1985 3B engine rebuild due to blowby: No! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 11, 2020
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Location
Leverkusen , Germany
Hi diesel experts

I'm debating myself on how to fix my tired 3B engine.
So this may become a longer therad: From diagnosis, over planning to chasing parts and eventual rebuild or fix.

The backstory:
I own a 1985 BJ73, with a 3B (iteration 1) engine for three years now. 320 000km total on the odo, 15k put on it by myself. It is the original engine to the vehicle.

Apparently the engine has never been opened: Still the original composite head gasket on it (after 2000 latest one would have used the steel gasket, I guess) and also no telltale of wrenching or impact driver marks on any bolt (including crankshaft pulley bolt). Glow plugs are new for sure and probably the injectors may have been rebuild (who knows).

The engine actually runs fine: Starts on first rev, doesn't consume any oil, no suspicious smoke, no rough idle, accepts throttle well, no leaks, no fume or oil in coolant.

Cooling works fine: As the original gauge is not accurat, I installed a motometer gauge. Since I run it with the original sensor, the gauge is not calibrated for, the reading isn't an exact figure. But the gauge is very sensitive, so I can see slightest changes in the temperature. No signs of overheating by any means. When warmed up, the temp sits at constant levels, even at 90-100km/h (56-62 mph) on the Autobahn. 5° increase on inclines, nicely coming down when going level again.

Oil pressure builds up a bit slow on first start: On nearly idle, EDIC may shut it down before pressure comes up, so, despite it starts fine with little throttle, one would need to wind the throttle up in order to help with oil pressure. When it had run and is warm, oil pressure is no issue at all.

** BUT it has significant blowby: ** The oil cap dances rock 'n roll on the oil filling opening and the crankcase ventilation pipe emits so much exhaust gas, one can clearly see it and smell it in the cab. Also the engine is tiered. The 3B certainly is not a rocket in the BJ73, but some horses must have left the stable.
It wasn't great already when I got the truck, but it slowly worsens.

I'm now at the point I do not trust the engine any more, and I do not dare asking anything high power from, it as I fear to overstrain it. Going inclines or offroad always comes with concerns.
So, I 'm debating to have it rebuild. I want it trusty and (to the possible extent of an old 3B) powerful again.

(Yes, I know: I should consider an engine swap. But engine swaps come with legal and tax implications in Germany. I also see no suitable, reliable engine, that would be plug&play, anywhere available here. I unlikely can afford both, a different engine plus a rebuild on thatone. Any fancy conversion is out of the question for me, too. The engine is original to the vehicle, which I honor and value.)

But how to approach this situation on such an old 3B?

QUESTION:
Considering the symptoms: Is a full rebuild actually likely to be necessary? Should I go for compression test and 'drop of oil in cylinder' first, hoping I get away with finding & fixing a valve issue only? Or do 320 000km make the piston rings likely to be the culprit? Or do 320 000 km in general call for a rebuild of block and pistons?

Certainly a full rebuild would be favorable, particularly considering the availability of parts, which is rapidly decreasing for the 3B.
But eventually it is a question of budget for work and parts.
I neither have the abilities nor the tools nor room to do a rebuild myself. So I would need to leave any rebuild with an expert shop.

QUESTION:
What parts would typically need to be replaced (considering nothings is damaged, just worn)? (I don't want to replace everything that could be replaced; just the wearing parts).
Does anybody have a parts list for this purpose for a 3B (iteration 1 1984-1988)? (I'm always concerned about having all small parts covered, like wahers, gaskets, single-use parts ..)

What would be the best strategy to source parts, in order to keep the time for the rebuild down?
I can certainly make a plan with the expert on what to replace, setup a parts list (with help of you guys here) and get them sourced before the endeavor starts.

But QUESTION: How to deal with those parts that come in classes and must match (e.g. 1 2 3 or 1.0, 0.75...) or are even subject to measure the wear (like e.g. piston, rings, sleeves). I guess I have to open the engine first to see or probably measure what is needed? Which would mean I have to plan for two or more weeks pause to get the parts in?

Any advice is highly appreciated.
Thanks Ralf
 
I did a rebuild on a 3B a few years ago. Rather had a shop/professional do it. I bought a full kit from Engines Australia.

I had a 3B manual I loaned to the shop, so they had all the specs that they needed.

My head and precups were cracked and I got one from Engines Australia as well. I think it was around $1000 usd for the kit and head shipped to my door and came really fast, like 3-days after I ordered it was delivered.

Only other hiccup I had was my cam was worn and needed repaired/rebuilt. The shop had it sent off and was re-worked by another specialist. they build up the lobes, then machine/.grind them back into spec. After I had this done, I found someone selling a NOS cam...so they're available.

Good luck with your project, I don't have much more to contribute.

Dan
 
Seems very odd that it’s worn out.

I have a 3B with 320,000km. Compression test came back great.

Would be interested to see the oil cap dance around; every 3B I have owned has suffered from the rock ‘n’ roll oil cap. I was told it’s normal, as the 3B being a 4 cylinder apparently has “stronger pressure pulses compared to a 6 cylinder”

However if you have lots of smoke coming out of the pushrod cover that’s concerning.

I wouldn’t do anything until you do a compression test.
 
When is the last time you did a valve adjustment? Start there. If still the same, then do dry and wet compression. If good, i would do valve stem seals with head on, there is a way to do this with taking glow plug off and pressurizing the ignition chamber so valves do not drop into cylinder bore. If compression sucks, you know what you need to do.
 
When is the last time you did a valve adjustment? Start there.

Then injector rebuilds, check of air filter, new fuel filter, tyre pressure check.. Baseline it, there may be some gains to be had, I wouldnt be rushing to a rebuild yet.
 
I would do a compression test or have your favorite mechanic do it.
At the same time I would be looking for a machine shop that would work with you on this project that might require shipped parts from the other side of the world.
I think you know your truck better than anyone else so if you distrust the engine, it is probably in need of serious help.
Check compression first though.
 
Thank you, guys.
I hear you all saying: "Do an analysis by pressure test, first", and "Go from small (e.g valve adjust, stem seals) first"
Apparently none of you guys, considering the age and odo, really expects the piston rings to be the culprit. (Subject to analysis, though).
@Owyhee Jackass Thank you for pointing me to Engines Australia for parts.

To the questions:
The engine was baselined 15k km ago, when I first had it. Fuel- and air filters had been replaced 5k km ago and recently checked. Oil is new (2 weeks / 800km) 15W14 mineral. Valve adjustment is due, true, but it also had significant blowby when valve clearance was just adjusted back the day.

So, I'll do valve clearance and find a shop to do a dry / wet compression test...
Cheers Ralf
(going on a drive now. Will shoot a video of dancing filler cap and gas emissions from valve cover and ventilation pipe).
 
Like I said before It seems unusual it’s dead.

I’ve seen these things run amazing with 550,000km- never had issues with mine.

Good luck.
 
I hate all these people doing the "oil cap dance test" it has no tangible benefit. As others have said, compression and leak down tests, those kms are kinda low, I would doubt the rings are worn out.
 
^^^^ this. Experience speaking!!!
 
And for what it’s worth, compression testing pays off, for me to compression test my 3B it only took 20 minuets, and then you get to know if your engines rock solid or a dud.

You can buy a cheap compression tester online - I bought one for $40 and it works well - just make sure they don’t get dirty.

Ideal compression numbers should be 427psi warm, anything less than than 280psi is rebuild time.
 
Hi all
Yes, I hear you.
I did valve clearance today. Wasn't actually out of spec.
Also spoke to a trusted mechanic: He can do a compression test and pressure leak test on the engine, which he considers more precise and telling. Just need to find the time.

In my defense: It wasn't all about the 'dance test' only, but notable amounts of grey exhaust smoke coming from the filling hole and the ventilation pipe.
And I came here to ask advice in order to not exactly spend 15k€. I just like my Cruiser and care (and sometimes worry) about it.
I got the advice 👍 I was looking for, which I will follow. Thank you. Highly appreciated.
I'll post here what the result of the test is. May just take a few days.
Thank you Ralf
 
they all have blowby, but it can still be a good indication of the engines condition if you know what isnt normal.

if it "chuffs" with the oil filler cap removed, think steam engine, there will be one or more pot low on compression.
 
I dump all kinds of money into projects that make no sense to anyone but me.
I like to expand my skills and keep old things in working order.
You should do whatever you want Ralf.
 
Hi all
Yes, I hear you.
I did valve clearance today. Wasn't actually out of spec.
Also spoke to a trusted mechanic: He can do a compression test and pressure leak test on the engine, which he considers more precise and telling. Just need to find the time.

In my defense: It wasn't all about the 'dance test' only, but notable amounts of grey exhaust smoke coming from the filling hole and the ventilation pipe.
And I came here to ask advice in order to not exactly spend 15k€. I just like my Cruiser and care (and sometimes worry) about it.
I got the advice 👍 I was looking for, which I will follow. Thank you. Highly appreciated.
I'll post here what the result of the test is. May just take a few days.
Thank you Ralf

Hello,

One detail regarding compression testing that is mentioned in the manual but often overlooked.

In a nutshell:
  1. Check compression.
  2. Pour in some oil in the cylinder.
  3. Check compression again.
  4. If compression improves, then it is time to replace the piston rings.
As mentioned above, the issues you have may have simpler solutions than a rebuild. At 320000 kilometers, the 3B still has a long way to go before rebuilding.

Parts are becoming hard to find, and it is wise to start hoarding them. It is better to have a part and not have immediate use for it than to need that very part and have no source for it.

Last but not least, check Onur / @OGBeno 's thread on the rebuild of his 3B engine.






Juan
 
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Let me wrap-up what happened and where I'm now.

I own the car for 16k km now (3 yrs). It always had some blowby, which I consider normal for that engine type and age. But I lack proper experience or comparison.
However, I noted earlier: The blowby was occasionally swinging in intensity, but could never see a related cause.
The engine did and does not consume significant amounts of oil and starts and runs good.

What made me being concerned and open this threat?
I did an oil change at 319800ish km and shortly after noted a significant smell of 'hot oil' when ideling stationary (even in the cab) and significant plumes of smoke coming from the crankcase ventilation as well as from the oil filling hole. 'Normal' blowby used to be feelable puffs of clear gas / air on the oil filling, but no plumes.
It was a public holiday and I nevertheless took the Cruiser for a 3 day trip to hilly area. The issue persisted and I also noted a loss of power.
The round trip was about 600km. Issue was still there when I returned. I started to scratch my head what to do... 🤔

A week later it was Pentecost weekend, and I went on another trip with the Cruiser. 200km to the campsite. When I started my trip back home, the issue was still there; also when I had a break on my way home. Now I was concerned 😬 and decided to take action.
Round trip was 450km, so the issue persisted for a total of more than 1000km now.
I got home, parked the truck and opened this threat shortly after.

At some point in this treat, I said I'd do a video to show you guys.
Got into the truck, which I hadn't moved since I returned from my last trip, and, guess what:
Checked after start at 'cold': No issue.


Took it for a round to properly warm up: No issue.
Worked it hard on Autobahn at 110km/h at peak: No issue.


After 1100km, the issue had cured itself and is back to 'normal'. 😮
I learned: Yes. Blowby may swing: Even drastically and quite abbrubt.

But I hear your advice:
I adjusted valve clearance (wasn't actually bad).
I had the engine tested for pressure loss today.
Result: The engine is fine! No indication of excessive loss of pressure. Fully in spec. Blowby is apparently really normal (right now). 😃

So, what is now the takeaway from this.
My mechanic and I came up with two possible causes:
a) An injector may occasionally leak. (I have no idea whether those were ever rebuilt)
b) Carbon deposits may have caused a piston ring to seize up or a crumble came loose and blocked a vent from properly sealing.

So, I of course will NOT rebuild the engine. You guys where perfectly correct: At 320kkm, a 3B should still be OK, and mine in general is.
I will however feed the engine some goodies: Nozzle cleaner via the fuel and an 'engine flush' (agent to dissolve carbon deposits) with every oil change.

I was using quality 15W40 oil, but on mineral bases. I guess I continue that, as I was told by my oil dealer that switching to synthetic on old engines may cause trouble, as it interferes with carbon deposit present. Not sure whether that is a myth or not.

I will monitor the situation. If the issue returns (or for any other good reason that might show up) I might consider rebuilding the head (valves, injectors), but not now. And I now know how (very) much time I should grant that engine, before considering such an issue permanent and worth taking action.

Well, that's the end of this story.
I truly appreciate everybody's input and advice to this threat.
Cheers Ralf
 
Super glad you had the problem resolved. 3Bs are quite tough!

Sometimes, it doesn’t hurt to just give it some fuel!
 
Oh Ralph, it seems that your 3B is...

Too hard to die!.jpg
 

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