SOLD 1983 FJ60 w/ 3B Turbo, H42, Locked Rear, Kansas City, MO (1 Viewer)

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We just got a 100 series and this one has to go. $7000 obo.

185xxx miles. 1983 FJ60 that some past owner swapped in a 3B drivetrain supposedly from Canada and added a turbo and intercooler. I've daily driven this truck for 6 of the last 7 years since I got it. Drove it home from Atlanta to Kansas City. This has been a reliable rig as far as I'm concerned. However, the time I spend in the garage on this my wife would say otherwise. Always garaged since I've owned it.

First off: this truck is RUSTY. The brown hides it well, but it's there... kind of everywhere. Also, it leaks. If you're still interested read on.

The details:

Drivetrain
  • Turbo 3B. Yes, this is bar far my favorite feature. The exhaust is just right to get that 4 cylinder diesel clatter and plenty of turbo whine. Driving this around town is just plain fun. On the trail in 4 low it puts down great torque.
  • Injectors rebuilt at a local diesel shop about 10,000 miles ago. Resulted in less black smoke when taking off from a stop.
  • Needs new glow plugs. Stumbles for a bit when starting up cold (cold = below freezing). Gray/blue smoke until it smooths out.
  • Engine block heater. It's been a godsend starting in the cold: starts easily, very smooth, warms fast. HOWEVER the engine block heater seems to have stopped working in the last few weeks. I haven't investigated yet because the temps have been warming up.
  • Engine leaks oil from rear main seal and side covers.
  • Has the 3rd crankshaft pulley and bracket for AC.
  • I looked up the turbo part number. It came from a late 80's Audi. Same with the intercooler. This is main source of the oil leak. Turbo passes oil into the intake then settles and leaks out of the intercooler onto the front frame rail and steering box area. My plan was to get a turbo setup from Georg at Valley Hybrids.
  • I put new silicone flex hoses and legit T-bolt clamps on the turbo lines because the old ones started to fall apart.
  • Turbo builds a solid 10psi of boost. This is limited by the pressure relief valve on the intake line.
  • H42 4 speed. This is starting to show need of a rebuild. Shifting from 1st to 2nd is getting notchy on some shifts. Also leaks oil.
  • Transfer case leaks oil. Shift bracket has been modified to allow shifting into 2 low.
  • Front axle rebuilt myself January 2017 with kit from Cruiser Outfitters.
  • Front third swapped to a 4.11 from a 62 at time of axle rebuild.
  • Rear third swapped to a 4.11 summer of 2017
  • Rear Aussie locker
  • New E brake cable assembly shortly after I bought it. Works perfect still.
  • Transmission mount recently decided it's had enough. Extra vibration. New mount ordered today from Cruiser Outfitters.
  • Fixed front drivers side motor mount. I ordered front mounts for a 3B, and turns out the 2F mounts were kept. Instead of getting new mounts, I thru-bolted the drivers side motor mount with jam nuts. There's enough room to do this, and works well.
Power Steering
  • PSC Motorsports power steering pump model PSC-SP1200X. TC series Extreme Duty PS Pump-SP1200X : Pump Systems and Components, Universal Pumps | PSC Motorsports - performance steering components.
  • There's a thread on this somewhere too. Did the work myself and turned out great. Used an adapter bracket to mount it to the AC compressor mount because I wanted it down low on the engine.
  • Uses a large capacity reservoir, fluid cooler and Redline synthetic.
  • Went this route run adequately run my hydraulic winch, which it does so beautifully.
  • All modifications done are fully reversible.
  • Gearbox is in great shape
  • Rod ends in great shape. Replaced about 4 years ago with 555 brand from Cruiser Outfitters
Electrical
  • Wiring all around isn't the cleanest. Some is my fault the rest I'll blame on the last guy.
  • New Optimas January 2017
  • Real battery isolation using a 200 amp solenoid and a small adjustable timer. The timer is a little circuit board. It's set to switch about 8 seconds after it gets a signal from the key in the ON position (whether or not the engine is running). Then sends power to the output pin that's wired to the solenoid. It's cheap and super simple, but works.
  • Sylvania LED headlights. These are the prototypes that KC Highlights now sells. Got from a friend who did the optical engineering on them to test. Had to wire up some relays to make the high/low work properly due to Toyota's "switched ground" method.
  • Dome light works.
  • Rear cargo light works.
  • Runs an alternator for a 2F engine
  • Manual glow momentary push button switch to the left of the steering wheel
  • Missouri state safety inspection made me replace all 4 corner lenses due to cracking. Got new aftermarket ones from Cruiser Outfitters.
Fuel
  • The truck came with a (Man-A-Fre?) 42ish gallon tank mounted behind the rear axle. Worked great for years. However, the mild steel and thru-bolt mounting method finally did it in. I used my engineering resources and metal shop connection to design and build an aluminum tank. Slightly smaller at about 35 gallons and mounts using straps that I got from an FZJ80 scrap pile. Fuel sender is a floatless type: Floatless Fuel Sending Unit. Stock gauge wasn't compatible, so I installed a matching VDO gauge. Tank isn't perfect as the fullest the gauge will read is a little better than 3/4 because there's some dead space above the fill inlet. Empty is empty.
  • The truck came with a little fuel pump mounted on the firewall. This quit recently, so I got another little pump and mounted it back on the frame by the tank. I later learned that this engine does not need an external pump like this, but I have not removed it.
  • Fuel sender is accessible from a trap door in the cargo area.
  • Wilson switch to the left of the steering wheel. This is the anti-theft fuel on/off device. Actually, it's the way to use a regular alternator. EDIC. Look it up.
Armor
  • I designed and mostly build the front winch bumper. Modeled it up in SolidWorks, had a metal shop do the 1/4" plate and a local Cruiser guy let me use his tube bender and welder. And made sure it went together well. Winch stays with me! There's a thread somewhere on that front bumper.
  • Rear double swing-out bumper. This was built by the last owner to carry a dirt bike on one side and the tire on the other. That thing is strong and has been great protection on the trail. There's photos of it with a dirt bike on it somewhere here on mud.
  • Interior roll cage. This is pretty great. Previous owner installed it. Bolts to the floor at 4 points with 4 bolts each. Nice padding, too. Great place to handles for the kids getting into the back seats.
  • No sliders. Bummer.
Body
  • Rusty.
  • Rockers are bad. Behind rear wheels are bad. Frame has rust on it. The rear of the frame is the worst. I have a pressure washer and like clean vehicles, so it gets washed as much as possible during the winter. And summer too for that matter.
  • Glass is pretty good.
  • Small crack in windshield that hasn't moved in years.
  • Rear tailgate and lift gate are not original. Last guy had them painted brown. Lift gate has a dent in the center that wasn't fixed prior to painting.
Suspension
  • The front has unknown springs on it.
  • Rancho shocks in the front.
  • New extended sway bar links
  • Interesting fact: I got it with super cool DUAL RANCHO SHOCKS on the front axle. I couldn't handle the coolness, so I removed/cut off the add-on shocks. Rides the same.
  • When I got it the rear spring pack had something like 9-11 leaves in it. Remember the dirt bike? In my planning for a future spring-over conversion I decided to start with spring under swap with Chevy 63" springs. Used the kit from Ruff Stuff and found some springs locally. Disassembled, cleaned, painted and made new/better anti friction pads from UHMW. Result was too low and squishy. A local spring shop added another leaf and arched them up about 2". Muuuuch better.
  • Rear extended bump stops have not been installed. I haven't wheeled with this setup, and I'd highly recommend getting bump stops in there. I have a pair that I intended to install, but needs more fab work than I have in my garage.
Other
  • 33x12.50 Goodyear MTRs on stock wheels. Tread is probably a little less than half.
  • Media player (no cd) mounted in center console with USB input for iphone listening
  • Aftermarket gauges: EGT, turbo oil pressure, boost, volts, fuel, engine temp (quit working out of the blue last month. Ticks me off, might replace it with a VDO)
  • Added A-pillar grab handles from an FZJ80. Fantastic addition.
  • Passenger dash grab bar is blue from an FJ62.
  • FJ Cruiser mirrors! Almost forgot. Huge improvement.
  • If you're still reading this you show dedication and would make a good owner for this rig.
Untitled by Crui$er Head

Untitled by Crui$er Head

Untitled by Crui$er Head

Untitled by Crui$er Head

Click on the photos should take you to the album of more photos.
 
I think thats a good price for all you have there, having a 85 Bj60 for the last 7 years as my daily driver, with its fair share of problems, (getting a engine rebuild due to recent rod knock @480k)
7k for all you have seem like a great price, rust and all. Im not buying but wish you the best, and fyi when you click on you photos it just asks me to log into Yahoo.

Nice truck!
 
Wow nice. Rusty yes but so much other goodness there. Surprised no ones snapped it up yet. GLWS
 
Almost want to buy and swap into my 87 that's rust free... that's just a project I'm not ready for.
 
6K that is a great price. Someone needs to buy this. Rust can be cut and fixed. Nothing on there can not be fixed.

If this was 1.3 years ago, I would be on the way to KC. in the East @6K this is a steal.

Good luck!
 
20k firm located in Colorado. It's my DD so miles are going up.
I hope you’ve tackled a lot of the rust and other little issues it’s had since you bought it or else I think $20k is a little steep no? But that’s just my opinion and by all means I’m not trying to say anything bad at all and nor do I mean any disrespect what’s so ever,I’m just saying the truck needed a lot of work and that rust is pretty bad on frame and body and hopefully it was taken cared of or else I’m sure it’s gotten worse since then? I’m curious to see how she looks now if you did do any work to it?
 
I hope you’ve tackled a lot of the rust and other little issues it’s had since you bought it or else I think $20k is a little steep no? But that’s just my opinion and by all means I’m not trying to say anything bad at all and nor do I mean any disrespect what’s so ever,I’m just saying the truck needed a lot of work and that rust is pretty bad on frame and body and hopefully it was taken cared of or else I’m sure it’s gotten worse since then? I’m curious to see how she looks now if you did do any work to it?
I haven't gotten into the rust yet, it's still on the list, I've been dealing with all the other deferred maintenance since I bought it.
First the right front caliper was seized and ground the inside of the rotor down paper thin before the master cylinder cut it's seal in the national forest. So it got new rotors calipers MC studs and pads. Then on the trip back both axle seals failed. So it got a marlin crawler front axle rebuild kit. And that's just the start. I'm not really interested in selling it, it's my DD right now but kind of a rolling project and probably not worth 20k in your eyes, the rust is pretty extensive on the frame
 

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