I tried the fancy syn gear oils. Always had problem with shifting into 2nd gear, especially when it was cold. Called an engineer buddy that works for Toyota who also has a nice Gen2 truck. He told me to stop, and use Valvoline 75W90.
1989 4Runner R150F Rebuild
- Thread starter BrickRunner
- Start date
Pappy, I see Valvoline 75W90 is available as synthetic or just regular dino. Both have limited slip additive and both are GL5. Both say ok for NON syncro manual transmissions that specify GL4. Are you running it? I wouldn't imagine any damage but I notice a difference in shifting whenever I run GL5.
- Thread starter
- #23
I don't know year breaks specifically, but different years had slight differences. In my R150F, 5th gear was held on to the countershaft with a stake nut, whereas on the new AX15 countershaft I put in, 5th gear is held on by a snap ring.
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Thank you so much for the info. I'm looking for a core as we speak to try this.
I was told no syn in the tranny. TC and diffs, yes, but not tranny.
I've found gl4 to be extremely hard to find locally but stay lube which I believe you be conventional was cheapish for a gallon on Amazon. Still took 4 days to arrive.
I have redline gl4 but it's synthetic, I read good online reviews on it which is why I purchased it. This is the first I heard no synthetic in the r150, this is a bummer as if wasn't cheap...I guess it's tc and diff oil now
I have redline gl4 but it's synthetic, I read good online reviews on it which is why I purchased it. This is the first I heard no synthetic in the r150, this is a bummer as if wasn't cheap...I guess it's tc and diff oil now
My trans shifts like it should with the Redline MT 90 and I've been running it for a while. Easier to find than any GL4 is mainly why I am running it. I will get some Sta-lube ordered so I will have it on hand for whenever I change my oil again.
I hope the trans repair is going well for BrickRunner.
I hope the trans repair is going well for BrickRunner.
- Thread starter
- #28
I got the transmission apart as far as I need to to fix 4th. The synchro for 4th is trashed, the edges of the teeth are smushed and burred, and the thin sections where the hub keys fit are broken or in the process of breaking. Thankfully I found both of the missing bits:
The 3rd gear synchro had a couple of burrs on it, but no cracking. I had an extra one leftover so I replaced it with the new one.
The 3rd/4th shift fork also had some wear on the 3rd side. Neither the 1st/2nd or 5th forks had any wear.
Now I'm just waiting for the remainder of the new parts to be delivered.
The 3rd gear synchro had a couple of burrs on it, but no cracking. I had an extra one leftover so I replaced it with the new one.
The 3rd/4th shift fork also had some wear on the 3rd side. Neither the 1st/2nd or 5th forks had any wear.
Now I'm just waiting for the remainder of the new parts to be delivered.
Could the damage been done thanks to the bearing retainer you're upgrading with the Marlin crawler retainer plate (play where bearing sits on housing causing gears to pop out)?
I've also seen a lot of mentioning of play on input shafts on the r150/ax15, do you have any recommendations on what to check for? I've read mentions of markings/wear on the input shaft.
I'd purchase and fsm for this but I've read where the fsm isn't much help with the r&r of the 150 internals. There is at least one decent YouTube video on this.
Also any recommendations on the bearing separator sizes to press the gears/bearings off the main shaft?
I've also seen a lot of mentioning of play on input shafts on the r150/ax15, do you have any recommendations on what to check for? I've read mentions of markings/wear on the input shaft.
I'd purchase and fsm for this but I've read where the fsm isn't much help with the r&r of the 150 internals. There is at least one decent YouTube video on this.
Also any recommendations on the bearing separator sizes to press the gears/bearings off the main shaft?
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- Thread starter
- #30
Output shaft play in the bearing retainer was one of my thoughts as well, as that would allow the input and output shafts slightly separate.
If you are going to use a used input shaft, you want to check for wear on the tip where in goes into the pilot bearing, as well as wear on the teeth where it engages the shift hub sleeve. I bought a new one, as the gear teeth that drive the countershaft were burned off, but you could check those too.
When I did the rebuild initially, I did the pulling and pressing at a buddy's shop, and used his press and pullers. I don't remember what sizes. I now have my own 20 ton press and a bearing puller with a 1/2in to 4-5/8in jaw, and think i could do the job with these along with random bits of steel tube.
The FSM was super helpful for me, along with taking lots of pictures and putting everything in labeled bags as I went.
A good set of snap ring pliers wouldn't hurt either.
I just googled input shafts for the 150 and while I need to verify which model they are less than 90 bucks so if you're like me and don't do this for a living a new input shaft would be cheap insurance.
Thank you again
Thank you again
- Thread starter
- #32
Nuke it from orbit, the only way to be sure.
The Marlin bearing retainer is stout and a nice tight fit.
When I was just about done and installing the shift selector lever, I felt and heard a little tink, ugh!
The Marlin bearing retainer is stout and a nice tight fit.
When I was just about done and installing the shift selector lever, I felt and heard a little tink, ugh!
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- Thread starter
- #33
Before I tore the transmission apart I had replaced the shifter housing to see if that helped. It didn't prevent the popout, but it did make shifting smoother and tighter!
The pins on the old one were quite wiggly.
The pins on the old one were quite wiggly.
- Thread starter
- #34
Back on the road with all gears accounted for!
