1994 FZJ80 5.3L swap aka Bumpkinator (1 Viewer)

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More pictures of the motor placement and clearance:

The placement of my motor was near center with a little bias to the driver side. As you can see in the pictures it is close but with the low mount stock Chevy Air Conditioner pump that came with my motor, and by using a remote reservoir for the power steering pump it will fit with a lot of room.

Remote Reservoir: AAF-ALL36132
Remote reservoir kit for Power Steering Pump: PFN-SR2545-10K

Note: I mounted the remote reservoir using customized piece of bracket left over from the deleted throttle cable, and mounted it to the charcoal canister located high on the driver side fender. This location will allow me to make a custom hose from the outlet on the bottom of the canister, that will have enough angle so as to make sure the fluid gravity flows from the canister into the pump. I chose the largest canister that I could fit under the hood and still have an angle that would flow.
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A couple more photos of the mocked up remote reservoir location, and frame clearance of the AC pump. I don't have photos of the back side of the AC pump but it has plenty of clearance from the motor mounts and frame on all sides.

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Air intake:
I spent way too much time researching the issue of Air intake and all of the pundits opinions across the different websites concerning LS-1 swaps. My final conclusion was that nobody really knows what they are talking about. So as long as air goes in one end and out the other with the least amount of restriction possible you will have attained the optimal air intake system available for your build. However; extra points go to those who can make it look good as well as functional, and I think that I accomplished both of these in my design :)
I chose to use an air intake box from a 1997 4.5L Toyota FZJ80, because the 1994 FZJ80 air intake box in my vehicle has a square outlet that is utterly impossible to make work with any after market fittings on the market. So I did some picture hunting and forum diving until I found the 1997 FZJ80 air intake. I chose the 1997 intake box because the 97 has a fixed exit that is almost 3.75" in diameter and it fits exactly into the 94 mounting location. This would allow me to be able to keep my snorkel as well without any modification.
The only modification of the 1997 air intake box that was needed was to remove the hanger brackets for the 1997 Toyota MAF sensor, and purchase an adapter kit (B005BHUSNG) to increase the intake diameter up to what I needed for the Chevy MAF that came with my engine, and the intake that I chose. Additional adapters and fittings are as follows. (2) 4" silicone couplings (B001OMK53K), (5) (sme-240400) hose clamps, and (1) 3.5"x4" silicon intake adapter (B001OMK5NA). For my specific build I also needed to purchase a three to four bolt LS-1 throttle body adapter (icb-551567).
To make the airflow as efficient as possible I placed the Chevy MAF right off of the intake box outlet, and increased to 4" for the rest of the intake tubing. It is my well read interpretation of the interwebz that this will provide the straightest air flow across the MAF sensor for my configuration and design, whilst ensuring maximum intake volume for the motor. The angle required to make the stock intake location meet up with the engine in my configuration required an approximately 110 degree bend at the center line of the motor. I purchased a solid 4" aluminum tube from Spectre racing that was just about perfect and only needed to be trimmed a little bit on either end to fit after all was set in place (overview).
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NOTE: the HDJ80 intake will fit and allow the stock snorkel to remain as well. And I strongly considered this option as it was rumored to flow better than the 97 FZJ80 intake (with snorkel). But I ultimately decided that this was a better option for me mostly because the HDJ80 is like a bazzilion dollars more than the FZJ80 model and that is if you can find them online. So be warned everyone who is selling the HDJ80 air intake box knows they are hard to find and prices them accordingly (In the US at least).
 
Nice job. FYI, I believe there is a ground that the gm ecu needs to see through the gm nss when in drive or else it won't lock up the torque converter.
Dash gear position lights

The 4L60E transmission is a DBW that displays the gear position via digital signal. In order for me to have the gear selection lights in the dash to work I had to come up with a hack or buy a fancy converter box. I chose to go full redneck and try something different.

The Toyota transmission gets the gear position signal from the neutral safety switch on my model year LC.
The shifter shaft on the 4L60E transmission is only a little bit larger than the Toyota shaft. So I thought maybe I could bumpkin rig the Toyota NSS onto the Chevy transmission.

I started by removing the Chevy NSS from its mounting plate and then aligning theToyota NSS over the center of the hole where the shaft goes through.

after a few hundred test fits and fine tunings I was able to find the proper location of the Toyota NSS and drill holes in the Chevy NSS mounting plate to hold it.

I then used longer screws to hold the Toyota NSS to the mounting plate threading into three existing holes on the body of the Toyota NSS.

next I had to drill out the center of the Toyota NSS to fit the Chevy shaft snugly 5/8”.

Note: in the pictures you can see where I left some of the threads on the selector collar as I originally planned to make them work on the flat part of the Chevy shaft. these broke off during test fits and weren’t needed as the shaft fits snugly enough to operate the selector once everything is bolted in place with the shift lever torqued.View attachment 2163057View attachment 2163058View attachment 2163059View attachment 2163060View attachment 2163061
 

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