Dear all,
I've tried to follow as much of the forum's advice as possible as I've made investments in my LJ70 intended to make it a reliable daily driver and expedition vehicle. It has been an expensive journey so far as I live overseas and have had to rely on other mechanics instead of my preferred DIY. After my last nearly $$$$$ repair bill covering the clutch system, swivel ball rebuild, injection pump rebuild, alignment, other front suspension work, and other odds and ends (thanks Beno for parts assistance), I need to get a lot smarter about my repairs until I move back to the US in the fall and can DIY again. Not using the truck during my remaining leaves with my 16 yo son is not an option and we have a busy summer planned!
There is a good chance that my expectations for what I can safely get out of the 2L-T, especially with 170k miles on it, are too high. The truck lives in NC and most of my recreational use requires long highway segments between off-roading and camping sites. On my last extended trip in late April, I was unable to maintain 60-65 MPH on rolling terrain in mid and western NC on the interstate without the temp needle creeping up over half way on its way to much hotter. I think I had to go to 2nd gear climbing the mountains headed west on the steepest part of I40 and couldn't push more than 2500 rpm if I wanted to keep temps at or under the mid-line. I ended up driving by the boost gauge, which I installed because of the nearly always lit overboost light (waste gate doesn't open until 15 psi for whatever reason), needing to stay at 10psi to keep the temps down. I'm used to driving by EGTs in my previous 1.6TD conversion VW Westies but I haven't installed one yet on the LJ. I haven't messed with the fuel delivery but it smokes a bit more since the pump rebuild, though power and heat weren't noticeably affected.
Here is what I've done so far: new radiator, water pump, hoses, t-stat, viscous fan clutch (with at least 50% 10k fluid and lower temp lock-up adjustment as truck immediately overheated on any grade with factory fluid and settings); added Redline to coolant; installed new 2.5" exhaust (need to cut it off and re-route in front of rear passenger tire); removed a/c system, which is going back on soon; and installed snorkel. Rubber mud guards on side of lower engine compartment are gone.
Truck is heavily loaded with a full-length ARB roof rack and TJM bull bar. I'm running the tall skinny tire size listed on the door sticker and have very heavy Radar commercial off-road tires, which are inflated over 30 psi for on-road. Gears are stock. 2" Ironman lift. Winch and refrigerator are going on next and I would like to add a RTT and/or pull a small camping trailer, all of which will add more weight and wind resistance. The viscous fan clutch mod made a huge difference but I think it also reduced my fuel mileage a bit.
The cheapest option is just slowing down but being able to run with traffic and avoid extended 50-55 MPH stints seem like good safety goals. Based on my research, I have a few more options in order of expense before I give up on this engine: go back into the viscous clutch and replace all of the fluid with 10K; try to get a 3" or bigger exhaust; use special coolant, which introduces potential complications on trips far from home; and install an intercooler, which will be top mount so I can keep the a/c.
I don't mind dropping the money on an intercooler if I can be sure that it will make a noticeable difference. Is air-to-air sufficient or is it only worth it with water cooling? How to people feel about using the special coolant far from home and where it won't be readily available? I've only seen one or two people on the forum who seem to use it. Would an auxiliary electric water pump help? Are there larger or more efficient aftermarket radiators than factory I should install? Would an auxiliary oil cooler help or at least be a good investment (always installed one on my diesel Westies)? Would an electric engine fan move more air with less drag than the factory fan and clutch setup? Should I look at the turbo even though it apparently generates plenty of boost? Should I consider rebuilding my existing engine though it starts easily and burns less than a quart between 5000 mile oil changes or is the 2L-T just not going to do it? If so, would a compression test be the defining data point? I also don't mind re powering if my goals are just beyond what this engine can do reliably. I'm planning a Patagonia expedition in the next two years and will move back overseas to Africa after that so I will want to pick whatever engine is best for ROW maintenance and parts availability (American V-8?).
Sorry for the long post and thanks for any and all suggestions for what I should try next.
Cheers,
Rich
I've tried to follow as much of the forum's advice as possible as I've made investments in my LJ70 intended to make it a reliable daily driver and expedition vehicle. It has been an expensive journey so far as I live overseas and have had to rely on other mechanics instead of my preferred DIY. After my last nearly $$$$$ repair bill covering the clutch system, swivel ball rebuild, injection pump rebuild, alignment, other front suspension work, and other odds and ends (thanks Beno for parts assistance), I need to get a lot smarter about my repairs until I move back to the US in the fall and can DIY again. Not using the truck during my remaining leaves with my 16 yo son is not an option and we have a busy summer planned!
There is a good chance that my expectations for what I can safely get out of the 2L-T, especially with 170k miles on it, are too high. The truck lives in NC and most of my recreational use requires long highway segments between off-roading and camping sites. On my last extended trip in late April, I was unable to maintain 60-65 MPH on rolling terrain in mid and western NC on the interstate without the temp needle creeping up over half way on its way to much hotter. I think I had to go to 2nd gear climbing the mountains headed west on the steepest part of I40 and couldn't push more than 2500 rpm if I wanted to keep temps at or under the mid-line. I ended up driving by the boost gauge, which I installed because of the nearly always lit overboost light (waste gate doesn't open until 15 psi for whatever reason), needing to stay at 10psi to keep the temps down. I'm used to driving by EGTs in my previous 1.6TD conversion VW Westies but I haven't installed one yet on the LJ. I haven't messed with the fuel delivery but it smokes a bit more since the pump rebuild, though power and heat weren't noticeably affected.
Here is what I've done so far: new radiator, water pump, hoses, t-stat, viscous fan clutch (with at least 50% 10k fluid and lower temp lock-up adjustment as truck immediately overheated on any grade with factory fluid and settings); added Redline to coolant; installed new 2.5" exhaust (need to cut it off and re-route in front of rear passenger tire); removed a/c system, which is going back on soon; and installed snorkel. Rubber mud guards on side of lower engine compartment are gone.
Truck is heavily loaded with a full-length ARB roof rack and TJM bull bar. I'm running the tall skinny tire size listed on the door sticker and have very heavy Radar commercial off-road tires, which are inflated over 30 psi for on-road. Gears are stock. 2" Ironman lift. Winch and refrigerator are going on next and I would like to add a RTT and/or pull a small camping trailer, all of which will add more weight and wind resistance. The viscous fan clutch mod made a huge difference but I think it also reduced my fuel mileage a bit.
The cheapest option is just slowing down but being able to run with traffic and avoid extended 50-55 MPH stints seem like good safety goals. Based on my research, I have a few more options in order of expense before I give up on this engine: go back into the viscous clutch and replace all of the fluid with 10K; try to get a 3" or bigger exhaust; use special coolant, which introduces potential complications on trips far from home; and install an intercooler, which will be top mount so I can keep the a/c.
I don't mind dropping the money on an intercooler if I can be sure that it will make a noticeable difference. Is air-to-air sufficient or is it only worth it with water cooling? How to people feel about using the special coolant far from home and where it won't be readily available? I've only seen one or two people on the forum who seem to use it. Would an auxiliary electric water pump help? Are there larger or more efficient aftermarket radiators than factory I should install? Would an auxiliary oil cooler help or at least be a good investment (always installed one on my diesel Westies)? Would an electric engine fan move more air with less drag than the factory fan and clutch setup? Should I look at the turbo even though it apparently generates plenty of boost? Should I consider rebuilding my existing engine though it starts easily and burns less than a quart between 5000 mile oil changes or is the 2L-T just not going to do it? If so, would a compression test be the defining data point? I also don't mind re powering if my goals are just beyond what this engine can do reliably. I'm planning a Patagonia expedition in the next two years and will move back overseas to Africa after that so I will want to pick whatever engine is best for ROW maintenance and parts availability (American V-8?).
Sorry for the long post and thanks for any and all suggestions for what I should try next.
Cheers,
Rich
