1983 FJ60 High Idle (1 Viewer)

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I bought a 1983 FJ60 a couple weeks ago and I've been having high idle issues. I'll preface this with I don't know anything about cars. I am trying to learn on this one.
I did some research on here about it a while ago and I found the Idle Control screw, and I've been having to turn it to the left every couple days because the idle just gradually increases to around 2k RPMs. I was under the impression the screw is just walking itself tighter, but again, I don't know anything about cars and that could be totally wrong.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for helping this noob.
 
A couple of thoughts:

1) is your accelerator cable free moving? Does it return to original position on the carb after accelerator is pressed?

2) Check your timing. If off it will idle higher.

3) is this smogged? Would be good to know for better advice.

4) Check your carb linkages and butterfly valves inside to make sure they are not getting stuck.

Engine pics and carb pics will help.
 
A couple of thoughts:

1) is your accelerator cable free moving? Does it return to original position on the carb after accelerator is pressed?

2) Check your timing. If off it will idle higher.

3) is this smogged? Would be good to know for better advice.

4) Check your carb linkages and butterfly valves inside to make sure they are not getting stuck.

Engine pics and carb pics will help.

1) RPM's decrease when I pull back on the gas pedal.... Not sure if that answers that question.

2) I will look into that. I am not sure how to check it but I have some knowledgeable guys here at my office who can help me out there.

3) I believe it is smogged. I can do some more research on that.

4) Are the butterfly valves on top of the air intake on top of the carb, or are they inside the carb itself?

Sorry for my ignorance. I know that doesn't make answering questions easy, but I appreciate your help!
 
1) RPM's decrease when I pull back on the gas pedal.... Not sure if that answers that question.

2) I will look into that. I am not sure how to check it but I have some knowledgeable guys here at my office who can help me out there.

3) I believe it is smogged. I can do some more research on that.

4) Are the butterfly valves on top of the air intake on top of the carb, or are they inside the carb itself?

Sorry for my ignorance. I know that doesn't make answering questions easy, but I appreciate your help!

Butterfly valves are inside the carb but visible. Remove air filter housing for visual access.

Smogged trucks have a lot of vacuum spaghetti. Hard to pin down issues in it. Start with the obvious non smog Stuff first.
 
Vacuum leaks due to hoses, intake/exhaust gasket, carb base gaskets or cracked carb insulator, or cracked manifolds as well as loose fittings are very common on these machines. A small vacuum leak will contribute to high idle and a bigger vacuum leak will contribute to stalling and hard starting.
 
Hi, Probably an easy fix, I’d start by checking the cable from pedal to carburetor .spray some wd40 on all moveable parts. Take off air filter top and spray 2 cans of carb cleaner in with someone working the gas pedal. Don’t put your face to close, wear eye protection. Have fire extinguisher handy, do outside. Mike
 
Hi, Probably an easy fix, I’d start by checking the cable from pedal to carburetor .spray some wd40 on all moveable parts. Take off air filter top and spray 2 cans of carb cleaner in with someone working the gas pedal. Don’t put your face to close, wear eye protection. Have fire extinguisher handy, do outside. Mike

If it’s the stock aisin carb then there is no cable but your point is still valid 😉. I had sticking gas pedal problems until I cleaned all the ball pivots in the throttle linkage assembly.
 
There are two springs associated with the carburetor linkage. The one circled in red is inside the cab attached to a lever that comes off the accelerator pedal. The one circled in purple is on the firewall side of the carburetor that attached from the bracket to the rotating linkage on the carburetor. Make sure you have both. Missing either one or both might keep the linkage from fully returning.

Also pictures of your set up might help.

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I bought a 1983 FJ60 a couple weeks ago and I've been having high idle issues. I'll preface this with I don't know anything about cars. I am trying to learn on this one.
I did some research on here about it a while ago and I found the Idle Control screw, and I've been having to turn it to the left every couple days because the idle just gradually increases to around 2k RPMs. I was under the impression the screw is just walking itself tighter, but again, I don't know anything about cars and that could be totally wrong.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for helping this noob.
Go buy a can of starter fluid or a propane bottle. By about 5 feet rubber vacuum hose that will fit over the end of the propane bottle. Buy some brake line probably about 6 to 8 inches and interred at the opposite end of the vacuum hose. Band The Last 3 in of 6 or nine inch of brake line down at a 45 degree angle. Use that to detect any kind of vacuum leaks around the base of the carburetor or at each intake runner. If your carburetor is running slightly rich and you have a vacuum leak the RPMs will run much higher when it's running at idle. You should never have to adjust your idle except for minor changes.
 
Go buy a can of starter fluid or a propane bottle. By about 5 feet rubber vacuum hose that will fit over the end of the propane bottle. Buy some brake line probably about 6 to 8 inches and interred at the opposite end of the vacuum hose. Band The Last 3 in of 6 or nine inch of brake line down at a 45 degree angle. Use that to detect any kind of vacuum leaks around the base of the carburetor or at each intake runner. If your carburetor is running slightly rich and you have a vacuum leak the RPMs will run much higher when it's running at idle. You should never have to adjust your idle except for minor changes.
Another source of vacuum leak could be your master brake vacuum assist. Put a radiator pliers over the line and see if the RPM drops. That might indicate you have a leak on the brake diaphragm
 
There are two springs associated with the carburetor linkage. The one circled in red is inside the cab attached to a lever that comes off the accelerator pedal. The one circled in purple is on the firewall side of the carburetor that attached from the bracket to the rotating linkage on the carburetor. Make sure you have both. Missing either one or both might keep the linkage from fully returning.

Also pictures of your set up might help.

View attachment 2492170
I attached some pictures below! I'll take a look at this today.
 
My truck had idle set around 1000 rpm when I got it. I’d later figure out that someone did this to bandaid or hide other issues. In my case it took a full manifold overhaul to fix things. Now I’m pretty good but probably would benefit from a carb overhaul.
 
My truck had idle set around 1000 rpm when I got it. I’d later figure out that someone did this to bandaid or hide other issues. In my case it took a full manifold overhaul to fix things. Now I’m pretty good but probably would benefit from a carb overhaul.

I plan on taking it to someone who's familiar with working on carbs. I don't trust myself as a novice to take care of that.
 

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