Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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most important is to get the truck running and driving and go out and use it instead of changing the build five times and sitting on jack stands forever.
 
most important is to get the truck running and driving and go out and use it instead of changing the build five times and sitting on jack stands forever.

I agree. It is a lot of work to change the drivetrain after everything has been made, though. A lot more money too.
 
Excellent point. Use it!! We always tend to overbuilt. My present build is all Toyota DNA WITH SOA FRONT AND 4 link rear with arb lockers f/r and crawl ratio 80:1 and to honest it has never failed me, 2f with longs in front axle. I do need to make a decision on an engine upgrade. Suggestions?? 5.3 vortec??
 
Excellent point. Use it!! We always tend to overbuilt. My present build is all Toyota DNA WITH SOA FRONT AND 4 link rear with arb lockers f/r and crawl ratio 80:1 and to honest it has never failed me, 2f with longs in front axle. I do need to make a decision on an engine upgrade. Suggestions?? 5.3 vortec??

5.3, 5.7, or diesel. I'm going with a 383 in this build, so it should have about 450ftlbs of torque to pull me around.
 
You will tons of power! Are you concerned about your fj80 axles?

Yes and no. I'm not super liberal with the skinny pedal, so I'm not too worried about breaking stuff if I am careful. That is a big reason I want a good crawl ratio, so I can just let the truck idle around and find its own traction. I am concerned that if I do spin tires a lot I'm going to need to go to chromo shafts.
 
I would love to the conversation myself but I have no experience.

Really though, this is my first build. I've done a lot of metalwork and welding before, but never really any of the bodywork. My dad helps out there and I have a few good contacts that help me out with information. You have to start somewhere, and these are really easy to work on.
 
I repurposed the old PO hole in my dash for my battery kill key. It was already there, and I needed a hole for it, so it worked out well.

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I got the rear cage crossbar in.

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And got the seat mounts finished.

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I got the cage crossbar painted, along with a bunch of small other parts that are black, but not really any pictures. I then moved onto the important task for today: painting the dash and a bunch of other parts. It was barely warm enough, but I'm taking all the good weather I can get.

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The Nardo Gray is really chameleon like. It is a light gray in sun, and can look almost dark blue in the shade. I really like it.

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Decided to pull the trigger on a engine. I’m looking for a 5.3 -really hard to find. I did find a nice 4.8 vortec- not sure about that... opinions??
 
Decided to pull the trigger on a engine. I’m looking for a 5.3 -really hard to find. I did find a nice 4.8 vortec- not sure about that... opinions??

I'd go to a junkyard and pull. It will be a lot cheaper but will take some work. If you can find a low mileage crash it would be good. You will pay a premium for a 5.3
 
I've been doing a ton of stuff, just been really bad about documenting it.

I just got my hinges back from powdercoat, and they look great. Can't wait to put them back on.

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New winch line showed up too, so that will be going on at some point. Hubs have also arived from down under, but I'm still waiting for the chance to order the Hellfire Knuckles.

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I may have a doubler in the near future, but that is still a maybe.
 
Looks great. You have inspired me to powder coat some stuff. This what I got done this weekend. I will por 15 the frame in the next week. Engine is getting pulled. I will same it for another original 40 reso someday. Too bad I can’t get hell fire for my 40 axles.

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Looks great. You have inspired me to powder coat some stuff. This what I got done this weekend. I will por 15 the frame in the next week. Engine is getting pulled. I will same it for another original 40 reso someday. Too bad I can’t get hell fire for my 40 axles.

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Are you running links or radius arms on the rear?
 
How hard was it to get the pins out of the hinges? Mine are at the blaster right now and I’m debating on pressing the pins out to eliminate rust bleed once they’re painted beige.

I didn't bother pulling them.
 

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