Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Reset

[dmaddox]

After saving for a couple of years for as close to a 12/77 Mustard cruiser I could find, I found one right here on mud for sale and the timing was right.

I'm sorry to say the purchase experience was horrible, and I overpaid by about 9 grand, but I vented about it and kicked off the project.

My goal has always been to do a correct and totally stock restoration, purist style all the way down to the paperwork in the glove box.

First, I started a purist thread just to figure out what on earth cobbled mess of cruiser parts I just paid 20 grand for.

So, after venting and squawking about it and learning from my mistakes, here we go!

Basic drivability, I need to fix the upside down/backwards e-brake and disconnected cable. Someone in the recent months went through the trouble of installing a brand new brake cable.

You can see in the for-sale photos the handle is pointed in the wrong direction. The wires for the e-brake light/buzzer? were hanging down and the barrel connector was disconnected as well.

Upon reconnecting it and adjusting per the FSM (7-12 clicks on the handle and counterclockwise on the 10mm nut at the drum until it bottoms out and then back off a click). The e-brake is functional.

Is the above correct? Albeit missing the spring.

FSM instructions I used:

More to follow.

 

[dmaddox]

Is this hole (looks factory), stock on a Jan/78 cruiser?

I assume an ignition release. As sloppy as this clam shell feels I can’t help but think it’s wrong?

Thoughts?

 

[Pierps]

I posted this in your other thread... But my unsolicited advice- don't touch a thing until you talk to an attorney about your options.

 

[thebigredrocker]

This is a 76 clamshell. Looks like it has some sort of plug. Never tried to remove it though

 

[pigmony]

My '78 has what appears to be a plug. Just like the photo thebigredrocker posted.

 

[dmaddox]

Is/does the ignition cylinder protrude 1/8" like that normally? Seems to me it should be more flush. I may be mistaken.

Also, what is /goes into that hole just next to the e-brake cable behind my accelerator pedal shaft - you can see in the photos above?

Thank you.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Your e-brake handle return spring is missing. Note the welded firewall bracket.

For the hole behind accel pedal shaft. I believe there’s an emissions switch that resided there. I probably have one in a box if you want/need to hook up the emissions gear. 65swb45 told me it’s a “brake switch for emissions” Here’s a thread to look at.
Electrical Connector Near Parking Brake

 

[tls3601]

I have a 10/78 manu date, will check the steering column later

 

[dmaddox]

Your e-brake handle return spring is missing. Note the welded firewall bracket.

For the hole behind accel pedal shaft. I believe there’s an emissions switch that resided there. I probably have one in a box if you want/need to hook up the emissions gear. 65swb45 told me it’s a “brake switch for emissions” Here’s a thread to look at.
Electrical Connector Near Parking Brake

Thank you! Yes, I’ll need to purchase it from you, and a return spring if you have one extra. I’m also hunting for the return spring for my spare tire carrier lock handle.

 

[Living in the Past]

The clam shell cover is molded like that. Some market got a locking steering column. On those it was drilled out and button that was need to be pushed to turn the key off and remove.

 

[Catfish28]

My 78 clam shell has a plastic plug in that hole. Flush with the shell.

 

[dmaddox]

I really can't figure this one out....The ends of the rear frame channel where the tail lights install into are hacked off - about 8" off each side....and then have cobble welded ends put back on?

Also...took the floor mat out and saw tar tape covering what appears to be a grinder gone wild or a botched attempt at cutting out rust?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Giant hole?

Put a bolt in it... done..

 

[dmaddox]

Not just a bolt hole, its a bit of an illusion - that squarish hole behind it with cut-off wheel grooves is also a hole.

 

[dmaddox]

I need help with a measurement. Since the rear cross member was hacked about 2/3'rds of the way through the tail-light hole, I am looking for the end to end measurement of the rear cross member, as exact as it can be.

I'm also working on sourcing the chunks of cross member I am missing. I have a lead - but finding a frame someone has scrapped is not easy.

This is the measurement I need:

 

[Kleatus]

I need help with a measurement. Since the rear cross member was hacked about 2/3'rds of the way through the tail-light hole, I am looking for the end to end measurement of the rear cross member, as exact as it can be.

I'm also working on sourcing the chunks of cross member I am missing. I have a lead - but finding a frame someone has scrapped is not easy.

This is the measurement I need:

View attachment 1782497

A photo of my '76 build from a series of pics I sent over to @Awl_TEQ who makes very nice replacement pieces. You would be well served to talk to him about getting a new one.

 

[hooter]

@Awl_TEQ sells (or did sell) compete rear cross members.
Just a thought.


hOOter

edit, @Kleatus beat me to it

 

[dmaddox]

They are all factory riveted together though....not quite sure how to restore the cross member and keep oem rivets.

And a huge thank you for the measurements!

 

[tstepp920]

I need help with a measurement. Since the rear cross member was hacked about 2/3'rds of the way through the tail-light hole, I am looking for the end to end measurement of the rear cross member, as exact as it can be.

I'm also working on sourcing the chunks of cross member I am missing. I have a lead - but finding a frame someone has scrapped is not easy.

This is the measurement I need:

View attachment 1782497

I see you got your measurement. I want to see more of the FJ40 in the photo. Or a link

 

[Kleatus]

They are all factory riveted together though....not quite sure how to restore the cross member and keep oem rivets.

And a huge thank you for the measurements!

I'm using button head M10 bolts. You can see a couple of them here. They look close to OEM, and you could fill in the allen heads with epoxy prior to paint if you wanted.