Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (3 Viewers)

FIREWALL PIPING ROUTING/TRANS HARNESS

OGBeno

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So, picking up where I left off, old @landwagon got a hall pass from his wife and was able to make it back up this weekend to continue his vital help to get this sucker put back together.

Before we put the head on, a few things needed to happen.

First off, the clutch, fuel supply and return lines had to be reinstalled on the firewall. The routing is a bit puzzling at first, but after messing around with different combinations of how they stacked on top of each other, the clamping system indicated the stacking.

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The transmission sub-harness was removed, cleaned and re-taped. Came out great. I was able to re-route it a bit as well to give it stability when the vehicle is flexing.

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WIRING TAPE/CYLINDER HEAD

OGBeno

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I'm happy I inspected the wiring since one of the transfer case position sensor's had a wire that was cut. I wonder if that was why I was having difficulties engaging 4WD. :lol:

All three were removed and fixed and re-taped as well:

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I've been using a combination of OEM Yazaki tape and Elliot Tape. The Yazaki tape goes on first and depending on location the Elliot fabric-style tape goes on next. The fabric tape is perfect for wires that might see abrasion, and these wires going from the transfer and transmission to the engine bay will indeed see poor operational conditions:

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Then, @landwagon and I got the cylinder head assembly jigged up and hanging from the gantry system I have in the garage.

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OGBeno

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Before we dropped the head on to the block, I made sure the transmission wiring was located correctly and utilized a cool OEM clamp that bolts to one of the upper bellhousing bolts and secures the wiring...

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Starter was already rebuilt by @FJ60Cam at Mosley Motors. Another great job rebuilding a critical component:

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Installed: The starter uses a big M14 stud on the bottom and a M14 bolt coming in from the top from behind. Another pain in the butt to get to, but the extensions were ready at hand for install.

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Next, grab the head gasket:

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ROCKER SHAFT AND ARMS

OGBeno

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Next to install the rocker arms/shaft and do an initial cold valve adjustment.

The rocker arms were cleaned up at the machine shop and they came out great. Totally ready to roll for another 30 years. :)

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Rocker arm order of installation:

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Pushrods were lubed up with assembly lube and dropped into the engine assy as well:

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The rocker shaft has to be lined up correctly with the front and rear arm supports as they have a small allen bolt that locates the support and the shaft:

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Rocker shaft/arm assembly ready for install onto the head assembly:

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ROCKER SHAFT AND ARMS

OGBeno

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The front rocker support has an oiling hole. It's is super important to make sure the rocker support with the oiling provision is installed into the front most position or you will have an untimely death due to lack of oiling to the rocker shaft assembly.

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Here is the corresponding hole in the support. The FSM does NOT indicate this so do be aware.

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Start from the center and work outwards for torquing down the 10 bolts:

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Installed with the adjusting screws/nuts ready for initial cold valve adjust:

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Clearances required here:

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Cold valve adjust (initial)

OGBeno

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Feeler gauge with the measurements. I like just a little bit of resistance on the feeler (slightly tighter) since the engine will need to break-in and then a hot valve adjustment done once the engine has done about 500 miles of running. It will loosen a bit overtime anyway. Like the other older Toyota diesel and gas engines, Toyota does recommend consistent valve adjustments (I like about every 10K KMs):

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Quick note: oil dipstick tube is pressed into the LH side of the lower block. There is a mounting tab. For the life of me I forgot where it went (parts diagram is quite oblique about it's placement). Took a bit of head scratching to recall it goes onto the intake manifold stud BEHIND the injector line. :)

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Valve cover installed/IP fuel lines

OGBeno

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Valve cover with new gasket installed. Also, always replace the washer seals that seal the valve cover to the head utilizing the main 4 studs down the center of the head assembly. Bus bar for the glow plugs installed as well.

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IP fuel line and bracket. Easy one to forget, very tough to install after the fact.

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Fuel delivery line insulators: A small detail: 2 for the front 2 fuel lines and 2 for the rear 2 fuel lines and 3 for all 4 as they go down to the IP. The "insulate" the fuel lines, locate them and isolate them from engine vibration and from rubbing against other metal.

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Front two fuel lines run on top of the rear 2 fuel lines. Takes a bit of messing around with them to get the fittings lined up with the injectors as well as the delivery outlets on the back of the IP.

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OGBeno

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Here are the rear two lines underneath the front two...

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OEM Thermostat ready....

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Begins opening at 88C and is fully open by 95C:

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Little TEQ stamped in the flange....

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As well as a "Fuji-Thomson" stamped into the flange.

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Fuji-Thomson is now a defunct company which specialized in thermostats and bellows assemblies. They were one of a few Japanese suppliers of thermostats to Toyota back in the day (and still provide service parts support). The other was Nippon Thermostat Company, LTD. Fuji-Thomson updated their name to Fuji-Bellows and still utilize a similar logo for their products. You can read more about their history and product line here:

 
Drive belts

OGBeno

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The OEM belts are manufactured by Mitsuboshi Belting Co. for Toyota. They are a very long time supplier of belts to Toyota going back to the early days of the Land Cruiser.

Alternator and water pump belt:

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Power steering belt:

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Belts installed: I generally like about 1/2" of deflection at the longest point of un-supported belt length. The belts are tight on initial install. They will loosen as the belts wear into the pulleys. I like to go back in about 500-1000 miles after installing them and tighten up the belts back to 1/2" deflection.

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Some more information about the Mitsuboshi Belting Co.:

 
Speedo cable rerouting

OGBeno

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What I noticed when removing the engine was that the speedo cable was destroyed-- literally down to one wire. The heat from the exhaust pipe melted the protective sheathing and then melted the actual speedo cabling over time. The rubber grommet that it routes through was also a mess.

You can see here the hole from the inside of the cab:

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As you can see here, the pipe is very close to the firewall in this exact location. Nothing really to do about it now. The downpipe from the turbo was provided in the kit so I didn't really want to mess around with that right now. Instead, I decided to relocate the speedo cable to a location where it would not be as susceptible to the heat from the exhaust:

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So, I plugged the hole with a grommet and then covered it over with heat resistance asphalt covering from the inside.

Then, I found a good area to drill a hole into the firewall about 6-8 inches away from the exhaust pipe. The speedo cable has a lot of length to it for movement. Drilled a 1" hole and then put the speedo through and the grommet was a perfect fit. Still reaches where the speedo gauge will be with no issues.

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The exhaust was wrapped with DEI heat wrapping. This stuff worked good when I first installed the turbo in 2016 and lasted for a long time. It will eventually need to be redone but will be good hopefully for a number of years. This stuff isn't cheap but works well.

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Steering wheel

OGBeno

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Final note for the night:

New steering wheel and horn button. "It really ties the room together, dude." :)

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You can see the horn plate is integrated into the steering wheel itself. The horn button is on the combination switch side.

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And the horn button part number:

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And the completed assembly:

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