1977 FJ40 brake rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Apr 12, 2019
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Los Alamos New Mexico
Hey guys. I have a 1977 FJ40 in pretty good shape. But it has been sitting since 2008. Engine is a Chevy 305. Won’t start. Rear wheels are locked and won’t turn. Here is my plan of attack and I would appreciate comments.
1. Get wheels turning again. I think the rear drums are rusted. I’m thinking that it makes sense to do a complete brake job all the way around. New pads and calipers front and rear. New hubs and drums front and back. New brake lines going all the way to the Master Cylinder up front. Does this make sense and if so, am I missing any parts that should be replaced? Where do I purchase the parts?
2. Get engine started. Not sure what the problem is but when I tried to start it in 2009, it made a strange noise. Like a starter or solenoid, but different. If I get it started, then I’ll think of a new 350 crate engine maybe. But I want to get it rolling ASAP.

The vehicle has been idle since 2007. Kept indoors for most of that time. But had to put it in the driveway in Virginia for 5 years. Like a fool I put a tarp over the whole vehicle thinking it would keep it from rusting. WRONG! The tarp just held in the moisture and my hood lip now has some rust. Also discovered mold everywhere inside when I took tarp off. I cleaned it well after researching how to remove mold.
It’s now inside in Los Alamos NM, ready to get going again.
I would like comments on what I should do and the order I should do them.
Thanks.
Paul.
 
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Houston, TX
Honestly it sounds like a solid plan of action except I would get the engine running before tackling the brakes. There’s no point in doing all the brake work and then finding out you have an issue with the engine, which might cause significant delays.
 

thorslc1977

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I have to disagree. Always safety stuff first. Like I tell the kids here who I help fix their souped up Hondas. " Brakes and Steering first or I don't help on the engine" . Brakes are easy get, rebuilt Toyota calipers cheap and they will drop right in and work better than almost anything else. City Racer for Master Cylinder, Brake Booster ,wheel cylinders and brake lines. BTW 77 is the best year.

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Unless you're trying to remain purely stock I would consider swapping rears to disk vs rebuilding all the drum stuff - for same or less money you can have better performance and significantly less maintenance over time. See FAQ's for info on doing swap - very easy project!
 
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Messages
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Houston, TX
I have to disagree. Always safety stuff first. Like I tell the kids here who I help fix their souped up Hondas. " Brakes and Steering first or I don't help on the engine" . Brakes are easy get, rebuilt Toyota calipers cheap and they will drop right in and work better than almost anything else. City Racer for Master Cylinder, Brake Booster ,wheel cylinders and brake lines. BTW 77 is the best year.

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I made my statement with the assumption it wouldn’t be driven until the brakes are finished. Therefore, find out what’s wrong with the engine before spending the money on overhauling the brakes. It’s suck to fix the brakes and find out the engine is toast. Either way, no sane person should drive any vehicle with faulty brakes. That goes without saying.
 
Joined
Apr 12, 2019
Messages
28
Location
Los Alamos New Mexico
I have to disagree. Always safety stuff first. Like I tell the kids here who I help fix their souped up Hondas. " Brakes and Steering first or I don't help on the engine" . Brakes are easy get, rebuilt Toyota calipers cheap and they will drop right in and work better than almost anything else. City Racer for Master Cylinder, Brake Booster ,wheel cylinders and brake lines. BTW 77 is the best year.

View attachment 2658424
Thanks. I will check them out. And I agree, safety first. Running comes 2nd.
 

thorslc1977

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Jetlander I think with our mature crowd of owners getting motor running first would probably not be an issue. I would like to think we all have the same attitude you expressed and would have the discipline to not drive a vehicle unless safe. Some of the kids I deal with at work I cannot make the same assumption.

Pmanhart - Try Toyota Parts Deal for OEM parts. ( Calipers)
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Los Alamos New Mexico
Jetlander I think with our mature crowd of owners getting motor running first would probably not be an issue. I would like to think we all have the same attitude you expressed and would have the discipline to not drive a vehicle unless safe. Some of the kids I deal with at work I cannot make the same assumption.

Pmanhart - Try Toyota Parts Deal for OEM parts. ( Calipers)
True enough and I agree. But I’m still doing the brakes first. I’ll get the engine running somehow, or get one that does.
If I do engine first. I will be frustrated because I can’t drive it.
I DO have plans for a restoration, the extent of which has not been decided.
I’m excited and scared to death at the prospect of a full restoration. My knowledge does not even come close to you guys on this forum.
What should be replaced?
What order to do things?
Where to get parts and what after market parts are superior to OEM?
Who to get to do work I can’t do myself?
How to make sure I don’t get ripped off?
All these things scare me.
But first…the f***ing brakes.
Should I replace ALL the brake lines from MC down? What kinds of lines should I get? Stainless?
Do I need to do anything else whilst the brakes are apart?
I toyed with the idea of converting rear drums to disks, but I found it confusing when I saw all the damn vendors and videos on the subject. So I’ll stick with drums. Good enough for now.
Thanks guys.
 

thorslc1977

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Depends on what shape your lines are in. My original ones are still quite good. I still have my rear drums and I keep them adjusted and they work great. I would probably just buy another Master Cylinder since it sat so long. Use the search function to find out how to test your booster ( very simple ) and then work your way down the lines. Get some pics up so we can see what your working with.
 
Joined
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Messages
992
You can sometimes break stuck drums/shoes free by putting the rig in gear and bumping the starter. I've done it on a number of vehicles through the years. No foot on the pedal and make sure you're not going to run into anything if she turns over.
 

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