1992 80 AC Repair... (1 Viewer)

[FZJ80 in KC]

$1000!!!! is that for a complete A/C repair or just the conversion?

Sounds about right. Think about it, a shop is typically going to change at least the expansion valve and drier, flush the entire system, new O-rings, add dye, vacuum test, charge, and warranty it, all at shop labor rates and marked up shop prices for parts, and don't forget the charge for shop towels.

I paid $120 for the vacuum and charge. About $80 in parts to do the rest myself (did not change compressor).

 

[LS1FJ40]

$1000!!!! is that for a complete A/C repair or just the conversion?

Conversion. They all said I need new condenser, evaporator, etc because they weren't compatible. I came to the Mud and got straightened out.

 

[Dudleyfj40]

How did it go? I need to do my daughters also.

 

[Hornd]

Do not bust anything removing the Evap Core parts will be a PIA to get....promise.
Cleaned with Simple Green, then soapy water, then water rinse, and compressed air.
See that silver block that's the expansion valve.

First you'll want to open up the system and flush out all of the mineral oil from the system, using something like this:
Amazon.com: FJC 2710 A/C System Flush Kit: Automotive

Keep in mind that you cant flush through the compressor, dryer or expansion valve. After you've flushed the system replace the O rings, I got an O ring kit from Rock Auto that had at least 60 O rings in it that appeared to be very good quality. Before you bolt up the system you need to add PAG 46 oil, make sure to add some directly to the compressor, the FSM tells how much you need I don't remember off the top of my head. Its a good idea to get PAG oil with UV dye in it or add UV dye to the oil, this will make finding any future leaks much easier. You'll now bolt up the system with a new dryer and possibly new expansion valve (see below). Screw the R-134a adapters onto the R-12 Fittings.

With the system closed attach a vacuum pump and evacuate for roughly an hour. Turn the pump off and check the pressure, then let everything sit for at least 15 minutes, if the pressure rises significantly you have a leak. Assuming that you don't have a leak you can now begin to add R-134a.


Expansion Valve:
The expansion valve for R-134a systems is different from the valve for R-12 systems. The valves appear to have the same physical dimensions and should be interchangeable but likely have different properties regarding the flow of refrigerant. People successfully swap to 134a without swapping the expansion valves but if I were doing it I would get a 134a expansion valve. Also, Denso is OE for the expansion valve so no need to buy the part from Toyota.

Parts Needed:
R-134a adapter kit
Dryer
O ring kit
Flush kit
Expansion valve (not strictly necessary)
PAG 46 oil
R-134a

That's some great advice. Could not have said it better myself. I did same job. Changed each component a night...condenser, expansion valve, Accumulator/Dryer. Had a shop pull vacuum and fill since they had equipment.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Brent,

I've done it twice now. Really easy. Not a difficult job at all. My AC blows ice cold. Let me know if you want some help or to talk it through.

 

[Cruzerman]

Mine still blows ice cold too. Heading to go wheeling in Southern Oregon this weekend where it will get a real workout. Sure glad the A/C now works!

 

[retrofive]

Mine still blows ice cold too. Heading to go wheeling in Southern Oregon this weekend where it will get a real workout. Sure glad the A/C now works!

McGrew?
105* on Friday. Going to be a warm run into camp with a cool Smith River welcoming

 

[maxamillion2345]

Bumping old thread... I have a 92 not sure if it was ever converted to r134a or if the AC worked before my 6bt swap but I do know that it was charged and had dye in it. I pulled the compressor and had some lines crimped onto the old lines just to get me sealed up to the dodge compressor. I have no schrader valves now though. That was a couple years ago. Itd be nice to finally get the AC up and going.

I'd like to redo the lines, buy a new compressor, expansion valve, and drier and set it up with r134a.

Any thoughts on how much oil or refrigerant? The new comp will come with oil but do I need more?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[BILT4ME]

Bumping old thread... I have a 92 not sure if it was ever converted to r134a or if the AC worked before my 6bt swap but I do know that it was charged and had dye in it. I pulled the compressor and had some lines crimped onto the old lines just to get me sealed up to the dodge compressor. I have no schrader valves now though. That was a couple years ago. Itd be nice to finally get the AC up and going.

I'd like to redo the lines, buy a new compressor, expansion valve, and drier and set it up with r134a.

Any thoughts on how much oil or refrigerant? The new comp will come with oil but do I need more?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

There are typically charts on how much oil resides in each component of a system. What I would do is find out the total for EACH system. Then break it down by EACH COMPONENT, then add together the compressor you are now using plus each of the current components you have. I would hedge on the side of too much oil, because the compressor is the part that NEEDS the oil. Too much oil reduces the efficiency, but it will be what is's going to be.

 

[baldilocks]

It's hard to say bcecause of your hybrid system. The fsm lists components and oil volume. Most of the oil is in the drier and compressor.

The stock 93-97 system holds like 1.9 pounds of R134A and 180 ml of PAG46 oil.

Toyota put out a TSB when they started retrofits back in the 90's. I can help you find that if you want.

When I retrofitted my early 93, I dumped the oil that came in the new compressor out so I New exactly how much oil I was putting in the system.

The TSB said to put half the oil in the compressor and half in the drier and then rotate the comp ten revolutions by hand in order to circulate the new oil. After about 2 rotations I could here the oil being slurped through the system.

You could pass on your experience to others who do diesel swaps. It seem so many just skip the AC due to its challenges. Let us know how this goes.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I know @cjmoon and @Mr Cimarron are running dodge compressors but I think they were both fzj80s with r134a.

Yes it seems a very daunting task. I will keep digging. At work now... more to come.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Is there a definitive answer on whether or not I need a fj80 or an fzj80 expansion valve? Will the fzj80 bolt up to my evap core? I need the oring kit from a fzj right?

 

[baldilocks]

You can get a generic Oring kit at any auto parts store. I bought all of my AC parts on Rockauto including the Orings.

Is there a reason why you can't use the oem denso compressor? That would make your connections simpler. Also, be aware that the R134 tube and hose fittings are larger than R-12 just in case you were planning to use an older component.

 

[maxamillion2345]

The 3FE nippon-denso? Fitment, mounting, belts. I feel itd be a nightmare trying to work that on there. I know the cummins denso compressor can be done and it seems the easier way to go, I think.

 

[baldilocks]

Since dodge used a denso compressor you may be able to put a manifold from a toyota denso compressor on your Cummins compressor to make pressure and suction line connections easy.