Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (8 Viewers)

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Can someone who’s installed a Mosley kit and/or used the Lokar cable and bracket show me how they ran the cable on the firewall/pedal side please?


1985 FJ60

I checked for clearance, drilled from inside out, ran cable, marked gas pedal where cable hit, removed pedal and drilled a hole to accept the barrel on the end of the cable, test fit, remove and prime/paint, reinstall. Normal pedal feel and up to 98% TPS.
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wngrog

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The cable needs to be secured where it cannot even get a whiff of the header. These cables have an inner sheath that the wire slides on and if you bump it into the header it’s a goner.
 
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So here’s my dilemma fellas. Attempted to start the truck and I have a pretty spectacular fuel leak from the feed line fitting. When attaching them, I didn’t like how they felt when threading in, but I gave it the old college try. Comparing my visible threads to Dustin’s in post #17, something with my fittings or my fuel pump hat is askew. Unless I have the fittings screwed in backwards, I don’t know what else it could be. I’m lucky if I got maybe 2 turns out of those fittings before they wouldn’t go any further. Anyone run into this? I contacted Mosley but haven’t heard back yet.

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Put some fuel safe RTV on the threads. Standards on threads are low.
They have aviation sealant all over them. What do you mean by standards on threads?

I can try some RTV on them if you think it will help, but I’m not sure if two(ish) turns on the fitting is going to seal 50 something psi.
And not to sound too bougie, but I’m doing this on my back on the garage floor. I’d really like to make sure I don’t have to drain the fuel and drop the tank 47 times to remedy this- I don’t want to cut a hole in the truck for access, which I know would make it so much easier.
 
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wngrog

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If where you circled is where it is leaking you likely have a case of the male black threads being slightly off from the brass female.

They were likely built in two different parts of china


You need some fuel safe thread locker. Not aviation permatex.

This is what I use

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If where you circled is where it is leaking you likely have a case of the male black threads being slightly off from the brass female.

They were likely built in two different parts of china


You need some fuel safe thread locker. Not aviation permatex.

This is what I use

View attachment 3079115
Good to know, thanks. So should I just crank on them and hope I don’t shear one off and use some thread locker? I don’t mind getting new ones but how will I know if the new ones will be correct or not?
Edit: and thanks for all the advice, I know you’ve done multiple conversions so your knowledge is appreciated.
 
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This seems to be the official Sniper thread so wanted to share a hiccup to see if anyone had any ideas. Have been running the Sniper for about 2 years with very favorable results. This past week driving from KC to Ouray, we experienced crazy AFR values (mostly high red) with a poorly running engine as we were peaking Monarch Pass.

In pulling over, we noticed a strong gas odor in the cab and the gas tank was gurgling. Cap would give swishing sound when opened. Waited 15 minutes and the truck fire up and ran fine until the next pass climb. Under load, the AFR values were again going all over the place and engine died. Waited another 15 minutes and truck ran great rest of trip.

When we got to Ouray, we swapped the O2 sensor and the truck ran great all week on the trails. The one we replaced looked fine though. On the way back to KC, we experienced the same AFF issues climbing under load. Also noticed the strong gas smell again? Once on flatter ground, the truck ran great (AFR cruise value at 14) all the way back to KC.

Since we are smelling gas and hearing the gas tank gurgle when this AFR stall occurs, could the problem source be my charcoal canister or venting issues with the gas tank? Seemed to be more prevalent after filling up the tank and driving under load with abrupt altitude changes. I'm running an inline fuel pump, pre / post filters and a Delco charcoal canister. Gas cap is also vented to eliminate pressure building up in the tank. Strange this only happened on the highway traveling to and from. Truck ran great on the trails with no AFR issues. Any thoughts before I jump into analyzing data logs?
 

Zjohnsonua

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This seems to be the official Sniper thread so wanted to share a hiccup to see if anyone had any ideas. Have been running the Sniper for about 2 years with very favorable results. This past week driving from KC to Ouray, we experienced crazy AFR values (mostly high red) with a poorly running engine as we were peaking Monarch Pass.

In pulling over, we noticed a strong gas odor in the cab and the gas tank was gurgling. Cap would give swishing sound when opened. Waited 15 minutes and the truck fire up and ran fine until the next pass climb. Under load, the AFR values were again going all over the place and engine died. Waited another 15 minutes and truck ran great rest of trip.

When we got to Ouray, we swapped the O2 sensor and the truck ran great all week on the trails. The one we replaced looked fine though. On the way back to KC, we experienced the same AFF issues climbing under load. Also noticed the strong gas smell again? Once on flatter ground, the truck ran great (AFR cruise value at 14) all the way back to KC.

Since we are smelling gas and hearing the gas tank gurgle when this AFR stall occurs, could the problem source be my charcoal canister or venting issues with the gas tank? Seemed to be more prevalent after filling up the tank and driving under load with abrupt altitude changes. I'm running an inline fuel pump, pre / post filters and a Delco charcoal canister. Gas cap is also vented to eliminate pressure building up in the tank. Strange this only happened on the highway traveling to and from. Truck ran great on the trails with no AFR issues. Any thoughts before I jump into analyzing data logs?

Gurgling fuel tank is a strong indicator. Given that the system clears itself up after a brief wait it sounds like you're venting too slowly. I'm curious, did the fuel pump get quieter around this same time?
 
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The pump did seem to operate louder at altitude but is acting normal now back on flat ground. It was loud as we were trying to restart the truck. Seems to be having venting issues only at altitude under extended loads. What could be causing pressure to build in the gas tank under these condition and any ideas to improve venting? Would a tank mounted fuel pump eliminate this issue?
 

wngrog

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I add a little hole from the inside out of the stock gas cap. You will boost the venting back there. There is a cavity in there that won’t allow the hole to go all the way through.

As said above, also check the charcoal system.
 

Zjohnsonua

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These inline pumps get quieter as tank pressure increases since the tank pressure is effectively pushing fuel into the pump. You say yours got even louder, though, so you have something else going on.

I don't regret moving to an in-tank at all. I kick myself for dealing with the in-line shenanigans as long as I did.
 

MoaByte

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My o2 sensor is acting wacky again. The less expensive replacement: Bosch WBO2
Now to find the best deal.
 
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Question for those with some miles on theirs. Mine doesn’t want to cold start to save it’s life. It’ll start and die probably 2 or 3 times before it’ll start, idle really low, and slowly rise to around 1000rpm. Is that something that will self learn and get better the more I drive? I haven’t put more than 10 miles on it since the conversion. I’ve tried adjusting the coolant temp enrichment up to near 200% and it doesn’t do anything for cold start in my case. Should I just drive it more? The problem I see is that it isn’t learning below 160° so how will it learn?
Otherwise, it’s a drastic difference with how much better it runs.
 

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