Builds Sold! Land Crusher - 1993 FZJ80 3x Locked - Introduction and Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[ZackR]

I'd still say it's worth it to change those gaskets since everything is opened up. The baffle is not removable that I'm aware of but it wasn't an issue since I just cleaned it out with brake cleaner.

In addition to the valve cover gasket removing the valve cover makes it easy to replace the PCV valve and the brittle grommet that falls in. This seals up the vacuum system.

For the wiring I wrapped mine in electrical tape, then covered it with new wire loom, then zip tied the loom together. The key thing for people with EGR is to zip tie the harness to the clip (or if the clip is broken the clip mount) so that it won't contact the EGR pipe. Even without EGR still secure the harness so it doesn't move around.

The valve cover gasket is a few hour project at most. The oil pump cover gasket is more involved but makes sense to do since its one of the top three oil leak locations (valve cover gasket and distributor O ring are the others). If you have the fan and belts removed you are right in the zone to tackle the oil pump cover. With the radiator out its even better.

 

[Will Van]

I'd still say it's worth it to change those gaskets since everything is opened up. The baffle is not removable that I'm aware of but it wasn't an issue since I just cleaned it out with brake cleaner.

In addition to the valve cover gasket removing the valve cover makes it easy to replace the PCV valve and the brittle grommet that falls in. This seals up the vacuum system.

For the wiring I wrapped mine in electrical tape, then covered it with new wire loom, then zip tied the loom together. The key thing for people with EGR is to zip tie the harness to the clip (or if the clip is broken the clip mount) so that it won't contact the EGR pipe. Even without EGR still secure the harness so it doesn't move around.

The valve cover gasket is a few hour project at most. The oil pump cover gasket is more involved but makes sense to do since its one of the top three oil leak locations (valve cover gasket and distributor O ring are the others). If you have the fan and belts removed you are right in the zone to tackle the oil pump cover. With the radiator out its even better.

Damnit, you've convinced me. Do you know the part numbers for the oil pump cover gasket and the distributor O-ring?

Any chance you have a few links to writeups on how to change them?

TIA

Edit: Found a writeup (How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics). Just need the correct gasket PN now.

Edit Again: PNs are lower in the writeup I linked above.

Idler Pulley Part # 16603-66010
Oil Pump Seal Part # 15188-66020
Philip head bolts part # 15183-66020 quantity #7

Front Crank Shaft Seal part #90311-52022

 

[ZackR]

Start here and PM me if needed and I can give you my phone number for tips since I recently completed the work. On my link above in this thread I have some photos and notes from how it went.

How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

Distributor O ring is easy but you will need a timing light once it's put back together to adjust the base ignition timing. I'd wait to do that one until you have the engine back together and running.

Forgot to mention the front crank seal is part of the job and isn't hard to do.

 

[Will Van]

Start here and PM me if needed and I can give you my phone number for tips since I recently completed the work. On my link above in this thread I have some photos and notes from how it went.

How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics

Distributor O ring is easy but you will need a timing light once it's put back together to adjust the base ignition timing. I'd wait to do that one until you have the engine back together and running.

Forgot to mention the front crank seal is part of the job and isn't hard to do.

Thanks! I actually had the distributor and wires replaced when I had the shop do the lift and tires. I assume they replaced the O-ring, but I'll check.

 

[Will Van]

@ZackR - Did you replace the idler pulley too?

 

[ZackR]

Thanks! I actually had the distributor and wires replaced when I had the shop do the lift and tires. I assume they replaced the O-ring, but I'll check.

If it was just a cap/rotor and wires its unlikely they pulled the distributor. Never hurts to check though.

 

[ZackR]

@ZackR - Did you replace the idler pulley too?

I didn't replace my idler pulley since it still works and didn't have much play. If it wasn't in decent shape I would just remove it rather than replace (it really isn't necessary).

 

[Will Van]

If it was just a cap/rotor and wires its unlikely they pulled the distributor. Never hurts to check though.

Any chance you know the PN for the distributor O-ring?

 

[Will Van]

Here are a few useful writeups for future reference:

HOW TO: Replace Distributor O Ring

Distributer Breather

 

[ZackR]

90099-14118

 

[Will Van]

It was hot AF today in Austin, so I didn't get out in the garage until after the sun went down. Made a little bit of progress while waiting on items to get back from powder-coater.

I used the flex-plate inspection access to put a 14mm deep impact socket on the flex plate bolt and immobilize the crank. Then used this badass 3/4" drive 38" long breaker bar to loosen the 33mm crank bolt. It was still pretty difficult to loosen. Can't imagine doing it with a smaller breaker.

I also noticed that I am randomly missing a bolt on the transmission bell housing.

I was able to follow this badass writeup and remove the oil pump cover plate (How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics). Used a #3 JIS bit, small hammer, and a 1/4" socket. They came out without a hiccup, which I was very pleased with.

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Finally, I took the opportunity to compare the OEM JIS screws with some stainless Allens I had.

The OEM screws are about 13.45mm

The M6 stainless Allen bolts I had were just a hair under 12mm.

Obviously on such a short fastener, thread engagement is important. But I can't imagine the oil pump cover sees much load.

At this point I'm not sure if I am going to replace them with new OEM screws, or aftermarket stainless torx/allens. In the perfect world I would use M6x1.0 flathead stainless steel torx that are exactly 13.45mm long. Finding flathead stainless steel M6 torx is a tall order in itself. Let alone 13.45mm long, which is an uncommon size.

 

[ZackR]

I went with OEM since they were available and are known to work .I figure another 200k before I do it again and it wasn't an issue getting the screws out .

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Made some progress today. A friend fabricated an aluminum EGR block off plate for me, so I was able to finish my EGR delete.

I also finished the PHH install and capped the coolant line under the lower intake manifold so I can bypass throttle body coolant lines.

Then I replaced the heater valve, finished the firewall heater hoses, and bypassed the rear heater.

I followed this writeup and drilled/tapped a 1/8" NPT port for my AutoMeter Water temp gauge. Koso slim water temp gauge install (Just FYI, the writeup uses a 1/8" NPT tap, but the Koso water sensor is 1/8" BSPT. So you either need a BSPT tap if you want to use Koso unit, or find 1/8" NPT water temp sensor which is much more common.)

There is a new part available for the rear heater delete. PM if interested

 

[Will Van]

There is a new part available for the rear heater delete. PM if interested

Oh! A one-piece silicone rear heater bypass?! Interested. PM sent!

 

[Will Van]

I went with OEM since they were available and are known to work .I figure another 200k before I do it again and it wasn't an issue getting the screws out.

I agree, I’m just going to use OEM.

Any suggestions on how to get the front main seal out without marring the crank nose?

 

[Will Van]

Still working on pulling the front seal.

But I got the oil pump cover plate back on and test-fit the OEM fan shroud to the Ron Davis radiator. Shroud required a little trimming/modification, but I think it fits well.

There are a few gaps where the shroud isn't flush with the radiator. I may add some foam tape to seal it up. Does anyone have any suggestions on what foam to use?

 

[ZackR]

On the crank seal I just used a flathead screwdriver with another one to pivot off of, up against the timing cover .

 

[Will Van]

Small update. I’m waiting on a bunch of random parts, so I bled the brakes and mocked up my Derale power steering cooler.

I used stainless steel nutserts in the crossmember, and you could hang a winch off of it now. Ha!

 

[Will Van]

I finally got everything back together enough to start the truck. I'm waiting on USPS to deliver the rubber exhaust isolators. And I still need to top off the trans fluid, bleed the power steering system, and tie down the battery. At that point I can drive the truck.

Once I get the truck back on the road, I need to charge the A/C system, install the bumper and sliders, and finish the dual battery setup. Plus lots of other random odds and ends.

But I just didn't want the truck to sit any longer without being mobile!

How do you think it sounds? Is that normal valvetrain noise?



How about that Otramm stainless exhaust?! The Otramm exhaust is desigend for a 95-97 with the in-line cats. I did a conversion to make it work on the 93-94. I'll do a writeup on how to convert it. I'll also get better pics and video. Sorry for the camera-flip angle. It was late last night!

 

[Will Van]

So I just realized - My dumbass started and idled the truck for an hour without any power steering fluid in the system. I hope I didn’t just burn up my brand new pump.

I’m going to fill up and report back.

I feel like an imbecile either way.