Builds 1985 FJ60 Gets a Holley Sniper EFI Setup (1 Viewer)

klinetime574

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I just cleaned up my throttle cable (one that came with Mosley kit) the firewall pass through was a little long. It was hitting the pedal arm. Added some washers to pull the threads into the engine bay. Also filed the hole I drilled a little bit. Alignment wasn’t perfect. Here’s hoping it is smoother and works better. Didn’t really have any complaints before. It’s just different going from carb to FI.
 
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I haven't been on this thread for a while, but, for a hoppy idle, rich/lean bouncing around after a long deceleration in gear and general unexplained fuel/air adjustments by the sniper, I found the miracle cure.... and its not add fuel and bump the idle up.

drum roll.........


Adjust your f***ing valves.

this thing went from a rough idle, occasional surging at idle, swinging back and forth from rich to lean when switching back to closed loop after cruising down and occasionally stalling, to purring like a kitten.

you can set the idle anywhere you want (smooth at 650), and bump up the F/A at idle. save some gas and the atmosphere. :)
 
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Now for the question. What is the consensus on where to dump the charcoal canister?
I took out the fan and moved the canister there, and used the canister spot for the aux 60psi fuel pump.
 

wngrog

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I haven't been on this thread for a while, but, for a hoppy idle, rich/lean bouncing around after a long deceleration in gear and general unexplained fuel/air adjustments by the sniper, I found the miracle cure.... and its not add fuel and bump the idle up.

drum roll.........


Adjust your f***ing valves.

this thing went from a rough idle, occasional surging at idle, swinging back and forth from rich to lean when switching back to closed loop after cruising down and occasionally stalling, to purring like a kitten.

you can set the idle anywhere you want (smooth at 650), and bump up the F/A at idle. save some gas and the atmosphere. :)

My answer to 89% of Sniper tune issues is the Sniper is getting a bad input.

Fuel. Vaccum. Spark. O2
 

MoaByte

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I haven't been on this thread for a while, but, for a hoppy idle, rich/lean bouncing around after a long deceleration in gear and general unexplained fuel/air adjustments by the sniper, I found the miracle cure.... and its not add fuel and bump the idle up.

drum roll.........


Adjust your f***ing valves.

this thing went from a rough idle, occasional surging at idle, swinging back and forth from rich to lean when switching back to closed loop after cruising down and occasionally stalling, to purring like a kitten.

you can set the idle anywhere you want (smooth at 650), and bump up the F/A at idle. save some gas and the atmosphere. :)
I got a flicker on the MAP that indicates a valve not seating properly. I suspected it was playing hell with the Sniper. It still runs pretty good but I'm hesitant to pull the head as I'm so busy and need the rig.
 
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I got a flicker on the MAP that indicates a valve not seating properly. I suspected it was playing hell with the Sniper. It still runs pretty good but I'm hesitant to pull the head as I'm so busy and need the rig.
Maybe do the “sea foam” desperation move…. Never had it work myself, but….
 

MoaByte

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Maybe do the “sea foam” desperation move…. Never had it work myself, but….
I did try it😄. I got some white smoke, readjusted the valves, even beat on the closed valves with a hammer. Now I'm doing the next best thing until I can pull the head and that is living in denial.
 
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I did try it😄. I got some white smoke, readjusted the valves, even beat on the closed valves with a hammer. Now I'm doing the next best thing until I can pull the head and that is living in denial.
It’s a low compression tractor motor. You can live like that for a decade.
 
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Kind of a stupid question, but is there a provision in a 60 tank for a pump, or does a hole HAVE to be drilled?

Edit: I figured it out. Gotta drill.
 
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Zjohnsonua

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Hole has to be drilled if you want to use an in-tank pump. Not a hard task though.
 
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Depending on the wheeling and capabilities of the truck, I prefer the subtank route. the 60 tanks will slosh around empty, and an in tank HP pump may suck air under the right conditions. Using the mechanical pump to keep a sub tank topped off is kinda like having a huge carb bowl to keep the engine fed.
 

Zjohnsonua

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Depending on the wheeling and capabilities of the truck, I prefer the subtank route. the 60 tanks will slosh around empty, and an in tank HP pump may suck air under the right conditions. Using the mechanical pump to keep a sub tank topped off is kinda like having a huge carb bowl to keep the engine fed.

The photo below shows the factory fuel pickup and the tray it lives in. The hole we're talking about drilling is directly above this tray. If you remove the pickup assembly, cap the pick-up mounting hole, and install an in-tank module in the location we're referring to then you are no more susceptible to fuel starvation issues than Toyota originally allowed.

The second photo was taken with 1/4 tank of fuel with a factory pickup. It never glitched. Yoshi did a pretty good job in my opinion.

20210601_205351.jpg


15.png
 
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Sure. Have at it. I'm not sure where the argument is.

My experience is anecdotal, but I'm not fretting any angle for any reason for any length of time. The fuel has nowhere to drain. I think since the cost and complication are negligible and simply bolt on, its great. No dropping the tank for pump replacement now or in the future. Hell, a side effect is the pump living its entire life fully submerged, and heat is what kills HP electric pumps. I love it. Sometimes easy really is better.
 
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You really ought to try the extension arm.
I didn't know they made one. At first I looked into adapting the cable attachment cam from a GM TBI as its progressive and not static, but that looked like s*** ton of work and hacking up the holley. So when I set mine up I made an extention with a bunch of holes so I could keep resetting the system and try different extension points, until I found one where I had smooth tip in, but WOT. I intended to go back and replace the hokey looking beta contraption with something more refined, but... it works. I went as low as 45%, and I think 75% is where I liked it.

From the factory the linear arc of the butterfly cam is way to aggressive for this motors airflow and adjusting the springs for a snappy return without being sticky when pressed seemed impossible. I couldn't get it right. Once again, anecdotal.
 
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How long did you folks let your tank “air out” before you drilled a hole? I’m afraid of blowing myself up. It’s been sitting outside with the level Sensor out all day. Good enough? Also, do you just cap the feed and return ports on the factory low pressure pickup and move on?
 

Zjohnsonua

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Tipped it on its corner, soaked up all the liquid, and pointed a little squirrel cage fan at the opening for a half hour. It was dry and fumeless when I got back to it.
 
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I’ve been reading furiously for the past few months on Sniper installs and wanted to say thanks to the OP and all of those that contributed to this thread. I read several other threads and they were helpful as well but this seams to be the “question and answer” thread and reading all of the problems that others had and the answers from the old guard that had “been there and done that” made my install go smoothly.

I did have a good laugh at myself after reading post #645 wngrog “The average backyard mechanic can have a Sniper set up and running with basic skills in an afternoon.” I’m way off pace 🤣🤣🤣

So thanks to y’all I have successfully installed the Sniper, today was test drive day 2.
1B811D51-FEFC-4AE6-B4A0-3771D78BF21E.jpeg
 
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Can someone who’s installed a Mosley kit and/or used the Lokar cable and bracket show me how they ran the cable on the firewall/pedal side please?
 

wngrog

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Can someone who’s installed a Mosley kit and/or used the Lokar cable and bracket show me how they ran the cable on the firewall/pedal side please?

I do it different for every type pedal.

What brand Land Cruiser do you have?
 

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