Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Restoration (1 Viewer)

jwall3000

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Rhode Island
@dmaddox , I was just going to PM you and ask if you have any pics of a correct accelerator linkage for a 78! Mine has a cable, like the throttle cable, with several zip ties and other nonsense. I assume this one from @ToyotaMatt is the OEM setup that's correct to a 1978? On the top pick, the right most part, I assume that is what goes through the firewall?
 

OPMACHINE

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Feb 18, 2019
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Jacksonville, FL / Thomasville Ga
I'm going to go out on a limb here.....and say that most (if not all) body panel providers operate within a pretty fat range of tolerances (some more than others), assuming that if people are skilled enough to hack out and weld in body panels, they can tweak the parts, too, if/as required.
I agree with this 100%.....I would have payed much more for a panel that was guaranteed to fit properly.
 

dmaddox

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Nov 7, 2003
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Long Island, NY
 
 
 
Guys, I need to take a break. I am so sick and tired of losing. Every single piece of this thing is cursed from top to bottom. It has been nothing but a money pit, with next to no results other than a spiffy rolling chassis.

Real steel quarter panels - as you can see - i did not cut them, I literally cleaned up the lines, and welded them in.

Note the perfect fit at the door seam:

F80EF178-AF46-431C-BC5C-F96B7EE92727.jpeg


Right? Ok. The front of the quarter is spot on, and I continued around the whole thing, measuring and welding in.

I am using the factory....yes, factory location for the spare tire carrier, as it did not change.

This morning I drilled in the factory location for the quarter - mind you, I measured six times - and I am pointing my finger at Real Steel here, as I did not cut or modify the spare tire mount location:

A229EBA6-3289-4178-A454-53339FD3E308.jpeg


Yay - a half inch short. Amazing. Not even close guys. Not even close. I have at least 200 hours into this tub, and this is where I am at.

Going to cover this all up and step away for awhile.

F4A81C9A-B07E-4E0C-ABA2-C4595B751113.jpeg


The level of stress and anxiety this project brings is just more than I can tolerate right now, with job, school (third round) and life.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
5,105
Location
Southern Colorado
 
 
 
Ouch. You have my sympathies. Your picture doesn't show the upper mount - how much can you cheat there? Hang in there - there's a way through this.

You also need to set the tub on the chassis immediately and see where/how the sill and bottom edge of the rear quarters line up with the body mounts.
 
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
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Prescott Valley, AZ
 
Can’t blame you for walking away from it for a bit. Time away will bring you back with a new perspective. I have cursed and even thrown tools 🛠 while drudging thru a PO’s idiotic mess. I think your work is amazing, it will get there. I keep telling people these things take time. Restoring an old domestic POS is a joke compared to what it takes to get these things right.
 
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
3,124
Location
The Netherlands, In the Market Garden area
 
 
Guys, I need to take a break. I am so sick and tired of losing. Every single piece of this thing is cursed from top to bottom. It has been nothing but a money pit, with next to no results other than a spiffy rolling chassis.

Real steel quarter panels - as you can see - i did not cut them, I literally cleaned up the lines, and welded them in.

Note the perfect fit at the door seam:

View attachment 2438150

Right? Ok. The front of the quarter is spot on, and I continued around the whole thing, measuring and welding in.

I am using the factory....yes, factory location for the spare tire carrier, as it did not change.

This morning I drilled in the factory location for the quarter - mind you, I measured six times - and I am pointing my finger at Real Steel here, as I did not cut or modify the spare tire mount location:

View attachment 2438165

Yay - a half inch short. Amazing. Not even close guys. Not even close. I have at least 200 hours into this tub, and this is where I am at.

Going to cover this all up and step away for awhile.

View attachment 2438148

The level of stress and anxiety this project brings is just more than I can tolerate right now, with job, school (third round) and life.
I had the same problem with my ‘78. When I got it they had used 79+ fenders on it and glued them on.
When I tried to test fit the spare mount it looked just like yours. This is why I then decided to take it all apart and make my own fenders.
Stil you are doing a good job, take a break and get back on it when you are ready.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
5,105
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Southern Colorado
 
 
 
You're going to nearly kill me for suggesting this, but you may have to section the tire carrier to bring the lower hinge up higher. It could be done carefully and well hidden (I think). But, only as a last resort.
 

MOTOV8R

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May 19, 2009
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Boise, ID
 
 
My Awl_TEQ made sill for my 79 was pretty close to my south American made quarter panels. By the end of the horn it was off by about 3/16ths. For my build (clearly not a 40-60k rig). I left it gapped and spot welded up to where the gap began last couple inches.

For my quarters and tire carrier it fit pretty well. My fenders have the opposite problem though they are about 3/8s too low. Again I just said F it and left it (the benefit of only being OCD about structural integrity and realizing I don't have the patience for perfection).

For your build, I'd suggest cutting right at the lower lip and add in the 1/2" material back to the wheel opening. Frustrating and a time sync but doable.
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
3,785
Location
Denver CO
 
 
 
I was going to suggest @Awl_TEQ for his rear sill as well

On your quarters, it also seemed to me that the back corner was up too high. Isn’t there supposed to be a little dip where the corner reflector is mounted? I’ll see if I can find a pic.

Edit: maybe here...
 
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dmaddox

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Nov 7, 2003
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2,400
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Long Island, NY
 
 
 
Thanks for the support and ideas guys.

I think today was just a burn out day. I think I can figure out a way to make this work and plop it in the frame to test the fit.

more to follow. Much love to this community, for allowing me to vent, and immediately you guys come back with suggestions and support.

Ill do my best.
 

airon23

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Jan 5, 2004
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1,611
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Reno NV
 
 
 
@dmaddox I've been following your work, so when this last thing came up I was pretty bummed for you. But I went back and re-looked at all the great progress you've done so far and man it is very nice. Give yourself a small break, it's ok. Sometimes it's best to walk away from a problem to gather your thoughts and reassess. I think that is what you are doing. Good for you.

Sounds like you have some ideas in mind, but here's another, why not cut the bottom corners off the old quarters and weld them to the new stuff? If they were somewhat straight you should be good to reuse.

Just a thought, but whatever you do, don't give up. Everything is looking super good keep it up.
 

dmaddox

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Long Island, NY
 
 
 
This has been irritating me enough to try to figure it out. I know my work is not awesome, and I am sure a few of you are cringing at the welds as well as my make-shift body cart.

Using various measurements I found here on mud, I thought I can make it work.

First, I decided to just finish welding up everything on the rear sill and the support beam. As mentioned above, I had to cut and re-form the sill on both ends:

4562F060-FE5D-4A7C-A7D4-353A10053200.jpeg


Once I finished welding those up (and again, using measurements found on mud as well as a good friend who took some measurements for me on his '78), I installed the rear sill.

I welded shut the previous holes on both sides solid:

BFE4C0E2-58D0-4DA9-A7F3-D1AD6FEFD8D2.jpeg


Setting the rear sill in place with a few spot welds:

979997E8-0C69-4CEF-B78B-136333389198.jpeg


I hosed weld-thru primer on all contact areas:

19560A6B-8FA3-4379-9F49-2360A8D3A24F.jpeg


I then cut the rear sill cover to fit, ensuring all bolt holes lined up for the spare tire carrier. I drilled 1/4" holes all the away across the rear to support the channel:

7E896350-7473-4B32-BFDF-AD744D9F9188.jpeg
 

dmaddox

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I also (before I forget) just wanted to say thank you for the ideas, support such. May sound cheesy, but in a way I felt like we were all standing in my driveway talking this through.

Here is the image I stole from the forums and used (along with images @SteveH sent - huge thank you):

B6351E68-6916-441F-B2F9-89A49F8AD999.jpeg


I cut and added about 1/8" to the bottom and supported the sill. This will give me the material needed to hopefully install the tire carrier.

CAAA6B7A-6ED5-4B85-AD8C-DC52266BE489.jpeg


Clamping and spot welding through the 1/4" pilot holes to secure the cover/support the rear sill:

2731DBF1-22B6-441C-B88E-63C4EEBE9615.jpeg


Smoothing out the extra support material:

3DE7A2C5-1085-4DD5-8ABD-0F1D1677C590.jpeg


Rear sill pretty much wrapped up:

96052D86-8FDE-473D-BEDA-AC939575A4FE.jpeg
 

dmaddox

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Long Island, NY
 
 
 
Measuring across the sill, trying to keep things square, I finished the rear sill, and took the advice and installed the fuel filler mount, tapping the roll so that it looks stock:

E8FBA28E-9CC6-42B1-BB13-A6A08BD7D2BE.jpeg


Ugh, that rocker needs love.

Soliciting the help of my wife, we mounted the spare tire carrier hardware, and with me holding it up in place, she marked it with a sharpie.

I measured again and again, used a punch and amazingly we got it to fit.

DC3F35DF-7B2F-4ACD-A168-43ADDBA0B6C6.jpeg


From the rear:

9F5BF915-6E89-439A-9ABD-BC3C4F633F1B.jpeg


Another couple of shots mounted:

66A26E6F-6D1D-45E9-9492-1332B53DE425.jpeg


03AC7CEB-3DE7-49F2-87F1-536AAFC699FB.jpeg
 

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