1986 Pickup IFS lift options (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Connecticut
Hello all,

I recently purchased a 1986 pickup single cab, long bed as a bit of a weekend project. The front end needs to be gone through (bad spindle bushing I believe) grinding noise coming from drivers front on bumps.

While I am rebuilding and researching parts I am trying to decide the best option for a lift. I am looking to run 31x10.5R15 tires and want to get a 1.5-2 inches max of lift and beef up steering components "while I'm in there".... and yes I know just SAS it..

This will be used for a daily/weekend light trail wheeling rig. 60% on road 40% off.

What are the best options? Jack up the torsion keys? OME torsion bars and a add a leaf?
 

desmocruiser

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 17, 2005
Messages
1,199
Location
Big Orange Country
As mentioned above I would call Cruiser Outfitters and go OME front and rear and do it right the first time with today’s options, the steering idler arm, box etc. will need some attention for long term health, they should have recommendations there as well.

It has been a really long time, 25-30 years, since I built my 86’ 4Runner and went through a series of torsion bar and rear spring combinations; stock cranked and blocks with helper springs in back, Northwest Off Road, and finally Downey iirc correctly to get a reasonable (non teeth jarring harsh) ride and 32x12.50’s to fit.

Cool trucks, enjoy!
 

BlueCruiser84

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
3,374
Location
Staunton, VA
For 31x10.50s just bolt them on and go. Keep stock CV and steering angles. Use your lift money for a rear locker. I’ve had (and wheeled) everything from 30x9.50 to 35x12.50 on my stock height 4runner. A lift isn’t needed, other than for looks.

33x10.50s are my preferred size. Seen here on a stock height front end and a 1.5” “lift” in back to level things out.
F9EDDAB0-19AC-488E-A27A-487D651CADFF.jpeg
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
2,682
Location
Greenville, SC
I went a little cheap with my lift. Some 1.5 inch ball joint spacers and diff drop, replaced all ball joints and tres with new moog components. Stock torsion bars set at minimum for soft ride. Rancho shocks on all corners. Back springs are ome that came with the rig. Found that when cleaning up paint, so far it's the only positive surprise I've found on my rig build. Put an AAL in each rear pack. I rebuilt all the brake systems and 94 4unner brake booster/calipers/rotor upgrade to stop the bigger tires. I did the brass bushing idler kit upgrade. New steering stabilizer. I had to drop my steering stabilizer further than the spacers provided with the diff drop kit to keep the drive shaft from hitting but this may be modified further when she's on all 4 tires.

She is still sitting disassembled for the diesel and 5 speed swap but I will be running 285 70 17s on some 2018 4runner non trd take offs when she hits the ground.

Id have loved to buy a one stop kit but I have a budget build and the diesel electronics/adapters did not allow it.
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Connecticut
For 31x10.50s just bolt them on and go. Keep stock CV and steering angles. Use your lift money for a rear locker. I’ve had (and wheeled) everything from 30x9.50 to 35x12.50 on my stock height 4runner. A lift isn’t needed, other than for looks.

33x10.50s are my preferred size. Seen here on a stock height front end and a 1.5” “lift” in back to level things out.
View attachment 2628513
Thanks! For sure was just an aesthetics's thing with the lift. Figured while I am buying front end components, shocks, new leaf bushings.. etc it may just pay to do a lift but I think for now just going to rock stock height. Would much prefer to spend that money else where on this "budget built project".

What brand tire did you go with on the 30x9.50s? I have always run Duratracs on my big trucks but looking for an AT on this toyota.
 
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
11
Location
Connecticut
I went a little cheap with my lift. Some 1.5 inch ball joint spacers and diff drop, replaced all ball joints and tres with new moog components. Stock torsion bars set at minimum for soft ride. Rancho shocks on all corners. Back springs are ome that came with the rig. Found that when cleaning up paint, so far it's the only positive surprise I've found on my rig build. Put an AAL in each rear pack. I rebuilt all the brake systems and 94 4unner brake booster/calipers/rotor upgrade to stop the bigger tires. I did the brass bushing idler kit upgrade. New steering stabilizer. I had to drop my steering stabilizer further than the spacers provided with the diff drop kit to keep the drive shaft from hitting but this may be modified further when she's on all 4 tires.

She is still sitting disassembled for the diesel and 5 speed swap but I will be running 285 70 17s on some 2018 4runner non trd take offs when she hits the ground.

Id have loved to buy a one stop kit but I have a budget build and the diesel electronics/adapters did not allow it.
How was the fitment on the balljoints? I heard sometimes they aren't the right shape and are hard to press into the hole. May end up spending my "lift" money in other departments to improve the vehicle.

What are you doing for a diesel swap? Sounds awesome! I would love to drop a 2LT in this thing
 
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
2,682
Location
Greenville, SC
I used all moog tre's and ball joints. I used either energy suspension or prothane poly bushings for the control arms. Moog is some high quality product so all fitment was like factory. I've never had a moog ball joint not fit the taper before. I went ahead and did new wheel bearings/seals while i was in it, koyo bearings I believe. Rebuilding the suspension/brakes and steering has so far been the cheapest part of my pocket.

The only fitment issue I had was having to cut some of the upper control arm to fit the ball joint lift spacer, it was only cosmetic material but would have been much easier to do on my work bench rather than on the rig

Im a collector of the 2004 and 2005 Volkswagen passats. Once the balance shaft has been deleted using oem ALH or BRM oil pump parts the motors are very reliable, simple to work on and most importantly economical. With a stage 2 tune she has a very responsive 170 hp and 300 ft lbs of torque. Best part is service items are readily available both online and at local auto parts stores. I have ordered a kit that adapts it to an r150f.

My project has stalled a bit as it's spring and I'm doing all the service work to get the boat ready to hit the water. I have my custom wiring harness back from Canada but still waiting on my adapter supplier to finish said adapter. So long as I don't run into any boat issues that require work throughout the summer I hope to be driving it by fall. I cant wait to daily another diesel swapped yota but I like being on the lake much more.
 

ntsqd

technerd
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
6,052
Location
Upper So. CA
I used OME rear springs and Roger Brown's ball-joint spacers up front for a nearly level, nearly stock ride height on 31-10.50's on OEM alloys wheels under my '88 4rnnr. The reason that I used B-J spacers for a nearly stock ride height is so that I didn't need to put as much pre-load in the t-bars to get the desired ride height. It's been my DD for the last more than a year, so the rear ride height tuning that needs to be done hasn't yet happened.
 

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