1990 1HDT Build (1 Viewer)

[awolyota]

Finally having a chance to go home and play with my new to me 80 and figured I’d start a build to track the progress.

Coming from a built 3G Tacoma and then a 1995 1FZFE that I only baselined and never got around to modding before I sold.

Planning to do a typical touring overland setup. This’ll be a slow build thread as I’m currently a merchant mariner so I’m on a roughly 4 months away, 1 month home schedule. But I already have a solid head start of parts waiting for me to arrive home and expect to be finished with the build my following trip back.

So she’s a 1990 1HDT with a mint 65k~ miles, I’m still drooling to see it in person. I’ll post more in the following weeks once I’m home and can get the build started.

Cheers.

 

[awolyota]

Came home to her in the driveway accompanied by a bunch of OEM parts and mods waiting for me. I can’t drive her until I hit the DMV Monday to get a tag, planning to get a good chunk of the maint/mods done this weekend.

Sadly couldn’t listen to her running, turned the key and got nothing. So if the rain let’s up tomorrow morning I’ll browse the forums to get her turning over

 

[ikarus]

View attachment 3338894
Came home to her in the driveway accompanied by a bunch of OEM parts and mods waiting for me. I can’t drive her until I hit the DMV Monday to get a tag, planning to get a good chunk of the maint/mods done this weekend.

Sadly couldn’t listen to her running, turned the key and got nothing. So if the rain let’s up tomorrow morning I’ll browse the forums to get her turning over

Did it just arrive from Japan? I hear they like to get rid of old batteries by putting them in cars right before they’re exported.

 

[Cutrex]

I did not believe such things would still exist until today. Looks like a real unicorn. Greetings, and good luck with the build (welcome to the 1HD-T club).

 

[awolyota]

Did it just arrive from Japan? I hear they like to get rid of old batteries by putting them in cars right before they’re exported.

It was exported around November/December last year. the sticker on the battery says 9/22. got it charging right now and gonna to see if there’s a drain somewhere. my uncle that’s been watching it for me said he’s had to jump it a couple times when he tries to crank it every now and then

 

[awolyota]

Just spent most of the day charging the battery and coming up with a maintenance to-do list. Noticed the timing belt was done relatively recently so that’s nice. I have a cross country road trip planned for July where I’ll be going from FL to NC then OR so besides the typical service maint I plan on checking/replacing:

Injectors, Idler pulley, tensioner, camshaft seal, water pump, thermostat, glow plug, fan clutch, BEB, valve adjustment, compression, radiator

I’m open to any other things I should take a look at

 

[duece71]

Really nice 1990. I only wish mine had 65k miles. Lol.

 

[awolyota]

Really nice 1990. I only wish mine had 65k miles. Lol.

lol thanks, planning to start tacking on the miles anytime I'm home

 

[mudgudgeon]

Injectors and glow plugs is most likely unnecessary at the miles its done.
If you do them, don't forget to order seals and crush washers for injectors, fuel return line, glow plugs.

Injectors, Idler pulley, tensioner, camshaft seal, water pump, thermostat, glow plug, fan clutch, BEB, valve adjustment, compression, radiator

Buy new belt tensioner hardware. Threaded block, bolts etc.
Heavily coat adjuster bolt with copper or zinc anti seize paste.
Replace these for alternator, and AC belt tensioners. I've snapped or stripped these bolts on every cruiser I've owned, due to lack of antiseize paste lovin' from POs.


I'd say order some heavier silicone oil and tune the fan clutch before installing. They aren't necessarily optimised out of the box. Search for the land tank blue fan clutch thread. (Apparently thread went to shìt, but the early part has solid info)

Also replace radiator cap. Often overlooked as a maintenance item and as the cause of issues.

While I'm spending your money, replace all the small rubber water lines including behind the turbo, all the rubber is 33 years old, hard and crusty.
And while your changing hoses, checkout the heater control valve. They go brittle and crumble too.

Buy some replacement OEM spring clamps to suit hoses you're replacing, they are a few cents each, and vastly superior to any worm drive clamps.

I'd also seriously consider re-doing the timing belt, tensioner spring, Idler pulley etc
The spring is sub $20, rarely replaced and lots of cases where a re-used spring has failed. Any failure associated with timing belt is likely fatal to a 1HD-T.

If you haven't been infected with MudOCD yet, think about changing the harmonic balancer too. The rubber is 33 years old here too and critical to the engine/crank.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Inspect all the rubber brake lines too. And flush and bleed brakes

 

[awolyota]

Injectors and glow plugs is most likely unnecessary at the miles its done.
If you do them, don't forget to order seals and crush washers for injectors, fuel return line, glow plugs.


Buy new belt tensioner hardware. Threaded block, bolts etc.
Heavily coat adjuster bolt with copper or zinc anti seize paste.
Replace these for alternator, and AC belt tensioners. I've snapped or stripped these bolts on every cruiser I've owned, due to lack of antiseize paste lovin' from POs.


I'd say order some heavier silicone oil and tune the fan clutch before installing. They aren't necessarily optimised out of the box. Search for the land tank blue fan clutch thread. (Apparently thread went to shìt, but the early part has solid info)

Also replace radiator cap. Often overlooked as a maintenance item and as the cause of issues.

While I'm spending your money, replace all the small rubber water lines including behind the turbo, all the rubber is 33 years old, hard and crusty.
And while your changing hoses, checkout the heater control valve. They go brittle and crumble too.

Buy some replacement OEM spring clamps to suit hoses you're replacing, they are a few cents each, and vastly superior to any worm drive clamps.

I'd also seriously consider re-doing the timing belt, tensioner spring, Idler pulley etc
The spring is sub $20, rarely replaced and lots of cases where a re-used spring has failed. Any failure associated with timing belt is likely fatal to a 1HD-T.

If you haven't been infected with MudOCD yet, think about changing the harmonic balancer too. The rubber is 33 years old here too and critical to the engine/crank.

back to the shopping cart I go, lol.

I actually already have a timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump on hand before I realized the timing belt was done at 85k, so I was planning on double checking it for a feel good.

I think I’m starting to webMD myself by looking up any small thing I might want to replace or double check haha, it doesn’t end. I noticed the exhaust blows a small amount of white smoke at idle, is this normal? I searched the forum and went down a rabbit hole of water/coolant, exhaust leak, blown head, cracked block, injectors etc.

So I just took a vid to share and see what people thought. Again the engine has only been cranked once a week or two prior to this week.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Its a little smokey for sure. But if it hasn't been run much in a while, Drive it, have fun with it. Get a few tanks of fresh fuel through it.
Get some heat into the engine and blow out some cobwebs.
It may just be a tuning thing.

Also, dual exhaust tips??
Someone has modified it. They may have already messed with the tuning and turned up the fuel.

Are you going to run an EGT gauge? If want to know the tune is safe and not over-fuelled.

What's the exhaust look like if you have it idling, then stab the throttle to the floor for a few seconds?