Roger that
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View attachment 1619119 Turns out after desmogging my rig it wasn’t enough. I overheated it attempting to keep 65 mph with a full rig going camping with the family and blew a radiator and head gasket. It was 100% my fault because I had advanced the timing and did can’t help the predet in time. But with a new head and all kinds of new parts it sounds and runs much better. Just need to replace my cats and she is as good as new! Not to mention with all that smog stuff gone I finally installed my dual battery kit.
So, I read through all the pages in this thread. This is my very general take away:
- the mod can be done with or without replacing the belt and will not harm the engine.
- if you can do it, it is better to take everything away.
- the mod mainly makes the truck run smoother, it adds some noticeable torque, but not much power, if any.
- the mod might help your mpg, but most people see no change.
- some Cali trucks show code 71 (i think), but you can short the EGR to avoid it.
I disabled my entire system. It runs way smoother, I feel I have better response, tad bit more power and better mpg. My theory is: Depending on how well your egr system is working in the first place and to what extent you remove it (just the block off plate vs. complete removal including the belt) will depend on what results you end up with.
I was happy with how well it was running and I could get up to 80mph on the interstate with 33" tires. But I didn't see a big enough increase in MPG and that has been a deal breaker for me. I live in Maine and gas stations in certain parts of the state are far and few between. I bought this rig as an "expedition" kind of vehicle and if I can't get from point A to point B then what is the sense? I just came upon an incredible deal on a low mile, aluminum 5.3 LS, 4L60e Trans, Marks Adapter and TCase. I will be doing a 3FE delete this spring. Let me know if anyone is looking for a 3FE in good condition.
That sounds right as long as that is the only vac line feeding the egr system.One thing I learned is that may be able to cap the TB vac outlets and effectively disable the EGR. At least thats what I think I learned. Im chasing a high idle and it seems to be vac related, but damn if I cant find the leak, if it does exist. So in theory, I can eliminate a helluva lot of unnecessary vac, if this is correct. So Im thinking it would allow me to concentrate on a smaller area...
Oh yeah good point. But if Im not mistaken that feeds a considerable amount of it. Will need to look it all over. I need to get these hoses straight because I AM SICK OF VAC. Sorry mild hijackThat sounds right as long as that is the only vac line feeding the egr system.
Will do. Thanks. Still havent got my radiator back in but Ill do this right after. Where should I take the reading at the booster? Thanks again for real.Hook up a vacuum gauge and tell me what you vacuum is at idle. You should be between 18 to 21. I doubt your high idle issue is because of a vacuum leak. Sounds like a tps issue.
I still have mine, but would rather vent directly to the intake to clean up the bay some more.
Mine is now plugged completely (in theory with pressure/vacuum in the gas tank but haven't noticed anything so likely the gas cap has a leak) and no ill effects with regard to smells or performance.Has anyone done this? Is this saying to just run the line that normally goes into the canister from the tank, running it directly to the intake? I'm rebuilding my 3FE (going in a 40) desmogged, but for now have been planning to keep the charcoal canister as I thought it was still necessary/safer. But it would be nice to have that area opened up.