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Thanks for the info. As far as I can tell there's no alarm system. I can't find anything in the manual that talks about one and I don't see an aftermarket install. I think I'll replace both battery cables and see if that works.
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Poor connection at battery terminals.I just remembered something about the first time this happened. I thought it was a dead battery so I put a jumper box on it. It started but it took everything the box had and hot cables to do it. Let it run, shut it off and no start. I put a charger on it and the charger showed the battery wouldn't take a charge, so I think dead battery even though its new. My neighbor comes by, suggests taking the negative cable off and now the battery not only will take a charge but shows full charge and the battery tests 13 plus volts. Does that tell anybody anything ?
That's a good clue. Given that it cranks strong, it starts to point away from weak battery or a battery that won't hold a charge.
I'd also venture that a bad ground cable or main positive cable running to the starter is less likely because if those are degraded, the typical symptom is a consistent weak crank, not an intermittent strong crank. But, if you still suspect those, you can also verify those with starter jumper cables run from the starter main (thick diameter wire) lug back to the positive battery post and same for grounding the body of the starter right to the negative battery post.
I’m in Indiana to watch some sprint cars this weekend so will let you know next week what I’m trying. ThanksThat's a good clue. Given that it cranks strong, it starts to point away from weak battery or a battery that won't hold a charge.
I'd also venture that a bad ground cable or main positive cable running to the starter is less likely because if those are degraded, the typical symptom is a consistent weak crank, not an intermittent strong crank. But, if you still suspect those, you can also verify those with starter jumper cables run from the starter main (thick diameter wire) lug back to the positive battery post and same for grounding the body of the starter right to the negative battery post.
Should be really easy. Just try not to tweak your other wires when undoing the screws or plugs.I'm finally getting back to looking at this problem. The good news is after 3 weeks sitting in the garage it started right up, so the problem still hasn't reoccurred . Early in this thread somebody mentioned looking at the fusible links, and I thought I did. I didn't. When I started in to getting ready to replace the battery cables I found the real fusible links and they look really rough. So I've ordered 2 fusible links and a new junction box and will replace those. It looks pretty straight forward. Any tricks to replacing those that will bite me ?
What do your dash lights do when in no-crank status? Do they all dim or go off, regardless of key position?It cranks strong and starts right up.