1993 transmission acting up (throws out of gear, lost reverse, starting in higher gear)

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So finally found some time to play with it. Here is what I found. PO deleted the plug (I guess it broke or was broken) and wired the wires to each other. They're different colors going to different colors. Non of them match so I assume he transferred whatever colors came and left the connector. Where could I find wires colors for this connector to make sure he didn't get it wrong?
Thanks.

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Also there seem to be 7 wires coming from the engine side but 8 wires going to transmission... One was either connected but fell out when I took electrical tape off or not sure what happened. It does have the pin from the connector still. (Yellow on the pic)
 

PNWTreeOctopus

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@Malleus posted this awhile back for another user. GL!
 
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@Malleus posted this awhile back for another user. GL!
thanks, let me go check
 
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thanks, let me go check

@Malleus posted this awhile back for another user. GL!
Close but I think 94 and 93 are different. I'm looking though, thanks
 
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So, update. I checked the wires, they seems to be connected properly. Noticed something new now, more of a system to when the problem starts. I had played with the kick-down cable a while back and then with the NSS and after that it now seems to drive and switch gears well first 10-15 minutes. Then it throws me out out THIRD gear and then it's kind of chaotic, sometimes it kicks back in, sometimes not, sometimes I lose first gear and it starts with third or something like that.
Feels like something hits the temperature and there it goes.
I'm back at square one :\
 
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One thing I do want to add. The bundle of wires that goes from the two large connectors by the starter, they are all exposed, the plastic sleeve has crumbled away. The wires are run on the top of the transmission.
 
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I have all the EWDs for every model year except 1993. I would think the wire colors are the same as the 1994, but I don't have a 1993 lying around to verify that.

The PO probably had a bad case of PHH puke in the connectors, and rather than clean them out, he butt spliced them. Or a "professional" stereo installer did it for him.

I will say that, since I'm refurbishing my 07-1995 engine harness, I have found that the pinouts and wire colors, for the EC1 connector (that's the pair you don't have), do not match the 1995 EWD. I was expecting that for my 01-1995, since it was sort of a transition year model and shares a lot of (undocumented) 1994 parts, but the discrepancy with the 07-1995 bothers me.

The EWD will get you from the ECU to the transmission. You'd have to take the harness apart to find which wires (colors, I mean) go to which terminals in the ECU and the transmission; there are wire color changes and splices in there that are not documented in the EWD. Not something I'd recommend for the faint of heart.

The EC1 connectors (those are the ones the PO cut out) are 90980-11087 (female, 12P, waterproof) (this is the engine side) & 90980-11086 (male, 12P, waterproof), and the terminals are type 2.3 II; you'll need 11 pairs. I'd go to Ballenger (they're really helpful) for these; you can get them from Toyota, but their just reselling Sumitomo's stuff, and they're not assembling it for you, so why bother? The wiring harness manufacturer Toyota used wrapped the housings in foam; they don't come that way.

These are on pages F-10 (terminals), D-20 (f), D-197 (m) E-32, (both) and G-7 (both) of the wiring harness repair manual. There's a copy in the Resources section.

FWIW, I'd highly recommend getting a length of split loom for the exposed wires, or you'll really have a mess on your hands. You need some that is explicitly sold for engine bay and exterior use. In a pinch, this will work, but not long term. This PVC tape is a good match for the OEM taped ends of the split loom wrap; I'm using it to replace the tape I remove. Taping the ends of the split loom is at least as important as putting it on, IMHO. It doesn't create a hermetic seal, but it's pretty good at keeping most crap out.

HTH
 
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I have all the EWDs for every model year except 1993. I would think the wire colors are the same as the 1994, but I don't have a 1993 lying around to verify that.

The PO probably had a bad case of PHH puke in the connectors, and rather than clean them out, he butt spliced them. Or a "professional" stereo installer did it for him.

I will say that, since I'm refurbishing my 07-1995 engine harness, I have found that the pinouts and wire colors, for the EC1 connector (that's the pair you don't have), do not match the 1995 EWD. I was expecting that for my 01-1995, since it was sort of a transition year model and shares a lot of (undocumented) 1994 parts, but the discrepancy with the 07-1995 bothers me.

The EWD will get you from the ECU to the transmission. You'd have to take the harness apart to find which wires (colors, I mean) go to which terminals in the ECU and the transmission; there are wire color changes and splices in there that are not documented in the EWD. Not something I'd recommend for the faint of heart.

The EC1 connectors (those are the ones the PO cut out) are 90980-11087 (female, 12P, waterproof) (this is the engine side) & 90980-11086 (male, 12P, waterproof), and the terminals are type 2.3 II; you'll need 11 pairs. I'd go to Ballenger (they're really helpful) for these; you can get them from Toyota, but their just reselling Sumitomo's stuff, and they're not assembling it for you, so why bother? The wiring harness manufacturer Toyota used wrapped the housings in foam; they don't come that way.

These are on pages F-10 (terminals), D-20 (f), D-197 (m) E-32, (both) and G-7 (both) of the wiring harness repair manual. There's a copy in the Resources section.

FWIW, I'd highly recommend getting a length of split loom for the exposed wires, or you'll really have a mess on your hands. You need some that is explicitly sold for engine bay and exterior use. In a pinch, this will work, but not long term. This PVC tape is a good match for the OEM taped ends of the split loom wrap; I'm using it to replace the tape I remove. Taping the ends of the split loom is at least as important as putting it on, IMHO. It doesn't create a hermetic seal, but it's pretty good at keeping most crap out.

HTH
Thank you. Yes I should have mentioned, somebody here did give me the wires colors scheme so that what I went with to check mine. Yes, the wire loom is on my list to fix. I hope I can just feed one end at the engine bay by the starter and catch it on the other side of the transmission.
But it still feel like this has something to do with the temperature. Maybe I need to check what the PO did with the solenoids and all that.
Thanks!
 

PNWTreeOctopus

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So the temp sensor was not it. It's popping out of third gear now when it gets hot. My fluid level is good. First 13 minutes it shifts fine, then third pops and then it's a gamble, I sometimes lose reverse too. Electrical connections seem fine.
 
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Ok guys, finally some positive update! I posted this question on a Facebook group and a good man Jody Kaufman (I'm sure your on this forum) said he had exactly same issues and suggested to look at the TCU board and look for a blown capacitor. Bingo!!! I had two bad ones! Total cost is $0.60! My new to me 80 is in business!!!
Thank you, Jody! Great to have cool people like you! Thanks everyone who has been trying to help as well! Cheers!

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I think this is the first time I've seen it on a Land Cruiser. For those who haven't heard of the problem with Toyota's capacitors going bad:

 
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I think this is the first time I've seen it on a Land Cruiser. For those who haven't heard of the problem with Toyota's capacitors going bad:

Interesting, thanks!!
 

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