Builds 1985 BJ70 Story and Modifications (11 Viewers)

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So I recruited my friend Chuck, from Creative Assistive Devices LLC to help me build a similar board for the back of the BJ70. Chuck does wood-work for a living and has a CNC table with a router.

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We started by having the table scan the factory carpet section to get an idea of the curves on the wheel wells:

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And then played with the created file to modify the dimensions slightly to give it some clearance, since the factory carpet climbs a little bit on the rear and sides of the vehicle

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We then had the table cut a few pieces of thin wood to do test fitting before cutting the actual wood piece. Once we were happy with the fit, we proceeded to cut the actual board. I wanted to extend the board almost to the rear center console of the 70 to maximize the amount of horizontal cargo space.

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And then verify fitment on the vehicle

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That is really slick Alberto ... I like where this is going :cheers:
 
We then cut holes on the rear center of the board to use the factory rear seat anchor bolts as tie down spots for the Pelican cases and the board itself. We had a little miss-calculation and one of the rectangular openings turned out to the twice the size that it should have been (we were off by about 3 inches) :confused:

It is not a big deal, but I know it is not the way it was planned so it bothered us a little bit hahaha :bang:

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Then, to match the wood theme on the inside of the truck (Bamboo cutting board on the rear table), we decided not to carpet the board, but apply wood sealer and clear it instead.

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I asked Chuck to burn his logo on the board to remember and acknowledge his work and help on this little project

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And then the almost final product. I have to bolt down the Power Tank bracket and Engel fridge bracket, but that is yet to come.

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So you were once on the "DARK SIDE"? :)
 
Fun stuff! How are you going to secure the main board to the cargo area?
 
Fun stuff! How are you going to secure the main board to the cargo area?

Very nice I'v been thinking up something like this myself!

Same question as fireball

@fireball and @NM Frontier,

The idea is that the Power Tank bracket and the Engel fridge tray stay permanently bolted to the cargo board and then use tie down loops to secure the cargo on top of the board and perhaps even strap the board to the truck using the same loops. When securing the cargo on top of the board, then the board would also become secured by everything on top being strapped down. I hope this makes sense. The 3 photos below are that I found in another website that illustrate the idea perhaps better than I can articulate:

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My thought for the board is to be able to provide a firm bolting platform for a few things without having to drill holes on the floor of the 70. As it is, the Power Tank bracket uses 4-5 bolts and the Engel tray uses 4 bolts (about 9 total). I will install cargo loops like the ones shown above on the factory seat bracket bolts, on the lower rear seat belt mounting bolt, and in a couple of other places that I have yet to decide (without drilling any holes to the floor). I will also use the two rear seat mounting feet (in the center where the two rectagles were cut on the board) as anchor points.

I presented the Power Tank and Power Tank mounting bracket where I want to install it to figure out bolt length and how easy would be to inflate the four tires without having to remove the tank from the bracket. Nothing is bolted yet, I am just putting things on top for visual indication.

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If I want to put the rear seat back in there, I just remove the board and remove the cargo loops to secure the seat with the factory bolts as intended.

-Alberto
 
in the event of a flip or roll over or, heaven forbid, a head on collision i would suggest you anchor the tank to the floor AND the aluminum panel.
last thing you want is to have a tank or a fridge nail you or your passenger in the back of the head.
go overboard with locking that stuff down.

even a loose can of pop could give you something to remember for decades to come.
 
in the event of a flip or roll over or, heaven forbid, a head on collision i would suggest you anchor the tank to the floor AND the aluminum panel.
last thing you want is to have a tank or a fridge nail you or your passenger in the back of the head.
go overboard with locking that stuff down.

even a loose can of pop could give you something to remember for decades to come.

I will try to figure out extra attatchment points for the Power Tank. Trying to balance the weight of the cargo with the spare tire being on the right side of the vehicle, and also trying to make it so I can access the Engel fridge by just opening the little rear door (left) while having enough room to load and unload camping gear and tools easily when needed.

Thanks for the advice, Wayne @crushers. I see this project as a collective work where input and additional ideas are always welcomed.

-Alberto
 
While safety is paramount, easy access to the beer is also important. :)
 
Another video I want to share with you guys to a trip my buddies back home did to San Juan de Manapiare (Venezuela) back in 2013 and they just put the video together. The trip was completed in three 70-series (FZJ71) and one 40-series (FJ40).

Hope you guys enjoy the video!

 
Great video Alberto! Gawd, I love the sound of an 8274 at work :hillbilly:
 
A couple of weeks ago I bought a YodaTEQ @yodaTEQ Engine Compartment Lighting (ECL) Kit to install it on the BJ70. I bought the kit that is specifically designed for the 80-series, but it fits perfectly on the 70-series as well. No modifications are needed to use the 80-series kit on a 70-series. I, however, wired mine a little different. The kit comes with a hood-switch to activate the light system, but I figured that not all the time that you open the hood you would want the light on. I guess that you could simply remove the in-line fuse on the positive lead of the wiring, and install the fuse when you need the light.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/engine-compartment-lights-–-e-c-l-by-yodateq.864523/#post-9803407

Initially, I thought about using a dash-switch in addition to the hood-switch so that way I could control when the light is on/off regardless of whether the hood is open or not (that way I couldn't leave the light on when the hood is closed (redundant system)), but then I didn't feel like drilling to install the hood-switch and just wired mine to a simple in-dash Carling switch.

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I am VERY happy with the light output of the kit. All the materials used on the kit are high-quality with 3M adhesives on the back of the light-strip and all the wires are nicely braided for a clean/finished look. The kit comes complete with everything shown on the list below, and Frank @yodaTEQ even included a piece of wire so you can fish the main wires under the hood insulator.

Kit includes:
One (1) Engine Compartment Light (E.C.L.) LED w/ 3M VHB Tape
One (1) Inline AC Fuse Holder
Three (3) Cable Mounts with 3m VHB Tape
Two (2) ATC Fuses
One (1) Pin Switch – ground activated
Four (4) 6″ Zip Ties – Self locking nylon cable
Six (6) 8″ Zip Ties – Self locking nylon cable

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Here is the instructional video that YodaTEQ put together for the kit:

 
I am surprised you have not gotten Rob to make something like this up yet ;)
 

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