1985 FJ60 Problems (1 Viewer)

[moosemorrised]

I bought a 1985 FJ60 a few months back completly stock with 113,000 miles on it. It lived its first few years in michigan and then the rest in colorado until I had it shipped to vermont. The guy I bought it from had the manifold machined and new gaskets and hoses put in throughout the entire engine. The engine is solid and runs great (not to mention only has 113,000 miles on it). The problem is the rest of the truck. I spent about 2000 having the axel wipes replaced and the oil pan and rear main seals changed along with a few other things. Now it needs another 2000 worth of frame rust work done (repair/replace left frame member, new cross spans, new catalitic converter, new bushings all the way around). Once that's done, the guy tells me for another 4500 I can have the two small holes in the back fixed and all other rust spots done up, everything undercoated to prevent more rust, and the whole thing painted. Whew! Should I have all this done? If I do, I'm looking at a 13,000 dollar cruiser that has had almost every major part replaced/fixed and a new paint job to boot. I just don't know if its worth it. It seems to me I could buy a completely rust free 60 from california or somewhere with a few more miles for under $8000. What would you do? I could probably fix the structural rust for $1000 and sell it around here for $7000 or so and almost break even - or I could write the big check and keep what I have. By the way, the repair shop I've been going to is completely reliable and mostly does frame up restorations on land rovers. Thanks, Eric

 

[Landpimp]

I would cut my looses, fix what needs to be fixed, dump it. replace with a nice clean, rot free 60. Not sure if it's worth 7k in the condition you mention but in your area it might be.

John H

 

[60wag]

It sounds like the big cost is for cosmetic body work. That makes it optional. Repairing the frame/crossmembers is functional. That makes it a requirement.

For many people, a clean rust free, dent free car/truck is a requirement. These are people without much to do so they focus on the cosmetic things. IMHO, once you've got the engine and driveline dialed in, go have fun with your Cruiser and the body be damned. A rust free Cruiser is a nice thing to have, or to be looking for when shopping for another one but if its already rusty, don't get hung up on it unless you enjoy doing your own body work or have too much money.

Is it worth fixing the crossmember on your current ride? Tough call if you have to pay shop rates. I would lean towards yes - fix it and leave the body alone. and don't bother with undercoating. You can spend a lot of time looking for the perfect Cruiser. I know, I have. I find I'm a lot happier with the current one once I put a nice dent in the rocker panel.

 

[Mike S]

You can buy a very nice clean FJ60 in CA or AZ for about $6K to $8K. Then spend another $6K (installed price) on OME, tires, and a new H55F. Then the $13K truck will be worth $13K.

Just a thot.

Mike S

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You can get rot free 60's around here for $3-6k. I got a saggy but garaged 1 owner rot free 60 for $3000 about a year ago and its been my daily ride since. If you could find one at the low end of the range, ship to vermont and put your good stuff like motor and rebuilt front axle under it, then sell or part out your current 60 you might come out ahead. If you have enough rot for structural frame problems, plus body rot there is probably more rust everywhere else as well. Why Toyota didn't spend and extra $100 galvanizing all the metal is beyond me. The 60 is otherwise so overbuilt they would last a lifetime. Moral of story-don't buy a cruiser from the midwest!

 

[vtcruiser60]

Whoa....I am in Burlington, VT and own an 84 FJ60 with 216k. Before you sell the house to finance the truck, drop me your e-mail address.

 

[mudpaws]

I know, it really bothers me how poorly the undercarriages of these trucks were preserved (by using any kind of rust inhibitor/preventative chemical). It's true, Cruisers are extremely tough and 'overbuilt' from the factory...A true utilitarian survivalist rig. I love these things and what I've seen happen to them (body/interior-wise) at the mercy of Mother Nature over the past 12 years that I've been into them is very sad

 

[Cookiemonster]

I would cut my looses, fix what needs to be fixed, dump it. replace with a nice clean, rot free 60. Not sure if it's worth 7k in the condition you mention but in your area it might be.

John H

Yup!!!

Do as LP says. That truck will become a hole. I wouldn't dump it but use it as a parts bitch. Seeing as how much you've put into so far. Just put the remaineder of the cash you would have spent on it into a cleaner truck.

 

[Cruisergreg]

These are people without much to do so they focus on the cosmetic things. IMHO, once you've got the engine and driveline dialed in, go have fun with your Cruiser and the body be damned.

Body rust can be ignored...to a point. Don't forget that its the sheet metal of the body that provides structural integrity to everything north of the frame. Your odd rocker panel hole is aesthetic; significant rust in the floor especially near the body mounts can be a big safety issue.

 

[BadgerManBEN]

I say you should join the save a cruiser foundation and put your heart and money into saving a cruiser. Don't pay $4,500 for someone else to fix it, put that money into tools to do it yourself. Since it is just cosmetic you have time to learn how to do it yourself if you are motivated enough.

 

[MDH33]

Anyone notice that this thread is THREE YEARS OLD?