain is it is the only thing I can think of in common with the weekend in Jefferson Forest when it acted so badly. So the real list of what I have replaced.
1. known good wiring harness ( carefully inspected all plugs on body and harness and cleaned connections and applied dielectric grease)
2. plugs cap rotor ngk wires
3. coolant temp sensor
4. both knock sensors with densos
5. both o2s relocated to pair ports replaced with ntks
6. Deleted all vacuum bull**** associated with smog and pair and everything in between.
7. Phh bypass with all small hoses replaced and breeze clamps on everything.
8. Ecu with known good ecu
9. egr is bypassed and is not cooking the new harness
10. new pcv and hoses associated with it.
11. checked all body harness plugs in fuse box underneath, making sure that there are no connections pushed out.
12. A box of tissues to wipe away the tears of defeat and frustration
Please someone with some knowledge of the code #12 distributor ne signal comment. Please. I have read in other threads that it could mean a bad contact in the distributor. I have read somewhere else that the code can be iac problems, also read it can be a coil problem but have ohmed and it read fine. I have narrowed down a whole lot of the issues that were highlighted by members on my first post. I am going to check the ohms on the distributor when it stops raining today. I have a spare dizzy iac and tps on the shelf used but I am really tired of throwing all my weekends and money chasing in the wrong directions. Someone with some distributor signal knowledge help me out.
1. known good wiring harness ( carefully inspected all plugs on body and harness and cleaned connections and applied dielectric grease)
2. plugs cap rotor ngk wires
3. coolant temp sensor
4. both knock sensors with densos
5. both o2s relocated to pair ports replaced with ntks
6. Deleted all vacuum bull**** associated with smog and pair and everything in between.
7. Phh bypass with all small hoses replaced and breeze clamps on everything.
8. Ecu with known good ecu
9. egr is bypassed and is not cooking the new harness
10. new pcv and hoses associated with it.
11. checked all body harness plugs in fuse box underneath, making sure that there are no connections pushed out.
12. A box of tissues to wipe away the tears of defeat and frustration
Please someone with some knowledge of the code #12 distributor ne signal comment. Please. I have read in other threads that it could mean a bad contact in the distributor. I have read somewhere else that the code can be iac problems, also read it can be a coil problem but have ohmed and it read fine. I have narrowed down a whole lot of the issues that were highlighted by members on my first post. I am going to check the ohms on the distributor when it stops raining today. I have a spare dizzy iac and tps on the shelf used but I am really tired of throwing all my weekends and money chasing in the wrong directions. Someone with some distributor signal knowledge help me out.
I don't usually quote myself but, If you have a distributor and you are getting a NE signal from the Distributor why don't you change it?
- Thread starter
- #50
I absolutely checked to see if the pick up was loose and it was not.
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- #51
Thank you though.
Even if the pickup was not loose inside there , if you are getting code for the distributor and you have a spare. Why not change it? Only takes about 10 minutes max.
- Thread starter
- #53
That’s the next step. Then the coil and iac thanks again
