Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (5 Viewers)

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Just spent my morning reading through this build instead of working. Incredible work and thank you for the inspiration! I fell head first down the rabbit hole on my 78 and have been struggling to keep it going. Thank you for the motivation!
 
Another "against the grain" project. The original Toyota leaf springs are 1. In great shape. 2. Do no lean. 3. Have a great ride stock ride height. Essentially I love the look and feel - so for me, why buy Old Man Emu? I have purchased all new Toyota hardware, bushings, shackles, spring pins, shocks, etc..

I disassembled as best I could, the leaf packs, cleaned and degreased down to bare steel (admittedly, a pain), and liberally applied satin black 2k ceramic frame coating (left over from my frame job above).

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As you are rocking stock ride height as I wish to with the ‘76. Can you get me a measurement? Trying to determine what stock ride height was on the rear by measuring from the bottom of the rear fender to the middle of the rear tire(axle). I am running 31” tires. Thanks Tom
 
Would be happy to get the measurements for you. I’ll add that as I’m working on project I have a bare tub sitting on the frame. The ride height will reduce with hardtop, spare tire, interior, etc. not by much but it will settle down.

give me a bit, as I’m not able to measure at the moment but will provide shortly.
 
Would be happy to get the measurements for you. I’ll add that as I’m working on project I have a bare tub sitting on the frame. The ride height will reduce with hardtop, spare tire, interior, etc. not by much but it will settle down.

give me a bit, as I’m not able to measure at the moment but will provide shortly.
Many thanks sir, much appreciated! Tom
 
Any updates? Hope all is well!
 
Mini’s are British, sounds like something from Stuttgart👍
 
I thought maybe German car was code for something else :p

Glad to hear all is well and looking forward to your getting back on this project.

i've just been slogging in body work hell for several months...seems like no progress, but getting there and finally getting to paint.
 
I did notice today oil drips under the cruiser...it’s the front of the oil pan. Ugh....I thought I used enough FIPG, as it was a new pan and new gasket. Bummer....
I had the same thing happen to me and I've just not gone back in to fix it. It is a bummer after you've done all this work to put things back together and find out it still failed somewhere. I stuck a pan under the 40 for now and might get to it one of these days.
 
It is annoying for sure. I can see why every old oil pan is warped, it’s temping to just cinch down those 12mm even more.

What irritates me, I followed the instructions religiously, new pan, surfaces all sparkly clean, fipg as instructed, leaky pan.
If we’re to glob FIPG in there....it just seems unprofessional and compensating for slop in manufacturing.
 
Hello all! I have pulled the cruiser back out from under the cover and have resumed working on the body (slow but sure). I have straightened out the rockers and sealed from both sides so that any future warping will be minimized. When restorations say "all rust removed", I think twice about anymore. Having gone through several of these, removing all rust is nearly impossible with all of the metal on metal, support areas and so on. However, I can say with confidence this cruiser is rust free and sealed with multiple coats of epoxy to ensure a long life. In any areas of compromised steel, I welded in good steel and then used epoxy primer on both sides. On the rockers, I then used a high end filler to smooth them out and used feather fill, and a top layer primer sealer. I'll have more updated photos soon.

Bare metal was sealed with Eastwood's Epoxy Primer:

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Note here rockers have been pounded as smooth as possible using dolly's. It is complicated, as you know with the triangular supports and so forth behind there. However, four coats of epoxy on both sides (noting the bottom is already sealed and slathered with mustard).

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Using Evercoat "rage" products to fill and smooth rockers:

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Next, will be the welding seams which you can see along the top of the tub in the above photo. I love documenting this so that any future owner can see the phases and use of any filler, which I can show/document the little use of.

I also have finished the alternator and air pump mounting debacle and have everything 100% oem and aligned as it should be. I know that sounds easy, but I assure you with years of tweaking on mounting hardware and who knows what else parts I had, sourcing and aligning was not easy. I also have the correct blue and brown air nozzles on the thermostat housing.

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The alternator still needs to be cleaned up. It is an original "green tag". I need to re-plate the fan and paint the pulley on it. Mounting now just to ensure fitment:

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Although a tad dusty under there, I wanted to fill trans/t-case and differentials with gear oil to ensure no leaks and to coat the gears for protection:

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Here is what halted the crusier project! I finally have this 911L dialed in. You can follow if you'd like on instagram @miathe911.

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I had a lot of fun working on this car and dialing in the carbs. I also found a set of Avon CR6zz classic racing tires (dot approved even) which drastically increased the handling of the car.

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Hello all! I have pulled the cruiser back out from under the cover and have resumed working on the body (slow but sure). I have straightened out the rockers and sealed from both sides so that any future warping will be minimized. When restorations say "all rust removed", I think twice about anymore. Having gone through several of these, removing all rust is nearly impossible with all of the metal on metal, support areas and so on. However, I can say with confidence this cruiser is rust free and sealed with multiple coats of epoxy to ensure a long life. In any areas of compromised steel, I welded in good steel and then used epoxy primer on both sides. On the rockers, I then used a high end filler to smooth them out and used feather fill, and a top layer primer sealer. I'll have more updated photos soon.

Bare metal was sealed with Eastwood's Epoxy Primer:

View attachment 2692140

Note here rockers have been pounded as smooth as possible using dolly's. It is complicated, as you know with the triangular supports and so forth behind there. However, four coats of epoxy on both sides (noting the bottom is already sealed and slathered with mustard).

View attachment 2692139

Using Evercoat "rage" products to fill and smooth rockers:

View attachment 2692141

Next, will be the welding seams which you can see along the top of the tub in the above photo. I love documenting this so that any future owner can see the phases and use of any filler, which I can show/document the little use of.

I also have finished the alternator and air pump mounting debacle and have everything 100% oem and aligned as it should be. I know that sounds easy, but I assure you with years of tweaking on mounting hardware and who knows what else parts I had, sourcing and aligning was not easy. I also have the correct blue and brown air nozzles on the thermostat housing.

View attachment 2692145

The alternator still needs to be cleaned up. It is an original "green tag". I need to re-plate the fan and paint the pulley on it. Mounting now just to ensure fitment:

View attachment 2692146

Although a tad dusty under there, I wanted to fill trans/t-case and differentials with gear oil to ensure no leaks and to coat the gears for protection:

View attachment 2692147

Here is what halted the crusier project! I finally have this 911L dialed in. You can follow if you'd like on instagram @miathe911.

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I had a lot of fun working on this car and dialing in the carbs. I also found a set of Avon CR6zz classic racing tires (dot approved even) which drastically increased the handling of the car.

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Beautiful work. I have a ‘76 that will be going the same route with 532 Mustard Yellow. Do you anticipate single stage paint? Thanks for sharing👍
 

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