1993 3x Locked Budget Restoration - Ranch to Road Worthy - Advice Welcomed! (1 Viewer)

[mudgudgeon]

Engine bay overall looks pretty good. Looks like new rubber hoses on the engine PCV etc, and in your shot from under the manifold, vac hoses look good

It has silicone hoses on heater valve and shït clamps on those hoses that you should have on the radar to change out at some point

Looks like possibly some weeping around injector seals on the fuel rail?? Injector seal that is visible looks new though.
100% agree on the comment on the charcoal canister causing fuel smell

 

[LandLocked93]

I have no idea what it would be worth if I tried to sell it.

Well...lol not trying to encourage the idea at all but given your response confirming the code (+)...
with working lockers (+)
and rebuilt engine (+++)
@175kmi (+++)
even with the Packers advert paint
and a good interior cleaning and creaming (leather)
Minimum $15k on Craigs.

Maybe close to $25k on BaT with resolved paint and interior.
Sounds crazy I know but feel like we've seen less go for more.

 

[Beauski100]

Well...lol not trying to encourage the idea at all but given your response confirming the code (+)...
with working lockers (+)
and rebuilt engine (+++)
@175kmi (+++)
even with the Packers advert paint
and a good interior cleaning and creaming (leather)
Minimum $15k on Craigs.

Maybe close to $25k on BaT with resolved paint and interior.
Sounds crazy I know but feel like we've seen less go for more.

Let’s keep that here. Or my wife will want to list it immediately . That being said, anyone reading this with $15k. Message me!

 

[Beauski100]

Tonight the plan was to pull the throttle body and upper manifold and inspect the injectors, but look i what I found along the way. I’m a newb and learning as I go… what causes this sludge in the manifold?

 

[LandLocked93]

View attachment 2841201 … what causes this sludge in the manifold?

'Emissions return standards' as imposed upon the 1FZ in NA models specifically.
Give it a good cleaning, to include the small passageways for vacuum hoses, and install a catch can.
I use a Lowes Kobalt compressed air 'liquid separator' on the hose between PVC valve and intake manifold. It's lasted a couple years so far. (not a DD).
There are other 'cans' from which to choose of course.

edit: FYI, on the particular model pictured, be sure to silicone/FIPG/RTV the valve at the bottom of the carbonate bowl completely inoperative. It can open on vacuum and you don't want that to happen.

 

[gummycarbs]

what causes this sludge in the manifold?

Totally normal. You just need to clean it out every one or two hundred thousand miles. Your upper intake will likely have compacted carbon in it. I soaked mine in hot water and a gallon of Simple Green for around four hours, running a scrub brush through the passages every now and then. Don't forget about it, as Simple Green will eventually eat aluminum.

Check the IAC passages in the throttle body, too. They get filled with carbon.

The 1FZ-FE is like:

 

[donemilio21]

For Paint: If it is regular bedliner or rhino liner, you can try CitrisStrip paint/varnish remover. Difficulty is to keep that thing on. If it was on a truck bed, you can pour on the bed, cover with plastic and let it eat the paint off over a day or two, it will turn white/bubbly and be ready to get scrapped off.
I don't know how you could do that for vertical body parts though. Maybe remove everything first ?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

View attachment 2837647Alright here we go. After I shut off the engine I could smell gas in the engine bay. Upon initial inspection it looks like it could be leaking from the delivery pipe / injectors? Impossible to see under there. Slid my phone through and snapped a few pictures.

It doesn’t seem to run rough, so i wonder if
It could also be from a return line?

I have never tried to really worked on an engine before. But this has me excited to jump in and learn!

Its been said before but you need to inspect the Charcoal Canister. The procedure is in the FSM and its pretty straight forward. Your tank will also pressurize if its plugged up/ non functional, and it can be a pretty dramatic hiss. There are a few solutions if its not operating correctly to replace or repair.

I have no suggestions for paint, its pretty exciting! Did the PO give any explination as to why yellow on green?

 

[SerbCruiser]

@Beauski100 its been a month.. what's the status on this baby? Holiday hangover??

 

[Beauski100]

Alright getting more things ironed out. I have enlisted the help of a fellow cruiser head to due to my lack of knowledge and time. We determined the fuel leak was coming from the injectors. Every o-ring was brittle and cracked to pieces with the touch of your finger. We ordered new o-ring kits for all six injectors from rockauto. My fit replaced them and after a week and a few drives around town fuel rail was weeping fuel. dove back in thinking one ring was pinched or damaged during installation. But we found that all of the new o rings were bad. cracked and gummy. Ordered a new set of OEM rings through the dealer... Has anyone else experienced this before?

Here is the new o-ring

One Week Later

 

[gummycarbs]

Has anyone else experienced this before?

I haven't heard of that specifically, but the first rule of Cruiser Club is to always buy OEM.

(Disclaimer: I've used plenty of Gates hoses and seals, and a Dorman VSV and window motors. But don't tell anyone.)

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I haven't heard of that specifically, but the first rule of Cruiser Club is to always buy OEM.

(Disclaimer: I've used plenty of Gates hoses and seals, and a Dorman VSV and window motors. But don't tell anyone.)

Not sure either, but I was advised to replace my injector rubber parts with Toyota when I had them out to RC engineering. I assume they use a high quality part, but I decided to hedge my bets with Toyota parts so as not to have to do it again and she’ll out for new Toyota intake gaskets, since they are expensive.

Did you install using something other than fuel as a lubricant?

 

[Beauski100]

I was able to have a fellow cruiser head get it running well without any fuel leaking. (New OEM injector rings , replace fuel pressure regulator, he also replaced a few vac lines, cleaned MAF, and Throttle body while he was in there)

it was sluggish when I gave it gas around 10-20 mph but other than that. It ran smooth. After driving 100 miles it started to idle rough feel more sluggish. CEL came on - codes 25 Air - Fuel Ratio lean and 26 Air Fuel rich.

Going to start with replacing O2 sensor and go from there…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I was able to have a fellow cruiser head get it running well without any fuel leaking. (New OEM injector rings , replace fuel pressure regulator, he also replaced a few vac lines, cleaned MAF, and Throttle body while he was in there)

it was sluggish when I gave it gas around 10-20 mph but other than that. It ran smooth. After driving 100 miles it started to idle rough feel more sluggish. CEL came on - codes 25 Air - Fuel Ratio lean and 26 Air Fuel rich.

Going to start with replacing O2 sensor and go from there…

Seems sensible. Assuming you will test the O2 sensors? Will you do Toyota, the Densos or something else? Do you know the age of the sensors? Original? Mystery?

 

[Beauski100]

Seems sensible. Assuming you will test the O2 sensors? Will you do Toyota, the Densos or something else? Do you know the age of the sensors? Original? Mystery?

All great questions. Diving into the stack of receipts and the only history I have is the PO’s journal entry on 1/15/15 “installed two cat converters - $320” … I don’t know what the sensor mounts looked like before but I am pretty sure this is not factory. Haha

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Oh dear god!

 

[OffRoadScott]

That's a good question. I finished my complete rebuild 2 weeks ago. My labor was "free." Parts and machine work was at least 3x that invoice. YIKES

Look at the date on the credit card transaction, 2015.

 

[Beauski100]

Seems sensible. Assuming you will test the O2 sensors? Will you do Toyota, the Densos or something else? Do you know the age of the sensors? Original? Mystery?

I rounded off the most accessible nut. I am going to pick up an extractor set and a cheap multimeter from lowes after work to remove and test the sensors. Either way, I am leaning towards replacing them with new ones. From reading a few threads I have seen some say with a 93-94 I need to OEM to avoid doing replacing again in a year. I noticed you have 93 and @OffRoadScott you have a 94... do yall have any recommendations on brand from your personal exp?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I rounded off the most accessible nut. I am going to pick up an extractor set and a cheap multimeter from lowes after work to remove and test the sensors. Either way, I am leaning towards replacing them with new ones. From reading a few threads I have seen some say with a 93-94 I need to OEM to avoid doing replacing again in a year. I noticed you have 93 and @OffRoadScott you have a 94... do yall have any recommendations on brand from your personal exp?

I read the same threads and pulled the trigger on the Toyota ones. I just didn’t want to **** around with parts that didn’t play well with the ECU. Nobody has time for that. That being said there are still lots of folks using other O2 sensors with success. IIRC Denso ones work ok, but I would encourage you to do your homework before you shell out the cash.

Everyone is quick to say “replace your O2 sensors” around here. It seems like many times it’s justified (codes etc.) However what’s hard to untangle is how often the old o2 sensors were of poor quality, or if the replacement was part of a “throw new parts at the rig” strategy of repair. While this can make sense for our rigs that have old parts, it can get expensive very fast and often not solve the original problem.

Don’t let me dissuade you from replacing the O2 sensors, but in my own personal LC baselining/ repairing journey I found that having a good plan, and good reasons for parts was also an important factor.

I had good success with the Irwin extractor bolts from the box home improvement store when in dismantled my exhaust system (except for the ones I count reach easily). I highly recommend using some on blaster or Kroil aero foam penetrating oil on those bolts for a few days. It might help a lot. I would also suggest buying a high quality wrench to break those bolts loose. I switched from some cheesy HF wrenches to thrift store craftsman, SK, Fuller (made in Japan) and wright tools wrenches. They made a huge difference. You probably are on top of this, so please excuse if you’re dialed in on tools. Not in anyway trying to be condescending!

 

[gummycarbs]

I've been running NTK/NGK 24044 oxygen sensors in my '94 since 2017 with no problems. Appears to be discontinued, and I guess the Toyota O2 sensors for '93 - '94 are also discontinued? Some Toyota parts sites list them as available...

Repurposing 95-97 Oxygen Sensors for 93-94 1FZs

Unfortunately this is going to be one of a my few threads that is NOT photo intensive and that is just because I ran out of time before leaving town and I wasn't thinking about photos at the time. So...sorry :flipoff2: Here is the deal: 93-94 oxygen sensors from Toyota are now NLA and I'm sure...

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