Watching itch interest. Do you have the manuals?
I do have some manuals for the 3b if you would like
I do have some manuals for the 3b if you would like
Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter OGBeno
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- 3b diesel bj70 block cylinder head
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- #42
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- #43
Yeah, back to turbo indeed. There is no other way to safely drive a 3B in the US.
3B HEAD AND ROCKERS
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- #44
So I started with removing the valve cover and the head. Valve cover went off to media blast and powder coat (along with a number of other metal parts that I wanted media blasted and PCed). At least some of the engine will look good. 
This is what the inside of the head looked like when the VC came off:
The VC had this cool manufacture decal. Going to get it remade and will install on VC when I receive it.
This is what the inside of the head looked like when the VC came off:
The VC had this cool manufacture decal. Going to get it remade and will install on VC when I receive it.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I think your Crank will be fine. Mine had 485,000kms and looked great. Only polished to clean up some residue on front seal area.
how does your CAM look? I did get mine cleaned up at the machine shop as well.
how does your CAM look? I did get mine cleaned up at the machine shop as well.
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215k kilometers? Which is 133k miles? That’s young, I would be hesitant to swap any of the bearings in the bottom end out. It’s still got the magic in it. 
- Thread starter
- #47
I have a new cam and cam bearings.
215k kilometers? Which is 133k miles? That’s young, I would be hesitant to swap any of the bearings in the bottom end out. It’s still got the magic in it.
Regardless of miles, time needs to be factored in and the usage: for 30 years it was used as a plow truck at a Hokkaido ski resort (so, short usage time, cold usage, high elevation usage as well as the fact that it was used for only a few months out of the year and then sat parked rusting away).
Time period is just as bad as high mileage.
Rocker arms and Cylinder head information
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- #48
You can see here the differences in the rocker arms: Long one is the intake arm and the shorter, angled one is the exhaust arm:
You can see the wear patterns here on the arm face where they interact with the top of the valves: The exhaust arms are pretty toasted with damage. This indicates that valve adjustments were not made correctly or frequent enough during usage. These should be adjusted roughly every 15-20K miles on old style designs like this. Per Robbie Antonson (one of the most experienced Land Cruiser engine builders in the US), looks like the exhaust valve was loose for very long periods of time thus hammering the sh/t out of the arm-valve interface.
You can see here on the head the manufacture date code. Toyota has had a consistent internal date code for manufacture for a very long time-- at least since 1963. This date code is interpreted as: 85= year of manufacture || A= Month of Manufacture (January) || M= Day of manufacture (Tuesday of the 3rd week of manufacturing operations). Toyota operations during this time period were Monday-Friday manufacturing operations, 2 shifts. Saturday and Sunday were off days for productions lines.
You can see here the casting for the head: TEQ= Toyota (in this case, 3B cast components were manufactured by Toyoda Industries) and the 11115-58012 is the internal factory/engineering design part number.
11111= Basic Number: What kind of part or assembly.
11: Group Number/Code: Engine. || Application: Non-moving #1
11: Part fitting/Subject Code: Identifies and defines an item within its Group Number/Code and indicated part fitting location: In this case, cast and machined cylinder head
1: Detail Number: Identifies and defines a specific item within a Subject Code Number: In this case, identifies the cylinder head as being design iteration #1 (0 is technically the engineering drawing or prototype design indicator).
11111: Finally: This is a single unit part: A part deemed as a single unit part for the convenience of part ordering during production or part supplying process. This number will be assigned to include no zeros in all five characters
58012= Design Number/Classification Code:
58: B engine family designation (Class code: A class code is assigned to a car family or engine family unit) Numbers 10-29 will be assigned engine family class code. For parts procured in Japan (Japan procured parts), numbers 10-78 will be assigned.
01: Design serial number (Design serial numbers are used to classify according to specifications for parts to be used for the same car family or engine family unit). Assign design serial numbers in the sequence of 01, 02, ... etc. according to the sequence of part registration
2: Major design/engineering change number (Major design change used for distinguishing old and new parts). In this case, 0 would have been the initial design, 1, the next one, 2, etc.
You can see the wear patterns here on the arm face where they interact with the top of the valves: The exhaust arms are pretty toasted with damage. This indicates that valve adjustments were not made correctly or frequent enough during usage. These should be adjusted roughly every 15-20K miles on old style designs like this. Per Robbie Antonson (one of the most experienced Land Cruiser engine builders in the US), looks like the exhaust valve was loose for very long periods of time thus hammering the sh/t out of the arm-valve interface.
You can see here on the head the manufacture date code. Toyota has had a consistent internal date code for manufacture for a very long time-- at least since 1963. This date code is interpreted as: 85= year of manufacture || A= Month of Manufacture (January) || M= Day of manufacture (Tuesday of the 3rd week of manufacturing operations). Toyota operations during this time period were Monday-Friday manufacturing operations, 2 shifts. Saturday and Sunday were off days for productions lines.
You can see here the casting for the head: TEQ= Toyota (in this case, 3B cast components were manufactured by Toyoda Industries) and the 11115-58012 is the internal factory/engineering design part number.
11111= Basic Number: What kind of part or assembly.
11: Group Number/Code: Engine. || Application: Non-moving #1
11: Part fitting/Subject Code: Identifies and defines an item within its Group Number/Code and indicated part fitting location: In this case, cast and machined cylinder head
1: Detail Number: Identifies and defines a specific item within a Subject Code Number: In this case, identifies the cylinder head as being design iteration #1 (0 is technically the engineering drawing or prototype design indicator).
11111: Finally: This is a single unit part: A part deemed as a single unit part for the convenience of part ordering during production or part supplying process. This number will be assigned to include no zeros in all five characters
58012= Design Number/Classification Code:
58: B engine family designation (Class code: A class code is assigned to a car family or engine family unit) Numbers 10-29 will be assigned engine family class code. For parts procured in Japan (Japan procured parts), numbers 10-78 will be assigned.
01: Design serial number (Design serial numbers are used to classify according to specifications for parts to be used for the same car family or engine family unit). Assign design serial numbers in the sequence of 01, 02, ... etc. according to the sequence of part registration
2: Major design/engineering change number (Major design change used for distinguishing old and new parts). In this case, 0 would have been the initial design, 1, the next one, 2, etc.
Cylinder head and pre-cups damage
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- #49
This is quick reference sheet for the date code system.
Of course, as suspected with these old IDI engines, the pre-combustion chambers were all cracked....
And the head was cracked in between the valves as well. This could be fixed but don't feel like addressing right now.
Of course, as suspected with these old IDI engines, the pre-combustion chambers were all cracked....
And the head was cracked in between the valves as well. This could be fixed but don't feel like addressing right now.
Beno pulls new unobtanium head off shelf...
Cylinder head and gasket
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- #51
Well, since you mentioned it Ian, let's get to that part....
New head was sitting on the shelf.
It is unfortunately not Toyota. It is an Engines Australia head assy which I believe it manufactured in either China or Taiwan.The correct OEM part number for the head was 11101-58014 when it was still available from Toyota. This head come with the head casting, freeze plugs, valve stems, valve seats and pre-cups installed already. So it is technically considered a sub-assembly since it is more than one discrete part.
Test fitting the HG and the head bolts:
The head gasket is OEM Toyota: 11115-58110 It is a MLS HG which will do wonders with turbo application. Glad Toyota upgraded to this versus the composite graphite factory head gasket I pulled off.
Valve train
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- #52
Of course, to go along with the new head, we will be using all new OEM parts to fill it:
Head bolts: M12 x1.25 thread pitch. The head bolt is 119mm in length under the flange of the bolt head. The threaded portion is 25mm in length.
The intake and exhaust valves. 13711-58010 is the intake valve and 13715-5810 is the exhaust valve. These are the "large valve" 3B parts.
These are the outer compression springs:
And then these are the inner compression springs:
Then you have your valve stem seals.
Head bolts: M12 x1.25 thread pitch. The head bolt is 119mm in length under the flange of the bolt head. The threaded portion is 25mm in length.
The intake and exhaust valves. 13711-58010 is the intake valve and 13715-5810 is the exhaust valve. These are the "large valve" 3B parts.
These are the outer compression springs:
And then these are the inner compression springs:
Then you have your valve stem seals.
Valvetrain components
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- #53
New rocker shaft:
New valve lifters:
New pushrods:
Parts that need to be reused (no OEM options): Spring washers at bottom of springs and valve spring retainers. These are hardened parts so I cleaned them up with some wire wheeling and scotchbrite pads.
New valve lifters:
New pushrods:
Parts that need to be reused (no OEM options): Spring washers at bottom of springs and valve spring retainers. These are hardened parts so I cleaned them up with some wire wheeling and scotchbrite pads.
Removing valve train
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- #54
So, the parts being reused for the valvetrain needed to be removed from the old head.
I used this tool set from OTC:
Removal process is pretty simple:
Then pulling the valve stem seals off the valve guides to get to the spring washers underneath. Seals are destroyed.
I used this tool set from OTC:
Removal process is pretty simple:
Then pulling the valve stem seals off the valve guides to get to the spring washers underneath. Seals are destroyed.
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- #55
So, I'll be trying my hand at doing some porting and polishing as well with the extra material on the inner portion of the valve seats. I'll be posting up pictures of that once I start that process later this weekend.
New camshaft:
New camshaft:
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- #56
I was about to send the rocker arms to @FJ60Cam to have his machine shop address the damage to the valve interface surface, but I remembered that 3B engines were used in Toyota Industrial equipment. So, off I went to my trusty conversion book that converts Toyota engine part numbers to Toyota Industrial part numbers. The rocker arms showed as converted:
So, I ordered them from my local Toyota Industrial/Forklifts dealer. We shall see if they arrive. I will update once I find out.
So, I ordered them from my local Toyota Industrial/Forklifts dealer. We shall see if they arrive. I will update once I find out.
Fantastic. I could have used that conversion 3 weeks ago. The rocker arms were the only wear items that were not replaced in the overhaul my 3B.
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- #58
Not too late Larry. If these actually show up, I'll let you know and get a set coming for you. These are simple to swap out before you put your engine back in your rig.
Dilspec
SILVER Star
Glad to see you haven't left Mud. This is a great build, thanks for sharing it with us.
I appreciate that because it is the smart thing to do. I will need to get an approved PO from the bride first, so please fire off a warning and I will grovel as I make the funding request.
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