Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Now, for the hi/low selector shaft and fork.

More cleaning and polishing, then a new rubber o-ring goes on:

17EFB81D-4478-4E73-9E1A-F6A8F53638DB.jpeg


97A0E8E1-74C6-4427-84C3-98B8550B4DDA.jpeg


Another spring and bearing go inside this, along with a cotter pin:

0E52C183-D903-4D42-9C78-D6F74C1F3AF8.jpeg


Front drive selector clutch:

F585981E-C79E-4AF8-92D4-4A411F6DAC3D.jpeg


Preparing for the front drive cone. IMPORTANT STEP - make sure you install the new bearing race into the back of the cone, that will ride against the exposed bearing you see here. Another FSM catch!

8B724B1D-4ABF-4690-93B2-ECF34DA07CC7.jpeg
 
Red (pink) FIPG, new gasket, setting in place:

EED5F724-3DC6-43E0-BC6F-586BDF19227A.jpeg


Blue thread locker, along with some new hardware:

5FFF0D66-8A6B-49AA-BDB1-CB2B2268F87F.jpeg


Front drive assembly installed:

B967D633-7AAA-4972-A656-C3254BC3A72C.jpeg


Back to the SST curtain rod to re-torque front pinion nut. (I set to 120ft/lbs.):

60F6809E-7F54-4D15-B82C-D8DFB11E16E6.jpeg


Now, while the left over frame paint is drying on the speedometer housing, I'll clean up the inside and prepare. New orings:

E57A2ED5-86D6-46F9-8876-BB2A6E9BFA51.jpeg
 
Housing dry, with the new seal set in place:

39549BE7-D512-4511-9934-C593216D7B3A.jpeg


New felt for the speedometer end, and gasket:

4A1D6F06-8939-4616-9371-5C0498FFAFBB.jpeg


Here is where I will add another point of frustration - as I am sure you have experienced, if you built one of these.

There is a step to "seat the rear bearing race". Well, at this point it is too late. With the speedometer housing installed with the same shims as before, you'll not be able to barely turn the gears, it will be so tight.

I had to install an old pinion nut onto the back of the output shaft and beat on it with a rubber mallet until it spun freely. Any tips or ideas someone may have to help others on this whole output shaft spacing/etc.. would be appreciated.

Once that was done. Sigh of relief.

4F273C78-3E6A-43E5-A51C-8FC504DD2FA7.jpeg


Turned out pretty snappy, I thought anyway.

A74D5E50-CCE7-45BB-BCA7-4635D94023FE.jpeg


Oh, check this out. Over the last year, I have been watching ebay and the classifieds on 'mud to complete the 1978 manuals.

I think I have them all now, after finding the wiring diagram guides. I am a nerd for this kind of stuff. However, it IS pretty cool to have them on-hand.

5D1316E1-5508-454C-9207-A0CCD89E537B.jpeg
 
Again, while the rear e-brake backing plate and drum (I shot these with a gloss black, to help with cleanup) are drying, I decided to dive into rebuilding the bits:

Ugh, rusty and gross! Before and after:

540F4702-6343-4ED0-832F-0ED544F7A0AA.jpeg


389DB713-F0BB-46AC-BFEB-EA432BCB1783.jpeg


Assembling the "Terrain Tamer". E-Brake shoes. Not sure how an e-brake tames the terrain, but ok.

52E9062E-9EA2-4193-8726-03FD6F9284E8.jpeg


FSM shows this - which is a fairly straight-forward install:

0960872B-B052-4AA5-9E5B-722C1C94761A.jpeg


08B2B0F9-6F05-484C-A493-F1F304AE208B.jpeg
 
More SST Curtain Rod, and the rear nut to 120ft/lbs. Then, my pull-scale (which by the way, Kurt @cruiseroutfit sent me a pink one?) to measure the resistance of the e-brake per the FSM.

E56330F6-458E-4235-B99D-E482256EDB19.jpeg


Top cover gasket for the hi/low lever:

F5FBF200-3FB7-4341-933A-8DBACC93D238.jpeg


Complete, just need the shift linkage and will be ready to install on the back of the transmission.

Thank you for reading along.

B353DCEB-9249-4886-A23D-73D2A8621CC2.jpeg


F958C318-9B57-42B4-B52F-BF61B8694A39.jpeg


DD9FF085-8F40-45EB-AFE9-9D434BC31309.jpeg


Kicking my feet up. Have a great weekend mudders.
 
wow!! Awesome! I know what I’m gonna be using when I get to my transfer case (once done with my transmission). Great info.

That two part spray stuff is cool. I had bad luck with the Eastwood 2k paint, but when I used the spray can two part version, it was awesome. I’ll probably copy you here.

And I laughed at the pink scale haha
 
Housing dry, with the new seal set in place:

View attachment 2405633

New felt for the speedometer end, and gasket:

View attachment 2405634

Here is where I will add another point of frustration - as I am sure you have experienced, if you built one of these.

There is a step to "seat the rear bearing race". Well, at this point it is too late. With the speedometer housing installed with the same shims as before, you'll not be able to barely turn the gears, it will be so tight.

I had to install an old pinion nut onto the back of the output shaft and beat on it with a rubber mallet until it spun freely. Any tips or ideas someone may have to help others on this whole output shaft spacing/etc.. would be appreciated.

Once that was done. Sigh of relief.

View attachment 2405635

Turned out pretty snappy, I thought anyway.

View attachment 2405636

Oh, check this out. Over the last year, I have been watching ebay and the classifieds on 'mud to complete the 1978 manuals.

I think I have them all now, after finding the wiring diagram guides. I am a nerd for this kind of stuff. However, it IS pretty cool to have them on-hand.

View attachment 2405637


Great TECH all above Dallas !

the 2 part is amazing :)

i only noticed 1 minor ..........well you know " thing "

you are missing this .......

it's a must have for your current build state thus far

otherwise your 1978 Print Media Library is MOST impressive ! :popcorn:




FCDB5533-AC55-4172-AD45-C56759256585.jpeg
6618F4E0-92ED-4E2F-BEC9-ED22D8D6A2EA.jpeg
3CEC1724-4C48-4F91-A449-03F7380057CB.jpeg
 
Bushing / spacer question.

I still have everything apart, nothing staked it n place yet and I have two spacers. Yeah....a "parts left over" situation.

AA23CF09-A1F4-47DC-A027-8B8B0EE69D56.jpeg


The spacer and washer on the right - I believe (98% certain) go on the back of the t-case under that cone. The bushing/spacer on the left? Does it go in the back of the transmission? That's the only place I can see it might go?

The FSM is not clear. Thoughts?
 
...and this appears to be the spacer. I guess I just need to use the search function and dig a little more.


Apologies! In my defense, you know the feeling of installing a transmission, and then you see an extra part sitting there.
 
I have (finally) finished the transfer and trans install. Aside from a few items I painted (breather/vent and the long bolts that secure the transfer case to the trans) gold - yes, that's right, I have used all new cad hardware and cleaned things up best I could. I don't have a shop near me that plates stuff, although I am sure there's one around.

Here you can see I used nicopp brake line as well, bending by hand:

E75CDCF3-2F00-4BDA-885F-24FD2C39BC56.jpeg


85DC6BBF-FDE6-4F44-A618-D8E55C45EFF3.jpeg


D4AD02E2-5A72-4A50-B4C0-315E7965F568.jpeg


5F5BD858-0DB0-4D09-A60E-F86CCC973E35.jpeg


D3EC6472-4FDE-4E8C-8DA9-C660336FD082.jpeg
 
Onto the front axle / knuckles. I didn't take many photos of the disassembly, pretty common stuff. However, when taking stuff apart, it looks like someone was in there in the last 5K miles or so, but decided to reuse worn bearings and seals.

Overall, with a little polishing, the axle in general and the knuckles are in good shape.

DB1B99B6-CA7B-41F8-96A6-AF98CC72318C.jpeg


I used to have the luxury of a fully outfitted 60x100 family shop. Now, trying to do a top notch restoration is a 1 car garage that is falling apart (literally).

FC954697-FFBD-4593-B845-EE6B7B85FDD5.jpeg


C3F58B73-55FF-4AB6-95D8-ACD26B46BE87.jpeg


More disassembly and cleaning.

CB695F77-D90D-4037-A6E0-CF8C0C38F992.jpeg


F36F5A55-7AA3-4A29-860D-C34EA85E0950.jpeg


The backing plates were mashed in several areas and because I am working alone with limited tools, the axle at one point, slid off the hand-cart and onto the ground. So, I am working here on straightening them.
 
As mentioned, trying to lift and haul (soliciting your sympathy here, guys - ha!) an axle by myself, pic just before i lost control and bent a dust shield (now repaired):

FA59901B-B6A2-4A4B-814A-84CF8EFD9AD9.jpeg


Not sure I discussed (sorry if I have) that if I can find it from Toyota, I'll use it. Most shocks, brake lines, etc.. are!

B0F0944A-EED5-4C5B-A959-11B85E78913B.jpeg


Ready for a cleaning:

7E57C371-85BE-4E5F-9987-23885910E43E.jpeg


Rear seal/dust rings and trunnion races installed:

3E3C2CB5-6808-4240-AE8E-F30ECAA1ED14.jpeg


What I am using to make brake lines:

9287918C-99CC-43E3-AA42-6039540766FC.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom