Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (6 Viewers)

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Idle fixed. Always little things.

Oil pressure sensor does not really allow you to keep the engine running at idle so you don’t destroy your engine.

I overrode that on start up.

I just forgot to plug the harness on the connector.

Attached and golden.

Perfect idle. A bit low. Will adjust.

 
Onur said:
Hi Larry: Thanks for the photos the other night. Hope I didn't bother you too late.

She was not running at idle in the video. I had the hand throttle cranked up a bit to keep rpm's up so it would run.

I haven't plugged the IC in yet. In fact, I haven't plugged any non-factory systems in. I want to make sure the factory systems are operating correctly before introducing--incrementally--modifications like the IC, gauges, aux lights, etc. I hate doing this kind of work and introducing out-side parameter options/auxiliaries that might possible interfere with correct factory operation.

The turbo is a known-known, to use a Rumsfeldian term.... I know what it can do, what it does to the engine, and how it performs in conjunction with the engine.

Once I put about 500 miles on the truck, I will then wire in the IC, gauges, aux lights, etc.

Once I know that everything is correct and functional as they should be.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Very logical approach that will allow you to identify and diagnose in a pure 3B configuration which the FSM can aid you with. Then as you incrementally add in aftermarket equipment, you can identify what it is due to, then diagnose/correct accordingly. I will have to retain this lesson for future use.
 
Onur said:
Hi Andrew: Thanks for the generous offer. It's tempting, but I generally prefer keeping OEM instructional/warning labels/iconography. Luckily, I know what the 2nd 16401-54750 cap is for. ;)
Click to expand...

Totally understandable, I would have made the sticker look as stock as possible myself...

A few pages back, you reference "Toyota hardware part numbering documentation". Is that something us mere mortals can get ahold of? I'd love to have a full copy of this when trying to source hardware that didn't originally come with my rig!

Onur said:
I refer to the Toyota hardware part numbering documentation when ordering bulk hardware:

View attachment 2275518
Click to expand...
 
Onur, hats off to you bud. I was thinking, for the future, I would like to get a 2H and rebuild it to have as a spare. Looks like your machine shop did a great job. Maybe you wanna share some info on that when the time comes, I'd appreciate it greatly !!!
That engine sounds amazing...great job man.
🍻
 
So the “stalling at idle” issue has returned.

Engine won’t stay running at idle. I have adjusted the throttle cable to increase tension.

The engine is also a bit tough to start up and require decent pedal input.

This one has me miffed. I’ve checked all connections and fuel lines.

Two things I need to consider:

1. I did not time the IP after installation. I have the Toyota tool for it just haven’t done it. I didn’t do anything to the IP and it was rebuilt 4 years ago.

2. I do have a fuel leak at the inlet to the IP. (This is a rotary pump, not the in-line style). I’ve driven the truck for hundreds of miles when I first got it with an IP leak and it really never effected the engine performance noticeably.

In any event, I need to do some more trouble shooting.

Any suggestions from the Greek chorus?
 
Onur, I had a similar issue once when I had a leak at the seal under the circled portion. I marked the shaft, removed the arm and spring and replaced the seal then reinstalled and had a no start. Anyway in my case even though the shaft was marked it was a few full rotations unwound. Any chance you had that loose?

20200627_192032.jpg
 
roma042987 said:
Onur, I had a similar issue once when I had a leak at the seal under the circled portion. I marked the shaft, removed the arm and spring and replaced the seal then reinstalled and had a no start. Anyway in my case even though the shaft was marked it was a few full rotations unwound. Any chance you had that loose?

View attachment 2354033
Click to expand...

Negative Roma. That’s fine there. I haven’t messed with the pump at all. Zero.

It is leaking at the inlet head pretty good now.

I just took it for a drive at surface street speeds and highway speeds... unfortunately any time I stop giving it gas, it sputters and stalls out. Dies instantly.

It’s gotta be something with the IP/fuel delivery.
 
Onur,
FYI As I worked through my run issues after the rebuild, my 3B had a spell of starting/running/idle stalls that caused me to doubt my fuel delivery being consistent/reliable. My action was to drain/flush the water separator and replace the fuel filter. After re-bleeding the system, it seemed to have been fixed [and then the poor grounding of the EDIC hit me which then had to be fixed].

Unlikely that this is your demon, but it might be an item to check and eliminate as you narrow your list.

Good luck.
 
Fuel filter is new, Larry.

I don’t have a water separator.

But bleeding the system is a good lead.

Thanks Larry.
 
Onur said:
Fuel filter is new, Larry.

I don’t have a water separator.

But bleeding the system is a good lead.

Thanks Larry.
Click to expand...
Forgive my ignorance here I do not know if there is a electric pump in the tank of the 70 series. If there is a pump in the tank then perhaps it is bad or not getting power. If there is no pump in the tank and fuel must be sucked from the tank by the IP then I would suspect an air leak between your IP and the tank. You say you put in a new fuel filter perhaps something is leaking air there. Perhaps you've got bubbles of air somewhere in the fuel system that is gurgling around in your IP and not getting good suction at low speed. I sort of remember you dropping the fuel tank somewhere in this thread perhaps you've got a leak in the line there somewhere. I have had good success remedying imperfect fuel lines in a number of boats, vehicles, and one airplane by adding a $30 universal electric fuel pump in the line as close to the tank as possible.
 
Speaking from Bosch VE pump experience - if the input shaft seal is failing it will allow air in to the low pressure side of the pump. Causing it to kind of lose prime. Does your truck have a separate "lift" pump or does it rely entirely on the low pressure side of the IP to draw fuel from the tank via vacuum? As a hack repair guys would put a low pressure electric pump in the fuel feed line to force feed the IP to get around the issue. Which of course is not a proper repair and just causes more fuel to leak.

Odd that the seal would fail after only 4 years but you never know.
 
Onur said:
Fuel filter is new, Larry.

I don’t have a water separator.

But bleeding the system is a good lead.

Thanks Larry.
Click to expand...

Understand. My filter was new too, but I was desperate enough that I put on a new one to eliminate a possible cause ... even a very remote one. I am confident that you will find cause and correct it, but there might be some colorful language used along the way.
 
robmobile73 said:
Forgive my ignorance here I do not know if there is a electric pump in the tank of the 70 series. If there is a pump in the tank then perhaps it is bad or not getting power. If there is no pump in the tank and fuel must be sucked from the tank by the IP then I would suspect an air leak between your IP and the tank. You say you put in a new fuel filter perhaps something is leaking air there. Perhaps you've got bubbles of air somewhere in the fuel system that is gurgling around in your IP and not getting good suction at low speed. I sort of remember you dropping the fuel tank somewhere in this thread perhaps you've got a leak in the line there somewhere. I have had good success remedying imperfect fuel lines in a number of boats, vehicles, and one airplane by adding a $30 universal electric fuel pump in the line as close to the tank as possible.
Click to expand...

There is no electric pump in a Toyota diesel. The IP does the pumping work.

I do have a remote fuel filter head with a priming pump.

Not hacking into the fuel system to put a pump in. That defeats the purpose of doing things correctly.

I’m not band aiding things.
 
Prairie Swamp said:
Speaking from Bosch VE pump experience - if the input shaft seal is failing it will allow air in to the low pressure side of the pump. Causing it to kind of lose prime. Does your truck have a separate "lift" pump or does it rely entirely on the low pressure side of the IP to draw fuel from the tank via vacuum? As a hack repair guys would put a low pressure electric pump in the fuel feed line to force feed the IP to get around the issue. Which of course is not a proper repair and just causes more fuel to leak.

Odd that the seal would fail after only 4 years but you never know.
Click to expand...

Input fitting does not have a seal per s The fitting has 3 copper gaskets: 1 for the fitting and 2 for the union.

I’ve ordered these gaskets to swap them out.

I’m going to time the pump today using the correct Toyota tool and dial gauge.

Specification is 1.27mm-1.33mm of stroke for correct timing at TDC. Then advance (turn pump towards engine) or retard (turn away from engine) as needed to get timing correct. I’m getting decent amounts of black smoke which indicated things are a bit advanced.

I’m going to bleed the system today as well by cracking the injectors and pushing out the air using the starter.

I’ll report back my findings.

Always these little things that take the most amount of labor and time and head scratching.

image.jpg
 
Well, injectors bled. That was easy-

I opened up the inlet and cleaned it up and cleaned parts up.

61A57731-CEA4-49F4-BEC1-14BA17C79E67.jpeg

3B901666-C977-4E44-B1EA-5CBF934D12CB.jpeg

And gave her a whirl after bleeding the injectors again.

:( Sadness as the rough starting and the lack of fuel persisted. Inlet continued to leak thereby introducing air into the system again.

Damnit.

F4D0BD76-36C0-4977-94C4-9CAB96B32983.jpeg
 
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