1992 FJ80 multiple problems (2 Viewers)

[FJ80RivahCruiser]

What’s up guys? I’m new to the land cruiser world and wondered if anybody had some advice and since this looks like the definitive resource, I thought I’d give it a post . Last month I bought a 1992 FJ80 with about a 123k. She was at a small independent dealer and somebody stole the Catalytic converters so she sat for three years. So after he replaced the converters and she was mine the first thing I do is a semi major tune up. I replace the spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, air filter, pcv valve and oil change with filter, I can already feel a major difference in hp. The following week I was headed to Ashville, nc from Richmond, va, for a volleyball tournament, which is about 7 hours. The drive down was fine, everything went smooth and we got there with no problems. However, on the way back the LC started to overheat. We pulled over checked everything, fluids a bit low, added a little more 50/50, let the engine cool a bit and head down the road. Two hours later she does it again, and we repeat the same process. So we drive the rest of the way and get home fine about 4 more hours. The next day I flush the radiator, water goes through fine, add chemicals and water and run it for a couple hours and flush again, then I replaced the thermostat and a couple hoses (In the process of replacing the fan clutch and more hoses). I go underneath the car and find out she has more leaks than the Iraq Navy. Front axle,(already did the overhaul) Pinion oil seal on rear diff( but not a biggie), crankshaft oil seal

and it looks like somebody threw up on my transmission and under carriage and let it bake in the sun for two months, as you can see

.

Also I have this rough knock right after engaging from park, to drive or any other gear. So anyway, I follow this spill up the side of my cylinder block, through all the hoses and it looks like oil cooler

and/or cylinder head gasket

is leaking. I’ve read a few threads and you guys got me really nervous about blowing my head gasket. I’m doing all the work myself and planning on fixing everything in time and as cost efficient as possible. I’m willing to put the time in and do the work myself, but trying spend $1300, tops, and not blow a head gasket. Would somebody please give me a course of action and diagnostics? Most urgent? Etc. Please, wise, sage men, impart some knowledge on a kid in his 20’s, so in 20 years from now, I can help some poor, young, smuck.

Thanks,
Jon

P.S. I’m still trying feel out a name for her.

 

[M23TLC]

A leak is different than a sweat. Mine looks like that too and runs like a champ. Are there any puddles underneath after parking overnight? Thats a leak. Dont go tearing things apart and replacing things right off the bat. Even if you had a leak in the front main seal, lets say, it could still last years before letting go.

It depends on your lifestyle and financial situation I guess. Working on cars/trucks was great back in my early 20's, especially with friends around. Nowadays, its still satisfying and all, but Id rather spend the time and money wheelin/with the family/or doing mods. And Im only 31 now. HTH

 

[Michael Hanson]

Everything you did was great.No car likes to set that long,water blast it off and find the leaks. replace hoses and belts.Seals can last for years,but check them once a week.Radiator and heater cores Should all be flushed. Toyota red coolant only. I like Mobil one syn.10-30 change filter too.2 cents Mike

 

[M23TLC]

I could be wrong but Toyota red is only required for FZJ's I believe. Aluminum head and all. There are probably many threads on this (that I havent read)

 

[Michael Hanson]

I own a 1991. 2 cents Mike

 

[ToothDr]

A 17 year old truck that has sat for the last three years is going to require some serious PM to get it back in top shape. You have the 3FE motor, so the headgasket issue really isn't a main concern for you. Start by taking a close look at your entire truck and check out the FAQ section here on mud for all the systems that will need to be checked and brought up to speed. Also, you stated that you're going to do the work yourself. A factory service manual is a must. This website is a great resource we have quite a few 3FE experts here as well.



Pete

 

[jonheld]

First of all...relax. You have an old crusty truck that has been neglected. Take a step back and clean up the motor first. You will most likely need to replace all the gaskets. Make sure you use OEM Toyota. From your description and pics it looks like a valve cover gasket (and grommets) also replace the PCV valve and grommet while you're there; side cover gasket (right side of the motor, rectangular plate behind distributor with 100 small bolts); oil pan gasket; timing gear cover gasket and possibly crank seal. That should seal up the motor well if you take your time and clean all mating surfaces.

You might want to do a valve adjust while you're in there.

The overheating is most likely the fan clutch, but you're heading in the right direction with the cooling system.

As mentioned before, get the FSM first and have at it.

I have some random 3FE ponderings on my website. Browse away.

 

[lt1fire]

The knock you described is nothing to worry about.
If there isn't any puddles under the truck then it is sweating, not leaking and as long as fluids aren't dissappearing at an alarming rate don't worry about it.
Now your coolant dissappearing is a problem and could be a head gasket. Is there any coolant puddles appearing??

 

[blzrfn]

I had a similar problem with coolant and it turned out to be a leak in the radiator. Fill it up and let the truck get up to operating temperatures so that the radiator is pressurized then look for leaks. If it is a head gasket problem you would have white smoke coming out of your tail pipe constantly.

 

[FJ80RivahCruiser]

Thanks guys for the responses. I spent the whole day under the car, cleaning everything and it seems like everything from my transfer case to transmission to something next to the oil cooler, and crank seal have slow accumilating thick dark black liquids leaking from them. I also checked the the radiator today and found all of reserve tank is gone after filling it just last week, with only normal city driving. No puddles are found, it just seems like everything has a slow leak to it, i have checked up and down for a a leak in the radiator but have found nothing, i just don't know where the liquid is going. When i purchased the car white smoke was coming out of the tail pipe but after the tune up it seems to have stopped mostly once the car is warmed up. so we're saying replace the hoses, then maybe fan clutch, it turns with somewhat of a push when car is off. then maybe maybe seal up the head an vaue cover? What about the leak from the oil pan to the transmission?

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

Ruff knock when you shift from park could be a bad u-joint, exspecialy after sitting three years. And sometimes an old radiator cap can go bad and slowly let liquid disappear without you even knowing it. Cheap fixes both of them. I'm tackling engine oil leaks as well, and mine are legit leaks, four or five drips everynight , but the god news, its been that way for ten years. Just talked to cdan this morning, parts will be here soon enough. Tens years of oil soaked cardboard is getting old

 

[lt1fire]

Ruff knock when you shift from park could be a bad u-joint, exspecialy after sitting three years. And sometimes an old radiator cap can go bad and slowly let liquid disappear without you even knowing it. Cheap fixes both of them. I'm tackling engine oil leaks as well, and mine are legit leaks, four or five drips everynight , but the god news, its been that way for ten years. Just talked to cdan this morning, parts will be here soon enough. Tens years of oil soaked cardboard is getting old

The knock he described is the the common clunk that our trannys all eventually seem to get.... not a big deal. Every 3FE powered cruiser I have ever driven in does it or has started to do it

 

[jonheld]

so we're saying replace the hoses, then maybe fan clutch, it turns with somewhat of a push when car is off. then maybe maybe seal up the head an vaue cover? What about the leak from the oil pan to the transmission?

The fan clutch is the single most overlooked item in the cooling system. They can fail in several different ways and have a lifespan of around 100K miles. Replace with OEM and move on.

The rear main seal is most likely not an issue. The bottom of the crank has a curvature to it and is a good place for leaks to start. It is almost always misdiagnosed as a rear main seal leak. Again, use OEM seals and gaskets.

As mentioned before, replace your radiator cap. Don’t know if I mentioned it before, but use OEM parts.

 

[jvazquez53]

BTW, Bienvenido!!! = Welcome!!!! Like mentioned earlier clean the engine compartment, then fix those leaks; replace the radiator cap, belts hoses, etc. I normaly start with the cheapest items. One thing I will not cut corners is the oil. Personally I prefer synthetic, but a good quality regular oil will be fine. Antfreeze/coolant I use Prestone pre-mixed (used for a few years) without problems. Your truckis juust simply neglected, all is needed is some catching up in the maintenance. Don't be suprised if you get brake problems in the near future.

 

[lispeej]

The knock he described is the the common clunk that our trannys all eventually seem to get.... not a big deal. Every 3FE powered cruiser I have ever driven in does it or has started to do it

I wonder if regearing would minimize the cluncking noise? Or is it in the tranny?

 

[FJ80RivahCruiser]

I changed my tranny oil and filter then got under the car and did some investigating. My buddy moved the truck through all the gears as i was underneath. When shifting from reverse to drive and vice versa their is a loud noise. When i'm down there I found out its coming from the front of the truck, either the front diff or the the front driveshaft, not the tranny. it sounds like a little noise from the driveshaft but more from the diff. I just drained and refilled the diff., so i know its not from lack of gear oil. Anybody got any ideas on what it is, and what i should do? And i don't think its a U-joint, even though i'm still going to be replaced, I need something more mechanical about inside the front diff. real FJ80 mechanics, please tell me whats going on. oh yeah, it locks into high or low 4wd with no problem or noise.

 

[jonheld]

Guys,

Do a bit of searching on driveline clunk. There is a good amount of slop in the driveline of a fulltime 4WD truck. What you're hearing is that slop being taken up. 3 diffs, 4 uni joints, 2 slip yolks, front drive plates...it adds up.

 

[jvazquez53]

Guys,

Do a bit of searching on driveline clunk. There is a good amount of slop in the driveline of a fulltime 4WD truck. What you're hearing is that slop being taken up. 3 diffs, 4 uni joints, 2 slip yolks, front drive plates...it adds up.

Get used to it, I went trough the same.

 

[Lka1988]

Guys,

Do a bit of searching on driveline clunk. There is a good amount of slop in the driveline of a fulltime 4WD truck. What you're hearing is that slop being taken up. 3 diffs, 4 uni joints, 2 slip yolks, front drive plates...it adds up.

x2, my 91 clunks like a madhouse.

Jon (not jonheld), try this test- Lock the CDL, then shift from reverse to drive and vice-versa. With the CDL locked, it shouldn't clunk since the front end (the clunky part) is locked to the rear end (the non-clunky part).

If it still clunks (like mine), then you might need a new u-joint or 4.

 

[FJ80RivahCruiser]

So i preformed the CDL test and clunk wasn't half as bad. I'm going ahead and replacing the 4 u-joints just to tie up some of the friction. I know everybody says this is a common problem and get used to it, but their has to be some sort of fix. Do i need to go into the diff and replace something or maybe just clean it out? This is a pretty loud clunk, it sounds like metal is getting ripped apart from about 25ft away.