1989 FJ62 Power Windows Gremlins (1 Viewer)

[grayfj62turd]

I am having electrical issues with my windows. The rear drivers side window will not operate at all. I removed the motor and tested it - the mechanism works fine.
The master switch is not functioning correctly. From left to right the first switch operates the rear passenger window. the RR window switch on the door panel operates correctly. On the master, the second switch from the left controls the drivers window. The third form the left controls the front passenger window. The switch on the FR door panel works correctly, The auto down does not operate nor does the regular up or down. This switch is dead.

I now have a LR window that has opened about 4 inches from the top from my testing of the motor. I can not get the window to move back up. Kinda like to keep her a bit dry when it rains so is temporary solution exist to get the windows rolled up and then how do I begin to address the window master switch issues.

ADD: I found the the green box relay in the front left door was UNPLUGGED. When I reconnected the relay, none of the windows would work. Hmmm, maybe a bad relay?

Thanks for any help!

 

[Scro]

Try this.

Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!

EDIT: This thread got longer than a Russian Folk tale. Since it got put in the FAQ, let me add a bit of a table of contents for quicker access to the meat of the thread: Power door lock mod--Posts 27 to 32 Power window mod--Posts 47 to 51 Discussion about grounding-- Posts 76 to 83 Most of...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[86aggie]

I had a similar issue with my front passenger window. Main switch would lower it, but not raise it. Door switch would raise and lower. \

Pulled main switch, removed cover on rear and checked for continuity in all switch positions. The rivet that the passenger door switch came in contact with to raise window had a break in continuity from switch contact side, to the 'circuit' on the other side of the board. There was continuity on head of rivet(on circuit side), but not on underside of head in contact with circuit. Bought a rear defroster repair kit, wire brushed rivet head and adjacent circuit material, and put about 30 coats of the defroster repair kit liquid on. Had better continuity there than anywhere else on circuit.

 

[grayfj62turd]

I found that the green box relay was unplugged. Of course, it didn't work after plugging it back in. In fact hen I plugged it back in, none of the windows would work.

 

[86aggie]

For what it is worth,I have a copy of the Manual, and the wire colors on the electrical diagrams for the window circuit did not match with what I had.

 

[grayfj62turd]

For what it is worth,I have a copy of the Manual, and the wire colors on the electrical diagrams for the window circuit did not match with what I had.

I have a manual as well. When I plug the relay back in and then try to roll down drivers window, I get. "thunk" kind of sound. Guess I'll try and go through the inspection procedure and see if it is toast.

 

[grayfj62turd]

Is there any way to bench test the power window relay? I went through the test procedure via the FM and looks like the relay is bad. Or is it?
My truck came from the desert in NM and looks new. I know that doesn't mean much - just no rust like others. Can you build a relay from current
parts available?

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Try resoldering the contacts in the green box. Do not burn the plastic board. Mike

 

[grayfj62turd]

I replaced both relays in 2 separate green box circuit boards (I purchased a used green box from Cruiserparts.net). When connected, the same issues exist like the top of this thread. I guess I could still blame the power window relay but .... after 2 boxes, one would think the problem exists somewhere else. Can the green box be bypassed with the "permanent window fix"?

 

[86aggie]

Have you checked for continuity?