Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (3 Viewers)

cruiserdan

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Both batteries are indeed on the left side with a RHD truck. Running any 12v accessories off just one of the batteries in the 24 volt bank (known as a center-tap) instead of a proper DC-DC converter is a problem.

This of course assumes it is a 24 volt truck.
 
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Your assumption that it is 24V is correct. If you are assuming I have any idea what I'm talking about here, that would be faulty thinking. I did see some gizmo over there on that battery and since Jorie installed the AC and it is powered off that battery, I bet it was done correctly. But something clearly drained both batteries (slowly) so there is an issue somewhere.
 

cruiserdan

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If the lower bank was the one more significantly discharged that suggests a center-tap. No bueno.
 
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If you do have a parasitic battery drain, slapping the NOCO on is just a bandaid in this case. Still, if you leave the unit parked for over a month at a time, it is nice to have one of these on there as well. Though I can recall walking out to one of my 24v Land cruisers in the past and firing it right up immediately after sitting 6 weeks in the winter time.

If you want to find what is killing the battery(ies) then I found this online article that does a good job explaining the process, replete with pictures!

Cheers, and good luck!!
 
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First picture - nope, don't have one of those and if I did, I'd have no idea what to do with it. Looks like a P.K.E. Meter to me! (Cue the Ghostbusters music.)

Although - that is perhaps detailed enough for an idiot like me. That would be a good learning process for me. Cool.
 
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I think the passenger side battery is grounded on a LHD, series wired to the driver's side battery, then 24V to the starter.

One of my Costco Interstate batteries s*** the bed...had some slow starts over the past few weeks. Started monitoring it and it gave up a few days ago at 10.5 V. Right at 36 months, right at they're rated warranty.

Bought a Duralast from Autozone, Group 27, I've had one of these in my 45 for a few years with no issues. The other Costco battery will probably die this winter, but I'm running it until it dies. Cleaned up terminals, and pulled old wiring out from my old converter too.

I was debating on getting a jumper solenoid so I can jump start myself from my house battery, or by one of the new fancy lithium jump packs, I'll most likely end up with both eventually. I can see having the jump pack, but not having it in the vehicle I need it in...Murphy's Law.

View attachment 2491133

Edit, other battery died a few weeks later...27F on looker's left, 27 on looker's right.View attachment 2491135
 

FJBen

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And to think I've been fretting for weeks over asking more about Ben's turbo set up and not wanting to detract from his thread...

@Kaderabek it's a little unclear, but it sounds like you have a host of 12v "appliances" connected directly to your high side battery, the LH side. As @cruiserdan said, this is no bueno and will create a charge imbalance between the batteries over time and will kill your batteries. This is different than a parasitic draw, but if all of those things are connected directly to the battery you could have that happening too. Your AC that Joe installed is 24v and very likely NOT the issue.
Good times, Popcorn and beers :beer:
 

FJBen

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And to think I've been fretting for weeks over asking more about Ben's turbo set up and not wanting to detract from his thread...

@Kaderabek it's a little unclear, but it sounds like you have a host of 12v "appliances" connected directly to your high side battery, the LH side. As @cruiserdan said, this is no bueno and will create a charge imbalance between the batteries over time and will kill your batteries. This is different than a parasitic draw, but if all of those things are connected directly to the battery you could have that happening too. Your AC that Joe installed is 24v and very likely NOT the issue.
Good times, Popcorn and beers :beer:


Ask away! I don’t mind the hijacks at all. Plenty of stuff to learn about and share which is awesome and what this forum is all about.

Even I can only stand so much of talking about me and my stuff. 😂
 
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Ask away! I don’t mind the hijacks at all. Plenty of stuff to learn about and share which is awesome and what this forum is all about.

Even I can only stand so much of talking about me and my stuff. 😂

Absolutely, and all good stuff here.
 
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And to think I've been fretting for weeks over asking more about Ben's turbo set up and not wanting to detract from his thread...

@Kaderabek it's a little unclear, but it sounds like you have a host of 12v "appliances" connected directly to your high side battery, the LH side. As @cruiserdan said, this is no bueno and will create a charge imbalance between the batteries over time and will kill your batteries. This is different than a parasitic draw, but if all of those things are connected directly to the battery you could have that happening too. Your AC that Joe installed is 24v and very likely NOT the issue.
Good times, Popcorn and beers :beer:
Well, stop to think of it - which does make my brain hurt - my AC is 24V (as you say and seldom used) and my winch is 24V as well. I'm not sure about the National Luna fridge other than it's hard wired but if I had to guess, that's probably the current draw. The only other electronic "accessory" in the truck that works is the clock (stereo is non-functional but I suppose could be drawing current).

I get that the battery tender is a band-aid approach but at least it gets me moving.

FWIW, I have other non-Cruiser skills and knowledge bases in case you get really bored. The English language, kayaking (particularly slalom racing), wine, Spanish water dogs, general bullshitting. :)
 

FJBen

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Well, stop to think of it - which does make my brain hurt - my AC is 24V (as you say and seldom used) and my winch is 24V as well. I'm not sure about the National Luna fridge other than it's hard wired but if I had to guess, that's probably the current draw. The only other electronic "accessory" in the truck that works is the clock (stereo is non-functional but I suppose could be drawing current).

I get that the battery tender is a band-aid approach but at least it gets me moving.

FWIW, I have other non-Cruiser skills and knowledge bases in case you get really bored. The English language, kayaking (particularly slalom racing), wine, Spanish water dogs, general bullshitting. :)

The best thing to do would be the parasitic draw test. My old school testing I do my dad taught me was the test light battery pull fuses til the light goes out. It at least gets you into the ballpark of finding which circuit is pulling load.
Using a multi-meter is more accurate. 😀

Be happy it’s a cruiser and not Lucas wiring or VW….talk about wiring nightmares.


I definitely have my fair share of valuable knowledge topics and much more not so valuable information.

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I can’t tell you about wine other than if it shows up in a box or comes from boones farm, it’s probably gonna be a bangin’ party! ;)
 

cruiserdan

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Because no day in the life of this thread would be complete without an update from my battery tender. :rolleyes: I was surprised to see this today. The green light is solid, which I believe indicates fully charged. The other battery has reverted to a blinking red light on the lowest bar. Nothing else has changed. Haven't started it or unhooked the battery tender. So guess I'll continue to monitor it - which is to say, do nothing. My specialty.
IMG_4424.jpeg
 

cruiserdan

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Switch the leads to the opposite batteries and see if the light pattern follows the battery. If it doesn't there is a problem with the charger.
 
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Maybe I missed it, but are your batteries disconnected from the truck and each other while the tender is on? If not, having a 24V spread between the ground on one side of the charger and the positive on the other might mess up the charger's brain.
 

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