Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (2 Viewers)

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On street. Yikes.

OK, cut the pipe low. Let it hang there. Get a bolt the size of the pipe after you cut it and JB weld it in there.

Air pump. Remove. Get a air pump elimination bracket from www.tlcperformance.com
 
I need less work. The car is parked on the street and I need the city to leave me alone so the goal is to get it running first.


Sounds cheap and easy. This I like.


I'm definitely going sniper. I've had it for a week now. Sadly, I still need an electric pump. I also need to do something about the air pump. Then may just maybe I'll go for headers.


I would try a torch as well. Kroil or PB blaster torch it and repeat till it comes off!
 
Grab the pump bracket from TLC and then @FJ60Cam can get you squared away on your fuel pump options.
 
Dustin,
Hope your holiday was good. Looking through your photos of the speaker adapter install, things might not be installed the way I "intended". I'm sure it will still work, but the adapter gets attached to the speaker first, the head of the screw goes in the recess of the 4 holes so they are flush with the back and the nut goes on the speaker side, then you mount it to the truck using the 3 factory locations. Probably not a big deal, just don't want the speaker to come loose on you.
 
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Dustin,
Hope your holiday was good. Looking through your photos of the speaker adapter install, things might not be installed the way I "intended". I'm sure it will still work, but the adapter gets attached to the speaker first, the head of the screw goes in the recess of the 4 holes so they are flush with the back and the nut goes on the speaker side, then you mount it to the truck using the 3 factory locations. Probably not a big deal, just don't want the speaker to come loose on you.

Adapt and over come right? I think I have them locked down pretty good. I ran speaker screws through door panel as well. So they are locked down!
 
So I'm out wheeling today for the first time with the Sniper. Low speed low rpm rock crawling mostly. Low geared...
I'm getting a very pronounced on-off-on surging issue, more so under load... it is almost as if I'm stepping on the throttle and off the throttle and on the throttle and off the throttle. It revs up a few hundred RPM and then drops revs up and then drops. It seems to happen more in the idle to 1800 RPM range. It seems to not be noticeable when I'm in high range on the street I would imagine because the momentum of the engine and transmission dampen any surging that might be happening.
I just got off the trail and I tried calling Holley but they are overloaded with calls for the rest of the day so I'm going to have to wait. Has anybody experienced anything like this?
 
Pretty sure it is fuel delivery. Filters are new a week ago. The truck was running fine prior, not an old tank. And it is not dropping out, it it surging up ..

Pull the regulator out of the mix. Go filter - pump - filter - Sniper - return

Make sure your filters are rated for high pressure
 
Well after upping the idle I was not seeing the same level of the problem. I can't say it is gone but it is greatly reduced. Is that because of the idle speed, more learning time or...? I don't know. Holley tech support requested I run a log when it is happening but it didn't so I didn't.
I blew up my rear diff wheeling at CMCC so it'll be off the road for a while. Once back I need to talk to Holley about the IAC, AF and idle numbers I'm seeing. More on that then.
Thanks all.
 
Give me a shout. We modify an inexpensive off-the-shelf adapter so that it sits on the FJ60 carb insulator, which is perfect for getting the height to clear the manifold studs and also acts as a heat shield for the Sniper computer. Comes with all mounting hardware.

I try to keep new carb insulators in stock too.

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If the manifold has 4 bolts sticking out that align with the holes in the insulator then how does the adapter attach?
 
If the manifold has 4 bolts sticking out that align with the holes in the insulator then how does the adapter attach?

Remove the studs from the manifold, and attach the adapter with the 4 supplied allen head metric SS bolts.


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Remove the studs from the manifold, and attach the adapter with the 4 supplied allen head metric SS bolts.


View attachment 2031419
They actually came out pretty easy. I thought I was going to have the chop them.


Does anyone know what that thing is coming out of the lower t-stat housing? Also, I know I can put sniper temp sensor there but is it actually a good place? I've seen others go straight in to the block, but I've been leaning towards the spot where the temp gauge plugs in to the head.

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They actually came out pretty easy. I thought I was going to have the chop them.


Does anyone know what that thing is coming out of the lower t-stat housing? Also, I know I can put sniper temp sensor there but is it actually a good place? I've seen others go straight in to the block, but I've been leaning towards the spot where the temp gauge plugs in to the head.

View attachment 2036883

That is one of the vacuum switching valves for the smog system. You can leave it as is or plug it. You’ll have to extend the temp sender wires if you put the sender there, the lead is too short. But it works.
 
I vote header! It’s a bit more work, but really cleans up the engine bay.
All.i can say is WOW...... And THANK YOU @Dustin Messina for starting this EFI thread. My rig is a new rig...and the Headers + EFI...WOW...wish I did it 7 years ago. Fires right up, EVERY TIME! at all different altitudes. Noticable more torque!!! Driveability is immensely better....sooooo much more fun to drive + it was alrdy rather fun!!!

I vote Header too!!!
Screenshot_20190723-043843.png
 
They actually came out pretty easy. I thought I was going to have the chop them.


Does anyone know what that thing is coming out of the lower t-stat housing? Also, I know I can put sniper temp sensor there but is it actually a good place? I've seen others go straight in to the block, but I've been leaning towards the spot where the temp gauge plugs in to the head.

View attachment 2036883

I ran mine there at first and you can get it to reach, but its tight. I moved mine to the rear block drain and its a better location with a better temp reading. I would just block both of those holes on thermo housing.
 
All.i can say is WOW...... And THANK YOU @Dustin Messina for starting this EFI thread. My rig is a new rig...and the Headers + EFI...WOW...wish I did it 7 years ago. Fires right up, EVERY TIME! at all different altitudes. Noticable more torque!!! Driveability is immensely better....sooooo much more fun to drive + it was alrdy rather fun!!!

I vote Header too!!!View attachment 2037241
Looking good! Holley knocked it out of the park with the Sniper no doubt. It really wakes up the 2f!
 

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