Considering buying this 1978 40-series for $11,000, but I'm concerned specifically about the rust. Anyone think it's beyond salvageable if my intent is to fully restore the truck?
1978 FJ40 Rust Review
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corcel
SILVER Star
This looks great haha
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- #4
Haha are you both being sarcastic or what?
Just some light surface rust there...I'd have loved to start from that. 🙃
Look under the floor mat if there is one. Look under the fuel tank. Look at the rear sil.
The photos of the truck in question don't show much rust, compared to mine, but, who knows.
The photos of the truck in question don't show much rust, compared to mine, but, who knows.
you post 3 pics, generally just of the frame
the frame is solid, all that is on the frame is surface rust, if worried about the frame, take a ball peen hammer and hit the frame, it will be solid.
there is rust in the rear sill as you can see daylight thru it, but the pics are showing the frame not the body.
my WAG is this rig rides very rough looking at the rear shackle angles
If that frightens you, old vehicles aren’t for you. That’s really solid, i wouldn’t even restore it, just clean it up and service it and enjoy. Restoring kills all the time you can enjoy the truck and learn what it really does/doesn’t need.
What’s the rest of the truck like?
What’s the rest of the truck like?
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Is it a diesel or small block swapped or? Curious why the passenger side exhaust. As said, rust doesn’t look bad from 3 pictures of where I wouldn’t be worried about rust. Things like completeness, drivetrain, body are where I’d be looking to determine a value and if worth restoring.
So far soooo good. More pics, please
Knuckles have grease. That's a plus
The rust all looks to be surface? If you're not looking for a restoration, I'd hose that thing down nose to tail with a rust inhibitor and run with it.
We demand more pictures though. 😆
Unless you have 4-5 months of winter every year. Then your options are:
-Alcoholism
-Ripping apart an old Toyota.
Both are expensive, both will ruin your marriage, only one lets you drive a cool car in the spring. 😋 And just parking it sucks.
The rust all looks to be surface? If you're not looking for a restoration, I'd hose that thing down nose to tail with a rust inhibitor and run with it.
We demand more pictures though. 😆
Unless you have 4-5 months of winter every year. Then your options are:
-Alcoholism
-Ripping apart an old Toyota.
Both are expensive, both will ruin your marriage, only one lets you drive a cool car in the spring. 😋 And just parking it sucks.
- Thread starter
- #12
Here's a few more photos, ladies. Took a test drive today and my only comparison is my stock 80 series but it ran smoothly.
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- #13
More
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- #14
Better not!
I see the angle brace for the rear frame member of the left. Exhaust is on the left side and exits on the left because a spare tank was added.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Ya I saw the left side exit but right side down pipe. This was before the pics and info showing it’s sbc swapped, which makes more sense.
EStein
SILVER Star
Maybe I’m out of touch with recent prices but I’d say it’s priced too high since it’s got the V8 and pretty extensive body rust. Mine looked very similar rust wise. Bones were ok but as I dug into it, ended up having to replace most the metal rearward of the dash. It’s worked out but I’d never do it again. Getting to old. If you can weld (or want to learn) it can be really rewarding. Be ready to shell out the cash though.
Yeah, I'd also say it's priced a bit high. Frame does look good but, the rear of the tub is shot. $27k on a bunch of work in 05 and then left it in the rain with the hood off? If you can do the work yourself, you could make it nice and not have an additional $60k into it. Or, duct tape the holes and drive it.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I’ve bought lots of projects where people like to tell me how much they have into it, etc. That’s all kind of irrelevant when you have to redo it.
My thoughts: $11k is cheap today if it runs and drives and is reasonably complete. But I don’t necessarily think that this one is worth it. From those pics it looks like there’s actually lots of rust. Not that everything needs to be fixed but if you did fix it, you’re looking at a minimum both quarters, rear sill, part of rear floor, part of wheel wells, drivers side hardtop side. Then, how well was the sbc swap done?
Really all depends what you want out of a cruiser and how much work you’re A) willing to do and B) able to do.
Why can you see out from the inside of drivers quarter corner but can’t see in from the outside?
My thoughts: $11k is cheap today if it runs and drives and is reasonably complete. But I don’t necessarily think that this one is worth it. From those pics it looks like there’s actually lots of rust. Not that everything needs to be fixed but if you did fix it, you’re looking at a minimum both quarters, rear sill, part of rear floor, part of wheel wells, drivers side hardtop side. Then, how well was the sbc swap done?
Really all depends what you want out of a cruiser and how much work you’re A) willing to do and B) able to do.
Why can you see out from the inside of drivers quarter corner but can’t see in from the outside?
1978 was in the years when recycled steel was a big thing and also thinner because of gas lines. The surface you see is real cancer. Frame is thicker and other steel foundations , but , body will haunt you. That said, if 11 k is ok for you to begin from here , than all is well. I bought my 1969 for so much less years ago, I would only buy one like this if I had no concerns of future value.
