- Thread starter
- #121
Anyone have a #2 bearing cap? Literally fell apart in my hand pulling it. FML. Amazing how well the engine ran like this... 
Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OGBeno
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- 3b diesel bj70 block cylinder head
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- Thread starter
- #122
Well, let's back things up a bit.... Engine pulled. That's a good thing. While it was hanging, I removed the clutch parts:
Disc:
Yeah, I've burned it up a bit.
Disc:
Yeah, I've burned it up a bit.
- Thread starter
- #123
Just hanging out looking tough....
Flywheel has some nice "burning"... Time to get it machined....
Throwout and fork....
Flywheel has some nice "burning"...
Time to get it machined....
Throwout and fork....
- Thread starter
- #124
Throwout bearing is manufactured by Koyo (a Toyota Group company within the JTEKT group of companies):
Here is the Koyo part number:
Flywheel bolts: M13x 1.5 Good luck finding a tap for that one!
Rear end plate:
Rear main seal and pilot bearing:
Here is the Koyo part number:
Flywheel bolts: M13x 1.5 Good luck finding a tap for that one!
Rear end plate:
Rear main seal and pilot bearing:
Here is a source for that tap:
drillsandcutters.com
I bought one for my 2F head bolts from these guys.
m13 x 1.5 HSS Plug Tap
m13 x 1.5 HSS Plug Tap. Find this item and other cutting tools on DrillsandCutters.com.
i will certainly donate a #2 bearing cap to the cause
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I found that door hinge adjust wrench you got me from Toyota works real good on that. It’s an “S” shaped wrench, 12mm.
Works great on a 1PZ/1HZ/1HDT but never tried it on a 3B.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #128
Yeah, I tried a S-style wrench but the 2 ribs of the bell housing are too close to the bolt. A thin-walled 6 pt socket is the only one that fits there.
- Thread starter
- #129
Continuing with disassembly....
You can see here the rear main seal retainer (it's aluminum):
Rear main seal removed (90311-95003 is the service replacement part number):
You can see here the oil cooler cover: Again, has the Toyota and Daihatsu emblems....
Oil pan removal:
Bottom of the block where the oil strainer attaches:
You can see here the rear main seal retainer (it's aluminum):
Rear main seal removed (90311-95003 is the service replacement part number):
You can see here the oil cooler cover: Again, has the Toyota and Daihatsu emblems....
Oil pan removal:
Bottom of the block where the oil strainer attaches:
3B Main bearing cap numbering
- Thread starter
- #130
Toyota is nice enough to number the main bearing caps as well as indicate direction of install. 
3B Main bearing numbers and oil cooler
- Thread starter
- #131
Toyota always indicates at the back of the block where it mates with the oil pan the main bearing numbers: In this case, the #1 bearing is sized "MARK 2" and the rest are sized "MARK 1". This allows you to build the engine utilizing sized bearings vs. machining the crank to go undersized by a certain amount.
Engine with the oil feed lines and strainer removed.... I clean FIPG and gaskets as I go through the disassembly process:
You can see that #2 main bearing cap gave NO indication that it was damaged. Amazing robustness of these engines....
When you are removing the coil cooler, you can't really see this stupid little allen bolt without really looking. Don't forget about it before prying on the aluminum housing!
Oil cooler and cover removed....
Oil cooler housing once parts are removed....
Engine with the oil feed lines and strainer removed.... I clean FIPG and gaskets as I go through the disassembly process:
You can see that #2 main bearing cap gave NO indication that it was damaged. Amazing robustness of these engines....
When you are removing the coil cooler, you can't really see this stupid little allen bolt without really looking. Don't forget about it before prying on the aluminum housing!
Oil cooler and cover removed....
Oil cooler housing once parts are removed....
- Thread starter
- #132
You can see here the date stamp for when Toyoda Industries cast/machined the block assembly:
Using our previous date code numbering system, this number equals: 5 9 0 B
5= 1985
9= September
0= place holder
B= 2nd manufacturing day of the month
This fits very closely with the JIT parts procurement philosophy.... The engine block was cast in September for installation into a truck that would be manufactured in the first manufacturing week of October 1985.
RH side of block cleaned:
Timing cover:
Cover removed: You have the camshaft gear (larger one to the left of the picture), the idler gear (center gear) and the timing gear (on the front of the crankshaft):
This is your gear oiler which oils the gears as they synchromesh and turn:
Using our previous date code numbering system, this number equals: 5 9 0 B
5= 1985
9= September
0= place holder
B= 2nd manufacturing day of the month
This fits very closely with the JIT parts procurement philosophy.... The engine block was cast in September for installation into a truck that would be manufactured in the first manufacturing week of October 1985.
RH side of block cleaned:
Timing cover:
Cover removed: You have the camshaft gear (larger one to the left of the picture), the idler gear (center gear) and the timing gear (on the front of the crankshaft):
This is your gear oiler which oils the gears as they synchromesh and turn:
3B timing gear removal and oil pump casing
- Thread starter
- #133
The timing gear has to come off to remove the oil pump case/inner timing case:
Case removed: The rear cover with the JIS screws houses the oil pump assembly:
And you can see here the oil pump drive gear and the driven gear:
Case removed: The rear cover with the JIS screws houses the oil pump assembly:
And you can see here the oil pump drive gear and the driven gear:
3B connecting rod backlash measurement and oil squirter
- Thread starter
- #134
The FSM states that backlash on the connecting rod on the crankshaft has to be measured before removal...
The tolerance is 0.200-0.320 mm standard. All were well within tolerance. Even if they were out, this damn motor is so robust that it probably wouldn't matter in the grand scheme of things.
You can see the oil squirter here at the bottom of the cylinder bore... There are 4 of these-- 1 for each cylinder which is great for a turbo application.
The tolerance is 0.200-0.320 mm standard. All were well within tolerance. Even if they were out, this damn motor is so robust that it probably wouldn't matter in the grand scheme of things.
You can see the oil squirter here at the bottom of the cylinder bore... There are 4 of these-- 1 for each cylinder which is great for a turbo application.
- Thread starter
- #135
Connecting rods dremelled to keep together:
The bare block: cylinder liners are still in place and the cam bearings are still installed. I am waiting on a cam bearing tool set to remove those.
The bare block: cylinder liners are still in place and the cam bearings are still installed. I am waiting on a cam bearing tool set to remove those.
- Thread starter
- #136
Pistons and rods:
Main bearing caps and bearings. #3 also has the thrust washers
All the bits and pieces:
Crank looks amazingly good. Going to have a quick polish on it at the local machine shop:
Main bearing caps and bearings. #3 also has the thrust washers
All the bits and pieces:
Crank looks amazingly good. Going to have a quick polish on it at the local machine shop:
mongoose2231
Supporting Vendor
Great write-up so far, watching closely!
- Thread starter
- #138
The flywheel and crank went off for machining today. Crank is just getting a polish. I am going to reuse standard main bearings.
Spent a bit of time this morning washing the block....
Spent a bit of time this morning washing the block....
- Thread starter
- #139
Unfortunately, Toyota Forklift called and said to "pound sand." They don't like me.
Off to find good used versions. Have some leads from Dan at 4Wheel Auto in Canada. Will report back.
- Thread starter
- #140
Got back my manifolds and VC from powder coat. Just wanted to stick with a nice satin black.
Exhaust manifold will also be painted black and wrapped.
Exhaust manifold will also be painted black and wrapped.
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