1994 1fz-fe timing chain jumped?, 200800 miles (1 Viewer)

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I am try to figure out if anyone has ever heard of a timing chain jumping. Today I jumpered e1-te1, marked the 3 degree location on the engine and the groove on the crankshaft pulley. Connected the timing light to the battery and the number one spark plug wire(verified this multiple times). I started and ran the engine to normal operating temperatures then checked the timing. The timing mark on the crank shaft pulley was (looking at the front of the engine) at the 3'oclock position(well away from the stationary marks on the engine). All rotations of the distributor would not get the mark anywhere near the zero mark muchness the 3 degree position.

so I have concluded a couple of things:

1) The timing light is bad. Possible highly unlikely but possible
2) The shaft on the distributors have moved or is broke, or something.
3) or the timing chain has jumped
 
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crap hit send before ready...

This is the first time I have checked the timing.

I know the jumper is working the check engine light flashes

The thing starts up right every time. Just very rough/horrible during accelerations.

This is the first time I ever posted to this site so if this has already been covered, my apologies.
 
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plugs, fuel filter, mf boot, exhuast catalyst, brakes all around, a/c stuff, pcv valve

nothing i can think of that impact the timing like this
 

inkpot

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Are the plug wires off by one position on the dizzy? If you had the dizzy off to do the O ring did you replace it one tooth off?
 
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Hard to say not knowing the history of truck or how long this has been running bad. Could be something simple ( but I doubt it) as timing light with an advance setting. To answer your question I would think the chain wouldn't jump. The chain could have been installed a tooth off (during HD change) and possibly the distributor off 180. Could also be your mark- maybe check TDC with plug out and make sure marks agree. Good luck
 
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Old plug wires brittle or cracked?
Do you have a cracked air intake tube?
Oil/water around your plugs inside your valve cover plug holes?

Just some thoughts.
 

Howard705

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How did it run before? What led up to this? BTW I have had two timing lights years ago, that would work but were WAY off on the light timing-one being a Snap -On- TWICE. You can pull the dist. and advance it a tooth (as if the slot would let you keep turning it BUT the ROTOR will need to be turned the opposite way-since it rotates toward the body) then see where you can get the marks and if it runs better. retarded gives horrible acceleration.
 
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Do this before doing anything. Rotate your harmonic balance to have the notch on 0. Then open your distributor and make sure it is at 11 o'clock. Then attach your distributor housing tight enough where you can adjust accordingly. Turn motor on and adjust where idle is at 650 normal operating temp and then you are good to go. If problem still persists then it's something else. But your timing would be correct.
 
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Are the plug wires off by one position on the dizzy? If you had the dizzy off to do the O ring did you replace it one tooth off?
Im not sure what the dizzy is but if it the distributor then no this was not off
 
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Old plug wires brittle or cracked?
Do you have a cracked air intake tube?
Oil/water around your plugs inside your valve cover plug holes?

Just some thoughts.
The plug wires look good. I've checked them closely. No oil/water.
 
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How did it run before? What led up to this? BTW I have had two timing lights years ago, that would work but were WAY off on the light timing-one being a Snap -On- TWICE. You can pull the dist. and advance it a tooth (as if the slot would let you keep turning it BUT the ROTOR will need to be turned the opposite way-since it rotates toward the body) then see where you can get the marks and if it runs better. retarded gives horrible acceleration.

The timing light might be suspect.

With the timing mark on the crank sift pulley being of at the 3 o'clock position I thought this was to far in advance but your saying it is retard? Could you clarify?
 
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Do this before doing anything. Rotate your harmonic balance to have the notch on 0. Then open your distributor and make sure it is at 11 o'clock. Then attach your distributor housing tight enough where you can adjust accordingly. Turn motor on and adjust where idle is at 650 normal operating temp and then you are good to go. If problem still persists then it's something else. But your timing would be correct.

This makes sense and I will try. will advise.
 

inkpot

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Im not sure what the dizzy is but if it the distributor then no this was not off

Dizzy is distributor. The timing chain runs the cams/valves. If it jumped you would probably notice serious performance change. I would repeat test with known good timing light. Make real sure you put the inductive lead on the #1 plug wire, and as mentioned, make sure the timing adjustment dial is zeroed out if the light has this feature. John
 

Howard705

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The timing light might be suspect.

With the timing mark on the crank sift pulley being of at the 3 o'clock position I thought this was to far in advance but your saying it is retard? Could you clarify?

The crank turns clockwise-advancing is to left-toward before tdc-retard to right- the timing mark's on top. each inch in circumference probably around 20 degrees . every cylinder fires at each 60 degrees crank rotation(2 rotations=each cyl fires).
 

ppc

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I think it would be easier to understand that each cylinder reaches TDC - Top Dead Center one per revolution so there is one cylinder in that position every 60 degrees. It takes two revolutions to complete the 4 cycle with the first time in compression and the second expelling exhaust. When setting the timing you need to make sure that #1 cylinder is at TDC for compression then open the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing approximately to the #1 plug wire position.
 

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