Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion (2 Viewers)

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Finally got around to get some more work done on the 60. The rear axle housing got two coats of por15 after I welded the armor on and I pulled the ring gear and housing out of the third I'm going to use and tossed it into an empty front housing for sand blasting.

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I ended up having to sandblast the diff housing again to get rest of the rust off that theblaster missed. This was a pain since the coating on the inside was still perfect and I didn't want to blast it off. I ended up using a bunch of tape to tape everything up.

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For powdering I used a combination of masking tape and high temp powder tape. The powder tape doesn't bend so it doesn't really work well on curved surfaces. I applied the powder then removed the masking tape before putting it in the oven.

Learned a lesson that the part should be completely cool before I start mucking with it. The diff held a lot of heat and took much longer to cool because of the mass. I got impatient and tried to move it with leather gloves before it was cool and apparently the powder isn't much different from wet paint while it's curing. Anyway I left some non glossy spots on it from trying to move it too soon.

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New pinion bearings, crush sleeve, nut, and pinion seal. This is my 5th full float cable diff to go through in the last year so it's nice to be kinda familiar with it. I've learned to start the crush sleeve collapsing with it on the press and do the final torquing with an impact and inch pound beam type wrench.

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With new bearings I set the preload to 20 inch pounds before staking the nut. The manual calls for 16-22 inch pounds.


I did have some trouble with this housing in that the outer pinion bearing outer race was loose in the housing bore. Someone had been in there before because the outer bearing was aftermarket. The inner bearing was original and had more wear than all the others I've had apart so far. What I suspect is that at some point the outer bearing had failed and possibly seized to the outer race causing it to spin in the bore and open it up slightly. Anyway so what I did was I took a sharp punch and put roughly 14-16 indentions or divets around the perimeter of the outer race housing bore of the diff. Then using the press I pressed the outer race back in and it held great. Unfortunately I didn't get any photos but I hope that makes sense.

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Main caps tightened to 58lbs and this diff is ready for the axle housing.

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Mating surface cleaned up for the third.

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cad plated hardware for a little bling.
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Powder coated these bits and a new o ring for the locker actuator. Got this little guy from Japan.

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I didn't get far when I realized I forgot to plate the plugs I decided to use in place of the locker indicator switches. :bang:

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This guy is done. I got some wheels on it this evening and going to haul it to my house tomorrow so it can join my front axle anxiously awaiting the day I install them in my 60. With this little project out of the way I can finally start on prepping my NOS long block for installation

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Damn, some of you guys do work that put some of us attempting to do the same to shame! This thing gonna be better than new! Impressed, I am!!!
 
Well the stars finally aligned and I got some time to jump on getting my 60 going. Up until this point I hadn't taken it apart so still don't know quiet exactly what had happened to that engine. Last Saturday my friend Scott along with his son Cole helped me tow the 60 over to Tucker's. It was a good thing I had the extra help because the construction crew over at Tucker's had dropped several pallets of sand "each probably weighing a couple of tons a piece" in front of the garage, blocking the door. After several futile attempts trying to slide and winch (with ratchet straps) the pallets over with the sand still on them we only succeeded in tearing apart the two pallets that needed to be moved. We finally decided that with the three of us manning a shovel we'd be better off trying make an assembly line of sorts and try to move the sand from one pallet into the next until we could get them light enough where we could move them. After twenty minutes or so of shoveling we finally got the pallets unloaded enough to move out of the way and get the 60 in the garage. It was an ordeal to say the least. What should have been a 1/2 hour job took the better half of two hours and after all that I definitely owe Scott a big favor.

Last week I made the decision to install my rebuilt 12ht in the 60. I'm really curious to see how it will run and I wasn't having much luck selling it anyway. Last Monday I ordered some new denso injector nozzles and took the turbo to a local guy for a rebuild. Between a couple hours last night and a few hours today I got the engine pulled and started swapping some of the bits over.
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I was pretty surprised how in the two years it's been parked a white corrosion of sorts has started forming on the aluminum parts. I think I'm going to clean up the bell housing and powder coat this time around.
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I pulled the front cover back off in preparation for installing the injection pump. I think it can be installed by using the little site plug on top of the back timing cover but with the front off it is super simple. I didn't remove the auto timer on the injection pump so I'm hoping I can just line up the mark on the gears and the timing should still be set. I also noticed that my overhaul gasket set didn't come with the o-ring that goes between the pump and the case nor any of the injector seats and seals. Fortunately they're available stateside and I should them here next week.

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This is the pump off the second (replacement) engine. The engine started when I got it so I'm going to chance it. A good clean and hope for the best lol.

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The engine was extremely corroded but this piece cleaned up really well. The bellowed portion is non magnetic stainless. I'm going to turn this in for plating on Monday and then powder coat it clear.
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I've been researching different ways of finishing aluminum and have come across a technique called vapor honing. It's essentially a wet sand blasting machine. The honing leaves a very smooth satin like finish on the part. Unfortunately these machines start at 3500 bucks so it's not exactly cheap. I found a local motorcycle shop that has one so this morning I rode over there and talked the owner in letting me try it first hand. It's quiet impressive this is the oil filter housing. The finish is very smooth although part of me want to put some clear powder on this as well to preserve it.
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Very slowly going together. I need to have the turbo coolant and oil feed/drain pipes replated this week and I'm waiting on the last two exhaust manifold studs from Toyota to get it installed. I also still need to sand blast and powder my intake manifold before I can get it put on. I picked up a new set of denso injector nozzles for good measure so I'm going to get them installed and take the injectors in tomorrow to get the pop pressure tested.


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Spent some time on the intake this evening. I had initially planned on using a vapor hone on it and then clear powder but the machine wasn't really available to me like I had hoped. Thankfully I got it blasted over at Michael's @76 FJ40 though and threw some powder on it. I also taped up and powdered the oil filter bracket just so it'd match and also the power steering reservoir bracket I'd made a couple of years ago. I was in a hurry at the time so had just welded it up and threw it in the truck. I probably would have rather powdered it black but it was blasted and I just didn't feel like changing the powder out in the gun for one small part.

Here is the intake in the blaster. You can see how bad it was. The whole thing was like the portion on the right.
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I decided to pull the last few studs out of it and put them in my gold zinc batch
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