1978 FJ-40 Electrical issues. (1 Viewer)

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The black box sitting on top of the coil is your igniter. That's a pretty spendy part. It's part of the original ignition system. It looks like you have the correct distributor but I'm not seeing any vacuum lines hooked up to it (and then to the carb). I'm only adding this because you were uncertain about Geweke's work.

Even though you don't have a lot of cash you might still think about taking the car to a Cruiser-specific mechanic for diagnosis/advice.

I don't suppose you would know how I was able to run the vehicle for 3 years near flawlessly without that little black box? they bolted it to a thin piece of sheet steel and bent it to fit over the coil. Previously I did not have that box and I did not have these problems. And it should be the right distributor, it too them 5 months to find and install it! Is there any way I can test the distributor they removed? It was a high-performance magnetic distributor that worked great and I would the points wouldn't go bad... I still have it. All I got this summer around work is time. I would love to spend these next couple months before I return to the adventures of college making my FJ purr like a kitten, albeit a very large kitten.

Do you (or anyone) happen to know of a good Cruiser guy in the 209/916 area?
 
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An update

So yesterday and today I was able to get the car started by jumping it. However, at these times the it was obvious that it wasnt getting enough juice, most times it will make a singular click, or do nothing at all. When it does either of those the everything still works, just slightly slower/dimmer which makes me think that the batter is ok, but now I am suspecting something in the charging system. I drove until the amp meter almost completely returned to normal so hopefully it starts up tomorrow. I have to admit that I enjoy the sound of a dead battery a lot better than "dead starter"

Thanks for all the help!
More updates as they occur, Stay tuned...
 
Smiddy,
Forget about the ignitor and the distributor. The dealer installed the stock parts. They have nothing to do with the engine not cranking.

OK, you got the vehicle to start by jumping it. Tell us how that went. Did it crank freely and start right up?
After you got it running, where did you go? I would have gone directly to Napa, Sears, NTB.

What does this sentence mean? Are you describing before, after, during the jump start?
What is the "everything" that still works?

"However, at these times the it was obvious that it wasnt getting enough juice, most times it will make a singular click, or do nothing at all. When it does either of those the everything still works, just slightly slower/dimmer which makes me think that the batter is ok, but now I am suspecting something in the charging system.?

When debugging electrical issues you need to be focused, methodical, and logical.
When you jump started your car, that was a test. If it cranked right away, that told you something-it's not the starter. Now you have to eliminate other possibilities.
Let's start with the battery. If you have a meter there are some tests that you can do but the simplest, fastest, and most complete way is to take the battery to someone and have them test it.
 
Smiddy,
Forget about the ignitor and the distributor. The dealer installed the stock parts. They have nothing to do with the engine not cranking.

OK, you got the vehicle to start by jumping it. Tell us how that went. Did it crank freely and start right up?
After you got it running, where did you go? I would have gone directly to Napa, Sears, NTB.

What does this sentence mean? Are you describing before, after, during the jump start?
What is the "everything" that still works?

"However, at these times the it was obvious that it wasnt getting enough juice, most times it will make a singular click, or do nothing at all. When it does either of those the everything still works, just slightly slower/dimmer which makes me think that the batter is ok, but now I am suspecting something in the charging system.?

When debugging electrical issues you need to be focused, methodical, and logical.
When you jump started your car, that was a test. If it cranked right away, that told you something-it's not the starter. Now you have to eliminate other possibilities.
Let's start with the battery. If you have a meter there are some tests that you can do but the simplest, fastest, and most complete way is to take the battery to someone and have them test it.


Sorry for not being specific enough, it was pretty late when I posted, and I jumped it around 11pm so Napa wasn't an option. Tomorrow Im hoping I can get it there before work. I just drove around town to try and charge the battery.


By everything I mean, the lights work, wipers, and horn, but they are obviously not running at full capacity, but they are stronger than when I have had a dead battery in the past. This battery is a few years old now, I should have realized that a bit sooner.

Yes, when I hooked it up to another car it fired up in a minute or so. I have been assuming the battery is in good condition because of the little "eye" on it that is supposed to be an indicator of its health. Kick starting also works fine.

I first jumped to conclusion that it was faulty parts because of the opinions of everyone I have talked to, originally it was a 50-50 split between solenoid and starter.

Thanks for the help! Im gonna jump it again now and pay attention to every detail as it occurs. Also gonna test the battery and see what that tells me.

I'll post again when I have news.

I like it better when there is an obvious broken piece that I can take off and replace, I have never had to do such a scavenger hunt before.
 
I don't suppose you would know how I was able to run the vehicle for 3 years near flawlessly without that little black box? they bolted it to a thin piece of sheet steel and bent it to fit over the coil. Previously I did not have that box and I did not have these problems. And it should be the right distributor, it too them 5 months to find and install it! Is there any way I can test the distributor they removed? It was a high-performance magnetic distributor that worked great and I would the points wouldn't go bad... I still have it. All I got this summer around work is time. I would love to spend these next couple months before I return to the adventures of college making my FJ purr like a kitten, albeit a very large kitten.

I agree with edwjmcgrath - don't worry about the distibutor/coil at the current time. Your issues are elsewhere.

Those little glowing windows on batteries are notoriously unreliable. As everyone has said your issues are battery/starter/alternator related. Follow their advice.

That said the sheet metal piece the dealer made duplicated a factory bracket. I don't think they're available any more but you can probably get a used one in the classifieds here.
 
GOOD NEWS

I kind of hate to admit it because it was such a simple thing. Today I took the battery in to get tested. After being hooked up for less than 10 seconds it read 2.1 then said "BAD BATTERY" on the tester. I replaced the battery and both cables and my FJ fired right up. I got the battery with a lens in it because it was recommended to me by someone who has never guided me wrong, my uncle who gave me the FJ. He has owned 2, my '78 and an '83 and he managed to keep both in great running condition and teach me everything I have needed up to this point for my FJ. I guess I should inform him of the faulty "eye" if he hasn't already figured it out.
I want to thank everyone for being patient and understanding while guiding me through this issue. Next up: slight, occasional sputter =)

Smiddy
 

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