1994 FZJ80 re-paint- 2-Stage process w/ closure of roof rack (1 Viewer)

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lp2k

Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Threads
80
Messages
1,704
Location
Gotha, Florida (near the dog)
Re-painting your rig is very hard and expensive, but the end result is gorgeous and I something I am proud of.

Click here for pics of my rig before the painting and what I had to asses (2014) [yea i am a bit on the slow side, just took me 7 years but who is counting right?.

3/15-3/22/2021- begin removing the running board, flares and other nick nacks off the rig installed circa 1994.

EEDC3456-9958-458B-A962-FEEB18F19E1F.jpeg



On 3/22/2021, I arrived at the body shop in Tampa to begin removing the lights, the front guard which was tack welded onto the frame and any other part to make the painting go on nice and neat.
I am planning on putting an ARB so care had to be taken to get the bolts off and not damage the opening.
As you can tell, the paint on my rig was very bad.

Headlight and grille removal:
  1. Remove the center grille (5 JIS screws, 2 on each side and 1 in the center)
  2. Remove the amber corner light. It is held in with 1 JIS screw and you gently pull it towards you to remove the light.
  3. Un-bolt 4 10mm bolts holding the headlight into the frame.
  4. Go ahead and follow the instructions on how to twist the bulbs out. Wipe off the dirt and you will see instructions. Once you remove the bulbs, hold them by the base, wipe off your fingerprints and place them into the headlight. Helps to keep things organize and not bang them up.
  5. Thread all bolts and screws back into their holes so you do not loose anything


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Supply run to the auto body shop to get materials needed.

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Back to the shop.
Time to think about the roof. I went ahead and decided to close up the 2 larger roof racks on the sides and keep the 4 inner ribs. I also decided to close the rear dust visor as it was starting to rust. I am planning a roof rack and roof tent. The items I removed do not fit my future needs for the rig.

  • The outer 2 racks have 2 JIS screws in each cap. I spent the previous week soaking them with penetration oil and was able to get 7 of them out without any issue. The last screw had to be cut off with a small hacksaw.
  • The 4 inner ribs are held on with JIS screws and they were sprayed earlier and came off without any issues.
  • Inner 4 ribs SLIDE OUT. These will be re-used.
  • I then cleaned the rubber with PREPSOL and masked it up. Wiping them down will allow the masking tape to stick better.
  • The holes are sanded as there was surface rust.
I want to add- I had to buy the 2 very long rubber moldings that go on the roof drip edge as well as a new under hood mat. Both were brittle and the under hood mat crumbled when trying to get access to the nozzles and all 12 snaps broke. $500 in 3 parts I really didn't plan on, but had to in order to do the job.

INSULATOR, HOOD - Courtesy Toyota of Brandon$241.1453341-60100
MOULDING, ROOF DRIP SIDE FINISH, RH$111.2175551-60020
MOULDING, ROOF DRIP SIDE FINISH, LH$111.2175552-60020
CLIP(FOR HOOD INSULATOR)$1.34 x 12 = $16.0890467-09014

Since the nozzles broke off, I am going to do the 3 nozzle upgrade.

NOZZLE SUB-ASSY, WASHER$9.02 x 2 = $18.0485381-42070

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That green compound laid is a fiberglass type of bondo. Once it dries, it will be sanded and then epoxy over with the USC Icing (Polyester Finishing putty) Pinholes will be filled with the red putty if they form.
The side mirrors were also removed. I carefully pried the rubber part off so the mirror itself could be sanded and re-painted. I hate over spray!

Time to take care of 27 years worth of dings and bumps son!

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Now it is time to scuff it up. The whole truck is sanded 2 times with the DA using 300 grit paper. A DA sander (dual action), is an orbital sander. The dual actions are combined, they are (1) the circular rotation of the head, and (2), the orbital or oval movement of the head.

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3/24/2021
This was a lot of work to go through the whole car with the DA 2 times. I am putting in about 12 hours a day as I am working on the truck myself with a helper from time to time.
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Time to prime all of the places where we had to fix the bumps and holes. It was lightly washed and then it is going into the paint booth. Using the air compressor, we blew as much of the dirt off.
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Care is given to the fender flares, which were cracked by road damage by the PO. I wanted them repaired and ready to be put back onto the truck in case I do not go with the Kut Snake style fenders and keep my options open.
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It is time to call the paint shops and get quotes for the PPG paint I want to use on the truck. To paint the entire truck, it will require 3 quarts. With a 1:1 ratio, that will make over a gallon. I really want someone to call around and check the price of this paint, Shop Line JBP 6M1 3 quarts. No shortcuts here.


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Cowl and fender flares were the first to be sanded and painted.
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3/25-3/26/2021
The worst days of my life begin. Wet sanding the entire truck by hand followed by a wash with soap and air drying. Also, washing out the jams and creases (think a full detail at the wash)
  1. Wet sand with 400 grit, wash with soap, and air dry
  2. Wet sand with 600 grit, wash with soap, and air dry
  3. Wet sand with 800 grit, wash with soap, and air dry
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3/26/2021 late afternoon.
Final wash before going inside to be masked up.
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3/27/2021
Time to start masking the car up. This took all day. If you look close at the hatch and the last photo, I double edged the jams with foam tape to prevent overspray into the jams and making sure all of the lights, the locks, the rear emblem and wiper are all off. I want this to look as close to original as possible.
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Had to apply some red putty as some pinholes were noticed


The rig windows are masked and also that blacked out side area near the windows.
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In this photo you can see the amount of stuff taken off the rear hatch. So much care went into masking the rubber gasket.
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Exceeded the limit of photos

3/29/2021
Time for the hard part to begin, 1 base coat, 3 coats of the 6M1 Pearl Green and then 3 coats of clear coat.
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Here she is today, Still needs to be waxed and assembled, but I am proud so far. Back to getting my axles swapped into her.

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Lol you are right

I’m over here building an overland type rig and looking at all these trails I want to go on which will probably not happen for some time ... worst case is I just use it to shuffle the family to and from the beach or a local camp site :bang:
 
More unicorns killed in restoring this rig, mostly because they were cracked and destroyed. The outside molding was all peeling up from the sun. The louvers were all cracked from the POS PO.

MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, RH$20.7675660-60010
MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, LH$20.7675670-60010
MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, RH$34.1275710-60011
MOULDING ASSY, REAR DOOR BELT, LH$34.4375740-60010
MOULDING ASSY, REAR DOOR BELT, RH$33.3875730-60010
MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, LH$34.1275720-60011
LOUVER, QUATER VENTILATION, RH$47.4262905-60020
LOUVER, QUATER VENTILATION, LH$48.4662906-60020

These mouldings I bought are sold on partsouq.com and NOT THE OEM JET BLACK. They have this trim of chrome in them.

If you want the jet black OEM, you have to call the USA toyota dealers and here is the part number for those. Notice the 2 in the last set of part numbers below from my table above. They run about $80 each plus tax so for 6 pieces, you are at $480 for trim... (and they will curl up at the edges in 20 years)

75710-60021 MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, RH
75740-60020 REAR DOOR BELT, LH.
75730-60020 MOULDING ASSY, REAR DOOR BELT, RH
75720-60021 MOULDING ASSY, FRONT DOOR BELT, LH
75660-60020 MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, RH
75670-60020 MOULDING, QUARTER BELT, LH
 
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You’ve inspired me
 
Great post! And the finished product looks incredible.

I am at the very beginning stage. I noticed you used 300 to start, I started with 150 to get through the peeling clear coat, then 220, then 320 and 400. Wasn't planning on going higher than 400 before applying primer. I wish I had an enclosed area as I might try to shoot the paint myself.

Thanks again for the post.
 
This is fantastic work. Thank you for posting a thorough thread with part numbers. I may have to go down this road eventually.

Besides the $1k in odds and ends, how much did the primer, base and clear run you?
 
Hey thanks @Jaysjammin my truck has been with me for 10 years and I have zero plans of letting her go. I’d say to buy as much of the parts I’ve replaced or save up now for it since you never want to hear “it’s discontinued” so sand bag it now and not later.

So I didn’t use much primer, I’d say around $100 worth. I didn’t sand to metal in many spots, only spots with rust I sand to metal or where the clear coat was really badly cracked. Those areas received a spray of primer.

once the primer went down, we mixed up green paint we had laying around to lay what’s called a guide coat. You can watch a vid YouTube that explains this better than I can. This helps even out the tone and the surface. It’s mostly sanded off with 800 or higher grit.

the base coat, this is the bread and butter. This is where you ask yourself what type of job your doing, I say do a quality job so it will help you to resale the rig and last you a long time and you can get the value and pride.

The best in my opinion is PPG, most body shops have a distributor for this type of paint. The land cruiser needs about 3 quarts for frame of reference and then you will need reducer. Since you paint the whole truck you need slow reducer (it needs to be wet when you start to when you finish) a body man can explain further. Medium hardner is used for those quick in and out jobs. For PPG paint, and if you have any pearl flakes like the 6M1 green, it will be up there but it’s worth it.

the clear coat was around $200 , it’s in the photo up ahead with the supplies in the trunk of the car. You will see the 5 gallon pail of reducer , a blue looking container “U-Pol” that’s the clear coat. I think U Pol is the clear coat used on Mercedes and BMW. All the shop materials was about $1600 but I’d expect prices have gone up since then. The value of this paint job, including the cost of parts that broke due to age, labor and materials is around $6,500-$7,500.

Do not let it discourage you, since it is a lot of work. I spent about 100 hours working on this. Wet sanding was torture.
 
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Hey thanks @Jaysjammin my truck has been with me for 10 years and I have zero plans of letting her go. I’d say to buy as much of the parts I’ve replaced or save up now for it since you never want to hear “it’s discontinued” so sand bag it now and not later.

So I didn’t use much primer, I’d say around $100 worth. I didn’t sand to metal in many spots, only spots with rust I sand to metal or where the clear coat was really badly cracked. Those areas received a spray of primer.

once the primer went down, we mixed up green paint we had laying around to lay what’s called a guide coat. You can watch a vid YouTube that explains this better than I can. This helps even out the tone and the surface. It’s mostly sanded off with 800 or higher grit.

the base coat, this is the bread and butter. This is where you ask yourself what type of job your doing, I say do a quality job so it will help you to resale the rig and last you a long time and you can get the value and pride.

The best in my opinion is PPG, most body shops have a distributor for this type of paint. The land cruiser needs about 3 quarts for frame of reference and then you will need reducer. Since you paint the whole truck you need slow reducer (it needs to be wet when you start to when you finish) a body man can explain further. Medium hardner is used for those quick in and out jobs. For PPG paint, and if you have any pearl flakes like the 6M1 green, it will be up there but it’s worth it.

the clear coat was around $200 , it’s in the photo up ahead with the supplies in the trunk of the car. You will see the 5 gallon pail of reducer , a blue looking container “U-Pol” that’s the clear coat. I think U Pol is the clear coat used on Mercedes and BMW. All the shop materials was about $1600 but I’d expect prices have gone up since then. The value of this paint job, including the cost of parts that broke due to age, labor and materials is around $6,500-$7,500.

Do not let it discourage you, since it is a lot of work. I spent about 100 hours working on this. Wet sanding was torture.
Thanks man! That was a very detailed answer and I will bookmark it for future reference. It's definitely a labor of love and I will likely do a hundred hours of research before I even start. New armor is looking fantastic!
 
Looks great!

Is your $6500-$7500 estimate excluding your labor? Or is that the price to hand it over to someone and do the work to this point? Impressed!
 
Here is how she is progressing.

4x4Labs double swing out rear bumper with ladder and gas rack and sliders.
Dobinson front bumper with winch tray

View attachment 2824737

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I've been so busy with my paint job I haven't checked in to see how yours is going. It looks amazing to say the least. I am adding my ARB bumper this weekend. Going to look into that rear bumper as well, it looks sturdy. What was the cost?
 
Looks great!

Is your $6500-$7500 estimate excluding your labor? Or is that the price to hand it over to someone and do the work to this point? Impressed!
Hey @spazzyfry123 Tyler ! Hoping we can meet up soon for a round. So that is the price if you drop it off at a professional shop and ask for top shelf material/ paint. I posted the price somewhere in the thread I paid and this is before the pricing increases so idk what it would be now.

I've been so busy with my paint job I haven't checked in to see how yours is going. It looks amazing to say the least. I am adding my ARB bumper this weekend. Going to look into that rear bumper as well, it looks sturdy. What was the cost?

@jomichael the rear bumper is a 4x4Labs and I was part of the group buy last year. I had to cut the rear cross member which I wasn’t happy about as mine wasn’t even rusted but the functionality won. If I could, I’d prob pay more for the Slee and avoid the steep approaches lol
 
Hey @spazzyfry123 Tyler ! Hoping we can meet up soon for a round. So that is the price if you drop it off at a professional shop and ask for top shelf material/ paint. I posted the price somewhere in the thread I paid and this is before the pricing increases so idk what it would be now.



@jomichael the rear bumper is a 4x4Labs and I was part of the group buy last year. I had to cut the rear cross member which I wasn’t happy about as mine wasn’t even rusted but the functionality won. If I could, I’d prob pay more for the Slee and avoid the steep approaches lol
I'm always good for a round or three, Leon! Still got the cargo mat laying around for ya.

I've also got a 6M1 truck. Lots of folks talk smack, but I for one love the color, and yours shows why. My paint isn't terrible, but the hood is starting to fade and has me thinking of a potential repaint or wrap. If $6500 gets me the ability to hand someone the keys and it comes back looking like yours... I may be heading your way soon. A wrap is likely half that cost. Why not paint at that price?
 
@jomichael the rear bumper is a 4x4Labs and I was part of the group buy last year. I had to cut the rear cross member which I wasn’t happy about as mine wasn’t even rusted but the functionality won. If I could, I’d prob pay more for the Slee and avoid the steep approaches lol
Good to know, I'm not cutting up my rust free baby!
 

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