Is dinner ready yet?
Careful there genius. You'll be rotating your own damn tires.
Or she'll rotate her own tires.
Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter OGBeno
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- 3b diesel bj70 block cylinder head
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Or she'll rotate her own tires.
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- #82
The fun begins with the head... this is tedious, dirty work.
Awesome thread Beno. I love your meticulous nature. Since after we sent you the turbo kit we have changed the turbo adapter gaskets to a graphite impregnated material w/ a stainless steel wafer sandwiched in between. Incredible gasket material that was designed for the space shuttle. We have a company make them to match both the Garrett turbocharger and the Toyota 13BT manifold. These now are included with our kits but I can arrainge a set for you if you would prefer a set for the reassembly. Great well documented thread, enjoying the rebuild.
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- #84
Thanks Keith. I’ll reach out to purchase a set and give them a shot. Appreciate it.
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- #85
Ready for some porting and polishing.
Nice Head Stands!!!
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- #87
Started porting and polishing this morning at 9am. Finished at 3pm. What an awful job.
Went through one Dremel tool and had to take a break and go buy another one. :rolleyes
Went through one Dremel tool and had to take a break and go buy another one. :rolleyes
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- #88
Time to build the head. Lots of little steps.
Front plug fitting installed. You would install this if you delete your rear heater: Comes pre-coated from Toyota.
Front plug fitting installed. You would install this if you delete your rear heater: Comes pre-coated from Toyota.
Exhaust manifold hardware
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- #89
Exhaust manifold hardware test installed.
Studs used were 2UZ-FE exhaust manifold studs. Perfect. 90080-12007. Used the lock nuts from 1FZ-FE downpipe: 90080-17187. Good part of using these is that the studs have a E10 Torx head for easy install.
Studs used were 2UZ-FE exhaust manifold studs. Perfect. 90080-12007. Used the lock nuts from 1FZ-FE downpipe: 90080-17187. Good part of using these is that the studs have a E10 Torx head for easy install.
3B exhaust manifold hardware
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- #90
All the exhaust manifold hardware was pretty much nasty from the high heat of the turbo and the heat/cooling cycles.
New hardware mandatory.
Bolts used were 1FZ exhaust pipe hardware. Good stuff. Perfect for this application. 90080-10204.
There are two long bolts for the exhaust manifold under the turbo where you have the large boss. I ended up using 2F upper-to-lower manifold bolts. Perfect fit: 90105-10486 coupled with some split washers: 94512-01000.
New hardware mandatory.
Bolts used were 1FZ exhaust pipe hardware. Good stuff. Perfect for this application. 90080-10204.
There are two long bolts for the exhaust manifold under the turbo where you have the large boss. I ended up using 2F upper-to-lower manifold bolts. Perfect fit: 90105-10486 coupled with some split washers: 94512-01000.
3B Intake manifold hardware
- Thread starter
- #91
Next was the intake side. At the back of the 3B head you have the pipe union for coolant flow to the heater valve.
The one on the head was good so I cleaned up and reused. But the part is still available new and I had one lying around forreference:
The intake manifold uses smaller M8x1.25 hardware. Sourced some 1FZ EGR studs as a perfect replacement because it uses a E7 Torx head for install. Perfect.
Photo makes it looks smaller but they are the same size.
Next we have the composite graphite intake manifold gasket:
The one on the head was good so I cleaned up and reused. But the part is still available new and I had one lying around forreference:
The intake manifold uses smaller M8x1.25 hardware. Sourced some 1FZ EGR studs as a perfect replacement because it uses a E7 Torx head for install. Perfect.
Photo makes it looks smaller but they are the same size.
Next we have the composite graphite intake manifold gasket:
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3B intake manifold hardware
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- #92
Stud with Torx driver:
Thread sealant
1FZ-FE O2 sensor lock nuts for the studs. High-heat application and locknut setup. Bingo.
Thread sealant
1FZ-FE O2 sensor lock nuts for the studs. High-heat application and locknut setup. Bingo.
3B head preparation
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- #93
Intake side.... rocking. I kept the bolts because they are the old school JIS torque numeral style that I love...
Valve cover studs installed in head. Head ready for some valve action.
Get the assembly oil ready....
And the tech documentation....
Valve cover studs installed in head. Head ready for some valve action.
Get the assembly oil ready....
And the tech documentation....
3B head components
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- #94
Valve and bits ready to install....
Installing the valve spring seats:
Inner spring set up...
Outer rings...
Installing the valve spring seats:
Inner spring set up...
Outer rings...
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- #95
Valve stem seals...
I didn’t have the Toyota SST needed for installing the seals. Went with a 13mm 1/2” socket to drive in over the valve guides...
Unfortunately I toasted 2 of them on install...
... so waiting for two from Toyota. Thought I had 10... only had 8.
Getting ready for compression...
I didn’t have the Toyota SST needed for installing the seals. Went with a 13mm 1/2” socket to drive in over the valve guides...
Unfortunately I toasted 2 of them on install...
... so waiting for two from Toyota. Thought I had 10... only had 8.
Getting ready for compression...
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- #96
The installation process...
You can see the 2 valves not installed while I wait for the oil seals... ugh. Fawk.
Did a quick video on installing the valve retainers... they are just a tricky bunch of buggers...
You can see the 2 valves not installed while I wait for the oil seals... ugh. Fawk.
Did a quick video on installing the valve retainers... they are just a tricky bunch of buggers...
Your work seems very meticulous. You may decide to replace those rockers, but some 320 grit followed by a buffing wheel with jewelers rouge and they will probably be fine.
I just did the same thing to my "made in China head" Your valves are shrouded just like mine were. I would guess that the factories in China use some of the same mold parts between different B series heads. You could bolt it together and it would run fine, but you'd be loosing some airflow. Took me about 45min with a $25 walmart die grinder to remove the extra material and smooth out the bowls and short side radius. Good luck.
If you enjoy using the dremel than good on you. My first heads I started with a dremel and stopped. Went to a electric harbor freight grinder and spent several hours with that. Air die grinder is exponentially faster. The $75 harbor freight compressor works fine. Just take a 30 second break every 10 seconds you grind. You can buy a air die grinder at Walmart and a pack of stone grinding bits for less than $35. It takes 2Xstones for 1 head.....have fun
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- #100
The porting and polishing was rather easy. Just take it slow, follow the radii inside the valve openings and it goes pretty simply.
Only issue is that it is dirty, tedious and slow work with lots of changing of different bits and polishing bits.
That said, dudes in sandals and using rocks as tools build 3B's on the side of a mountain in the middle of Pakistan. I'm not that worried about whatever extra flow I get through the valves.
Only issue is that it is dirty, tedious and slow work with lots of changing of different bits and polishing bits.
That said, dudes in sandals and using rocks as tools build 3B's on the side of a mountain in the middle of Pakistan. I'm not that worried about whatever extra flow I get through the valves.
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